Insulation removal for access holes for trans bolts
#1
Insulation removal for access holes for trans bolts
I have solid mounts on and I have some bolts I cannot get to and I'm guessing this is the easiest route instead of dropping the k member and doing a balancing act with my *** on the ground. The engine will not lean back to give you room to even see the bolts. I can't even get enough room to get the cooler lines off. So I'm hoping that someone has some pics so that I don't end up with 20 damn holes.
About how much time does it take to take out the dash and get the insulation out? I've got the console out and it just looks like a giant bitch. I see that its going to have to be cut to get around the pedal and steering column. Are there any tips for the dash removal?
About how much time does it take to take out the dash and get the insulation out? I've got the console out and it just looks like a giant bitch. I see that its going to have to be cut to get around the pedal and steering column. Are there any tips for the dash removal?
#4
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Oh, dash removal is a nightmare. +1 for dropping/pulling the engine & trans before removing the dash. If you went the dash removal route, you still have all the HVAC equipment & ducting that will more than likely be in the way. But then again that would give you the opportunity to do some gutting & lightening behind the dash.
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#8
Oh, dash removal is a nightmare. +1 for dropping/pulling the engine & trans before removing the dash. If you went the dash removal route, you still have all the HVAC equipment & ducting that will more than likely be in the way. But then again that would give you the opportunity to do some gutting & lightening behind the dash.
I had to stop on the removal because my bulb blew on my light. I got the dash unbolted, but I can't figure out where to go from there as far as all of the **** that is connected like the gauge cluster and HVAC
#9
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why don't you just loosen the motor mounts from the k member and let it sag down. when i did mine i loosened all 4 bolts on each side but left them all in. this was with Spohn solids
#13
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I had the same problem with spohn solid mounts... I couldn't get the trans in to save my life... I proceeded to beat the hell out of the tunnel around the back of the block to give myself some space... Now it goes in and out without a problem
It seems like the people that design these mounts forget that the stock rubber, or even aftermarket poly mounts, have some slop in them that allow the engine to sit down where it's supposed to... I'd have to say that my solid mounts put the engine at least 3/8'' higher than stock (which was a tight fit anyway).
It seems like the people that design these mounts forget that the stock rubber, or even aftermarket poly mounts, have some slop in them that allow the engine to sit down where it's supposed to... I'd have to say that my solid mounts put the engine at least 3/8'' higher than stock (which was a tight fit anyway).
#14
I had the same problem with spohn solid mounts... I couldn't get the trans in to save my life... I proceeded to beat the hell out of the tunnel around the back of the block to give myself some space... Now it goes in and out without a problem
It seems like the people that design these mounts forget that the stock rubber, or even aftermarket poly mounts, have some slop in them that allow the engine to sit down where it's supposed to... I'd have to say that my solid mounts put the engine at least 3/8'' higher than stock (which was a tight fit anyway).
It seems like the people that design these mounts forget that the stock rubber, or even aftermarket poly mounts, have some slop in them that allow the engine to sit down where it's supposed to... I'd have to say that my solid mounts put the engine at least 3/8'' higher than stock (which was a tight fit anyway).
#15
I just thought about that again. You would have to loosen the k member bolts to have anything move. Unbolting the motormount bolts would only allow you to raise it and that is not what I need, unless it tilts. But there isn't much room for it to tilt before it hits the firewall.
#16
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If your looking for a an excellent write up on getting the dash out, here is the best one around https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
#17
If your looking for a an excellent write up on getting the dash out, here is the best one around https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html
#18
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Sorry I didn't get my point across... What I was trying to say was drop the whole cradle to get it out this time, and then beat the hell out of the tunnel.. Sounds like you're already pretty deep into the dash removal though... Its not too bad, but I hope not to have to pull the dash again soon.
#20
Sorry I didn't get my point across... What I was trying to say was drop the whole cradle to get it out this time, and then beat the hell out of the tunnel.. Sounds like you're already pretty deep into the dash removal though... Its not too bad, but I hope not to have to pull the dash again soon.