Critic my M6 launch
Critic my M6 launch It is the first car in the vid. I know the car sits like bigfoot and it was a terribly burnout. It was the first run with the hoosiers and didnt drop it high enough and it bog. The best 60ft I got that day was a 1.64 but this run was a 1.78. Car has Full MWC rear and supension with 4.56 but stock shocks. Car doesnt seem to transfer very well this launch is at 6k off the 2 step with 15lbs of air in the tires. Next run was with 13.5 psi and 60ft better with the 1.64 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNhD6...re=recentftter.
I cannot see the vid but I am also willing to wager your bump stops or the body is hitting the rear. IF you can inspect the axle tubes, if they are dirty then you would see a "clean" spot where the stops hit. IF you have stops, get some silver lipstick and paint the stop and at the next run, you should see some transfer onto the axle tube.
M6 cars NEED adjustible shocks, most likely D/A shocks. I am going to see how far I can go on Singles, I may get a 2 step to compensate but we will see.
M6 cars NEED adjustible shocks, most likely D/A shocks. I am going to see how far I can go on Singles, I may get a 2 step to compensate but we will see.
I cannot see the vid but I am also willing to wager your bump stops or the body is hitting the rear. IF you can inspect the axle tubes, if they are dirty then you would see a "clean" spot where the stops hit. IF you have stops, get some silver lipstick and paint the stop and at the next run, you should see some transfer onto the axle tube.
M6 cars NEED adjustible shocks, most likely D/A shocks. I am going to see how far I can go on Singles, I may get a 2 step to compensate but we will see.
M6 cars NEED adjustible shocks, most likely D/A shocks. I am going to see how far I can go on Singles, I may get a 2 step to compensate but we will see.
That too, I sometime forget and think thats a given too lol. Yes, LINELOCK is one of the MOST important tools in M6 Racing.
I dusted my first Tru Trac due to not having line lock and the track not putting down enough water.
I dusted my first Tru Trac due to not having line lock and the track not putting down enough water.
Line lock will be comeing soon no doubt about that. The bump stops are cut out and probly a good six inchs above bump stop is cut out but will still inspected for it hitting, The rear is narrowed 2 1/2 on each side with a 5.5 Back space wheel so it is a half inch tucked. So cut a good amount of the stop out so would have enough clearance for the tires. Thanks for the reply so far. One thing is the front sway bar is still installed which is comeing off this weekend, will it make that huge of a differance?
Line lock will be comeing soon no doubt about that. The bump stops are cut out and probly a good six inchs above bump stop is cut out but will still inspected for it hitting, The rear is narrowed 2 1/2 on each side with a 5.5 Back space wheel so it is a half inch tucked. So cut a good amount of the stop out so would have enough clearance for the tires. Thanks for the reply so far. One thing is the front sway bar is still installed which is comeing off this weekend, will it make that huge of a differance?
Also yes, it makes a tremendous different for the 1/4 mi, you will notice a handling diff BUT when a true rear drag bar goes in, the car feels like it has a Front sway again.
So for the cost of a SLP line lock, some wire, and time installing the line lock and removing the front sway, you may see a tremendous different in weight transference and the ability to safely heat the tires.
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Later that day I dump it higher for the burnout and was decent still need a linelock but had best of a 1.64 60ft so it got better but I think it can get better from there. The rim did slip inside the tire and need to address that issue isnt there a adhesive to help with that before i have to screw the tires? Would really like to get in the 1.5 60s What if i put the lca one hole up so it dont hit the tires as hard?
Thanks the wheels are Billet specialties street lites. Rear is narrowed and have a 5.5 backspacing. Next time out will probly be at the shootout. will see what happends
put 12psi in them and do a good burn out and they will hook. i race at that track all the time and they hook. im a m6 procharged car launching hard. stock shocks and springs. if that doesnt work i would go with a et street not radial.
Hand over the keys and let me take 'er down. 
I'd just start with a better burnout and go from there. If you don't get the line lock installed in time, you can always jump on the brakes (not the best choice but it works). I'd definitely get some more passes in before the shootout to try out different things.
On a side note, what clutch are you running? My clutch is on its way out so I'll be needing one in the near future. It doesn't like my 4k launches.
