Need recommendations for a gear / tire setup
03-24-2010, 02:46 PM
#1
Need recommendations for a gear / tire setup I want to buy the right gear / tire setup the first time so I need some advice here. M6 daily driven street car,slp suspension right now (slp bilstiens and springs). I ordered a MWC 9" with long torque arm but I have not ordered a set of gears yet. Also I will be running the new race star wheels 15x10 with 7.5" back spacing. My car peaks power around 6100 rpm and I'm not sure if I should go 4.11's with a M&H 26/11.5-15 cheater slick (bias ply) or should I run a 3.90 gear?
I don't want to cut my bumper or beat up my car so I don't think a 28" tire will work? So what would you guys recommend for the best setup of tire / gear. 4.11 with 27" tires or would a 3.90 gear with 26" be a better setup? According to the gear calculator a 4.11's with a 26" will turn 6400 rpm @ 120 mph. I plan to trap around 120 but the 4.11 / 26" leaves me for no room to grow (even a 100 shot would over rev). I don't have nitrous right now but you never know. Here is my dyno chart, I should be around 430 rwhp now since I added a ported fast 85mm intake and an underdrive pulley.
Thanks guys
I don't want to cut my bumper or beat up my car so I don't think a 28" tire will work? So what would you guys recommend for the best setup of tire / gear. 4.11 with 27" tires or would a 3.90 gear with 26" be a better setup? According to the gear calculator a 4.11's with a 26" will turn 6400 rpm @ 120 mph. I plan to trap around 120 but the 4.11 / 26" leaves me for no room to grow (even a 100 shot would over rev). I don't have nitrous right now but you never know. Here is my dyno chart, I should be around 430 rwhp now since I added a ported fast 85mm intake and an underdrive pulley.
Thanks guys
03-24-2010, 02:58 PM
#2
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Check my sig. for my times..I'm running a MWC 9" with 4.11 gears and a 28x11.5x15 ET Street bias ply cheater slick, the tire measures out at 27.6" in dia. I did have to beat the inner wheel well in a little but really not a big deal.
03-25-2010, 07:13 AM
#6
Would I cut a better 60' with a 26x11.5-15 M&H cheater slick with a 10" tread width or a 27x10.50-15LT ET street which is actually an 8.9" tread width using 4.11 gears. I want to be able to launch this from a 6000 rpm clutch dump. 3700 lb race weight.
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03-26-2010, 06:24 PM
#8
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The more sidewall you have the better chance you will put all of your power to the ground without sacrificing traction. I ran 28x10-15 Hoosier slicks with absolutely no modifications to the car and a 4.10 gear in my 7.5" 10bolt and cut 1.47-1.49 60's all last season. Go ahead and go with the 28's now or you'll wish you did (thats how I felt when I ran 26's before I went to 28's).
03-31-2010, 06:32 AM
#9
So 4.10's and a 28" tire are the best setup to go with? I'm not sure how you fit 28" tires on your car with no modifications, but my car is lowered (came with slp level 2 suspension). No one has a particular tire recommendation? Keep in mind I will be running stock lower control arms for a while. Thanks
03-31-2010, 06:37 AM
#10
If you want to run big, you need to set the car up properly, the 28" tall tire and 4.10 gears is a VERY good set up. Spend some $$ on LCA's and at least 10 way adj shocks and get the car un-lowered.
With the M6 Trans in there, you REALLY need to get your stuff together or expect to run sub par times at best.
With the M6 Trans in there, you REALLY need to get your stuff together or expect to run sub par times at best.
03-31-2010, 07:34 AM
#11
If you want to run big, you need to set the car up properly, the 28" tall tire and 4.10 gears is a VERY good set up. Spend some $$ on LCA's and at least 10 way adj shocks and get the car un-lowered.
With the M6 Trans in there, you REALLY need to get your stuff together or expect to run sub par times at best.
With the M6 Trans in there, you REALLY need to get your stuff together or expect to run sub par times at best.
03-31-2010, 07:48 AM
#12
Your ripe to rip your TQ arm mount or the whole TQ arm apart when hitting the car that hard w/ full weight.
As for tires run 2 sets, one for street and one for track. Depending on what width the tire is and back spacing, you can run a 28" with out much modification. A Adjustible LCA would def be required for that.
Sidewall flex and height as well as contact patch are critical to getting the car hit good.
