Yes you can put a HVAC plate in with the engine in place
06-12-2010, 06:20 PM
#1
Yes you can put a HVAC plate in with the engine in place I know there are both tons of writeups on HVAC blockoff plates, and how to unbolt the HVAC box and take it out. But there were none on if it could be done from the engine bay with the motor STILL IN the car. So I tried it.
The final answer is yes, you can do it from the engine bay without pulling too much. I'm just throwing this out for future search users
I already had all the AC stuff out of the car.
I pulled the following:
Strut tower brace
Coil pack rail w/wires
PCM (moved harness out of the way)
Heater core hoses
Then I demo'd the box and cut the airflow path into it so it didn't deadhead.
I didn't get too exotic here, to clean up the cuts, I used 100mph tape
Initially the plate wouldn't fit. But I got all the extra clearance I needed by pulling the valve cover. Plate dropped right in after that. I drilled/cut holes for the heater core hoses and that little black air tube for the HVAC. Sealed with silicone caulk and put it all back together.
I can see my back plugs now!!
Thanks and happy searching
The final answer is yes, you can do it from the engine bay without pulling too much. I'm just throwing this out for future search users
I already had all the AC stuff out of the car.
I pulled the following:
Strut tower brace
Coil pack rail w/wires
PCM (moved harness out of the way)
Heater core hoses
Then I demo'd the box and cut the airflow path into it so it didn't deadhead.
I didn't get too exotic here, to clean up the cuts, I used 100mph tape
Initially the plate wouldn't fit. But I got all the extra clearance I needed by pulling the valve cover. Plate dropped right in after that. I drilled/cut holes for the heater core hoses and that little black air tube for the HVAC. Sealed with silicone caulk and put it all back together.
I can see my back plugs now!!
Thanks and happy searching
Last edited by V-10 Killer; 06-16-2010 at 10:26 AM. Reason: added pix
06-13-2010, 06:52 PM
#7
Yep, Michigan is damn near a rainforest most of the time around here when humidity's concerned so i wanted to make sure I kept the defroster. I couldn't see pulling 10# of stuff, then bolting back in a $200 Mojave heater and adding 10# back in...
So I cut a airflow path like shown in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/12181044-post7.html
Looks pretty much the same as mine now, but I added an extra hole to run the black heater airline thru.
So I cut a airflow path like shown in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/12181044-post7.html
Looks pretty much the same as mine now, but I added an extra hole to run the black heater airline thru.
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06-14-2010, 02:13 AM
#9
I was moving slow and meticulous, and had to make about 8 trips for parts/powdercoating...
I think it could be done in 3-4 hours. Some parts of it can be a real headache, like pulling those hose spring clamps GM uses, way back by the firewall.
Believe me, if you have to do plug checks/changes a lot or just want to clean up the bay, it's really worth it in the end. Just make sure you never intend to put the AC back in LOL. There's some nice detailed writeups on this board, I even pulled the bracket that held the AC accumulator tank. Not much to scratch my arms on now. 1 Torx bolt and it's out. I'll snap some pics in the next day or two when I get a day off work.
I think it could be done in 3-4 hours. Some parts of it can be a real headache, like pulling those hose spring clamps GM uses, way back by the firewall.
Believe me, if you have to do plug checks/changes a lot or just want to clean up the bay, it's really worth it in the end. Just make sure you never intend to put the AC back in LOL. There's some nice detailed writeups on this board, I even pulled the bracket that held the AC accumulator tank. Not much to scratch my arms on now. 1 Torx bolt and it's out. I'll snap some pics in the next day or two when I get a day off work.
06-16-2010, 09:43 AM
#11
I don't know if anyone has tried to put the plate in from the inside and keep the heater core side of the heater box intact. Moving the box back 1/8" might mess with bolt-up tolerances under the dash. If you remove the whole thing, yes, many people have pulled their dash and gutted the whole hvac system and installed from the inside.
06-16-2010, 10:24 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Fireball
Each car in competition must be equipped with a minimum .032-
inch aluminum or .024-inch steel firewall, extending from side to
side of the body and from the top of the engine compartment’s
upper seal (hood, cowl, or deck) to the bottom of the floor and/or
bellypan.
inch aluminum or .024-inch steel firewall, extending from side to
side of the body and from the top of the engine compartment’s
upper seal (hood, cowl, or deck) to the bottom of the floor and/or
bellypan.
Also, pics added in first post