I'd just start with a better burnout and go from there. If you don't get the line lock installed in time, you can always jump on the brakes (not the best choice but it works). I'd definitely get some more passes in before the shootout to try out different things.
On a side note, what clutch are you running? My clutch is on its way out so I'll be needing one in the near future. It doesn't like my 4k launches.
No line lock here haha i am to cheap haha. But better burn out is a big start. Then 13 to 14 psi in the tires is good. also you dont just want to dump the clutch. You want to let it out fast and controled this way you dont shock the tire as much.
^^^I was going to mention slipping it, since thats what works well for me, but I am on street tires and not launch as hard so I didn't want to speak of which I do not know. Definitely worth a shot. Gateway has held some fast cars this year.
And of course, dry the tires off before lining up
Haha I know the burnout blew ***** and feel like a tard 
And WSsick that is the stock clutch and do not know why it didnt fly apart, good thing it didnt since i drove it there. I did just dump it and next time will Dump/slip it and give that a try. Waiting on selling a part so i can buy a Monster and tick MC. Thanks for the help and anymore info let me know. Hell I am running at the shootout for 12.0 maybe i just do more weak burnouts and be competive, but still probly wouldnt be good enough. 
And WSsick that is the stock clutch and do not know why it didnt fly apart, good thing it didnt since i drove it there. I did just dump it and next time will Dump/slip it and give that a try. Waiting on selling a part so i can buy a Monster and tick MC. Thanks for the help and anymore info let me know. Hell I am running at the shootout for 12.0 maybe i just do more weak burnouts and be competive, but still probly wouldnt be good enough. 
I dont have a line lock or bias ply tires...and dont really need eather lol...Whats your pinion angle?? Just wondering! Front sway bar is killing you..I took mine off the second day I owned my car and back then I didnt have any plans for drag racing..but on the street I wanted more weight tansfer..
Do you have a rear sway bar? A stock one would be better than non if not. I put a UMI Drag Bar on mine and the car drives like a dream. Tires dont rub, car corners pretty good for having a spool. One thing to keep in mind..Dont change a lot each pass. This is why 6 speeds are hard for people..Ohh **** I spun off of a 6000 drop..lets back the 2 step off and change air pressure and front and rear shock settings..NO..One thing at a time. Get videos and go off of those. I watch mine all the time when I have nothing to do. Also I take notes on teh back of my slip everything:
Example..
Launch Rpms: 6200
Front Shocks: Left 2 Right 2
Rear Shocks: Left 6 Right 6
Tire Pressure: Left 12 Right 13 (before burn out)
And just keep track from pass to pass and see what works..
I was cutting low low 1.7s on Radials, Factory Shocks, and no rear sway bar..I cant wait to get back to the track now with radials. The Bias Plys are scary and washy..I dont like um and I drive my car a lot so a Hoosier Radial works great for me!! Car 60s great with them but anything past 1/8 I dont like them.
Do you have a rear sway bar? A stock one would be better than non if not. I put a UMI Drag Bar on mine and the car drives like a dream. Tires dont rub, car corners pretty good for having a spool. One thing to keep in mind..Dont change a lot each pass. This is why 6 speeds are hard for people..Ohh **** I spun off of a 6000 drop..lets back the 2 step off and change air pressure and front and rear shock settings..NO..One thing at a time. Get videos and go off of those. I watch mine all the time when I have nothing to do. Also I take notes on teh back of my slip everything:
Example..
Launch Rpms: 6200
Front Shocks: Left 2 Right 2
Rear Shocks: Left 6 Right 6
Tire Pressure: Left 12 Right 13 (before burn out)
And just keep track from pass to pass and see what works..
I was cutting low low 1.7s on Radials, Factory Shocks, and no rear sway bar..I cant wait to get back to the track now with radials. The Bias Plys are scary and washy..I dont like um and I drive my car a lot so a Hoosier Radial works great for me!! Car 60s great with them but anything past 1/8 I dont like them.
Pinion angle if i remember was -1.5 and have a MWC drag bar my best was a 1.64. I guess the front sway bar removal helps alot. really would like some where in the 1.5s. And stop the rims spinning in the tire.