My car is cam only and heavy but will get a shot soon. I did well on 26" tall ET Drags BUT I expect with the TQ spike of a 150 shot, more tire will be needed.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html
Due to $$$ Issues I have finally got all the parts except the Nitrous and my own set of tire and slicks so When I get there is when I get there but the car will be set up properly.
As for tires run 2 sets, one for street and one for track. Depending on what width the tire is and back spacing, you can run a 28" with out much modification. A Adjustible LCA would def be required for that.
Sidewall flex and height as well as contact patch are critical to getting the car hit good.
My car is cam only and heavy but will get a shot soon. I did well on 26" tall ET Drags BUT I expect with the TQ spike of a 150 shot, more tire will be needed.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html
Due to $$$ Issues I have finally got all the parts except the Nitrous and my own set of tire and slicks so When I get there is when I get there but the car will be set up properly.
03-31-2010, 08:08 AM
#13
It's a chromoly long torque arm that comes with a new transmission crossmember brace, which it mounts to with multiple adjustment holes. It's all MWC 9" stuff, I highly doubt it's going anywhere 
Of course, I will have a designated set of rims for my drag tires, as stated in my original post. I wish there were more options for 27" tires!
Of course, I will have a designated set of rims for my drag tires, as stated in my original post. I wish there were more options for 27" tires!
03-31-2010, 11:05 AM
#14
Unfortunately you cannot have your cake and eat it. Run a 26" tall slick and see where it lands you. I did see the M&H tire but I do not know how good their compounds are.
UNLESS your doing Nitrous this year, just get a 26" ET drag with the correct width to match the rim is more then you need.
Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slick
26.0'' x 10.0'' - 15''
L8 Compound Which is Middle of the road
My worry like yours is that your not going to go through them quickly and what your going to have to do is see how they work on Nitrous, if they work good, then your done. Run the tire. IF you spinning badly, work on some suspension adj, no good? The move up on tire and sell the 26" to help off set the cost on a larger tire.
UNLESS your doing Nitrous this year, just get a 26" ET drag with the correct width to match the rim is more then you need.
Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slick
26.0'' x 10.0'' - 15''
L8 Compound Which is Middle of the road
My worry like yours is that your not going to go through them quickly and what your going to have to do is see how they work on Nitrous, if they work good, then your done. Run the tire. IF you spinning badly, work on some suspension adj, no good? The move up on tire and sell the 26" to help off set the cost on a larger tire.
03-31-2010, 11:11 AM
#15
M/t has as 28x9 et drag, which is about 27.3 inches tall.. that is a good compromise if you refuse to do what's needed to get a 28 inch tire in the car. That, or a hoosier 27x11.5 qtp is probably about your best bets when it comes to tires that are under the 28 inch height, but bigger then the 26 inch slicks that are available.
Granted, a set of 26x10.5S et drags (S for stiff sidewall) will get you alot farther then you think, but the 27 inch tires I listed will probably work better, being they have more sidewall. Stick cars need the sidewall, well99% of them do, to really work good. That's why you don't see alot of guys with stick cars running as good on radials as you do with guys that have auto cars, the radial doesn't like the shock of a stick car.
Granted, a set of 26x10.5S et drags (S for stiff sidewall) will get you alot farther then you think, but the 27 inch tires I listed will probably work better, being they have more sidewall. Stick cars need the sidewall, well99% of them do, to really work good. That's why you don't see alot of guys with stick cars running as good on radials as you do with guys that have auto cars, the radial doesn't like the shock of a stick car.
03-31-2010, 11:56 AM
#16
Oh, did you upgrade the wheel studs to make them longer then stock and of the quality/tensile strength of a ARP?
03-31-2010, 03:31 PM
#17
The rear is coming with 1/2" x 3" long wheel studs and I will be using the proper open ended lugs at the track. I want the car to run the best N/A for now, I do not even have nitrous but I would like a little more mph than a 26" tall tire will provide for future upgrades. A 27" tire sounds perfect to me, so the best DOT 27" tire you are recommending is the Hoosier QTP 27x11.5? Does anyone know approximately how much a 26" tire will grow at 120 mph? If the tire grows 1" at the top end that would help out quite a bit. Thanks for all the help! Just to verify, everyone agrees that 4.11 gears will be the way to go?
03-31-2010, 07:29 PM
#19
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I have hoosier 27x11.5s and they clear just fine. I was in the same boat with cutting up the car. I would say get adjustable poly poly lcas, and relo brackets. (poly poly for street car. )
