Broke EF

I can offer no help, but it sounded great!!! Way more hardcore sounding than our car, plus you are having suspension tuning problems.... sounds like a race car to me. I say we go heads up

Sean

P.S. We had good luck with the MT DR's with the 6-speed way back when, but our set up is much different than yours. It should be a beast when you get it all dialed in though.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

lol I got nothng for your single digit monster....at least wait until I can get this thing figured out and spray the rods out.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

heres at 12psi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDhXQjpl6TE

Bitemark46

That tire shake isn't due to tire pressure. The tire is not being drove into the pavement as hard as it needs be. I think its either pinion angle or your lower control arm needs to be moved and/or your torque arm. There are tons of guys running QTP's with much lower psi. But its not the tire. I think its the front springs need to be softer.

Here is a old vid of my car. This was when I used to run 10psi hot. You can see on the hit the rim almost hits the ground. I don't think with a 1.74 60' your crushing the sidewall that hard with that much spin. I went 1.55 on this pass. I don't think you're coming close to the ground. There are other issues than need to be address. Have you ever plotted your suspension?

Not trying to start a argument, just trying to help a guy out on the net. I love suspension tuning.

I was neck and neck with this auto 408 s10 until the 330' lol.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

lol I hate suspension tuning as much as wiring. You do see the rear getting all messed up though right? I think its in the front shock settings. I appreciate any advice.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Oh btw those are NA passes I have a 150shot in the car just want to sort out the car NA then hit it.

Bitemark46

Once you get it sorted out N/A it'll do 2 things on the bottle... put you back to square 1.....or put you back on the bumper.

I did see the rear get massive wheel hop. Do me a favor. Measure the fender height of the front fender to the ground with a driver in the car then jack the front up until the struts are maxed out...Should be just before the tire is off the ground. Measure the fender to the ground again. Take the 2nd measurement and subtract the first from it.

-Mark

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Scary....lol ill try and get ya some numbers when I get out of work tomorrow.
All i know is my car wasnt right.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I very much concour. When dialing in a car, changing suspension pieces, or adding 50-150 hit of nitrous will do exactly that. Either the car works too well or not at all.

I did see the first vid last night and you can see the spinning. IMO still has to do with shocks, and how much heat the tires have vs prep. Since a auto will be going in, your probably going to have to make sure your gearing and stall is set up for the nitrous hit and if the trans does not have it, install a Trans Brake.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you are swapping to an auto, then do yourself a favor and dont' even bother running it again, leave everything in good working order so you can sell it and not fix it to sell it...


If you are determined to get the car down the track with the stick, I thinka double adjustable rear shock is going to be your friend/make things alot easier. What I see is the front is too soft, I'd tighten the front up 2 or 3 clicks first and try that. That comp 50/50 shock, I've seen auto cars work with them, but not a stick car... right now I'm pointing at that as the problem.

The 14 lbs in the tires, I'd be runnign them at abotu 12 too, 14 is getting you the spin, first run if you had the shocks up a couple clicks and left at 6000 I bet it would have been alot better....

An auto, and a 150 shot are going to change everything so much everything you are doing now to get the car to work won't mean a whole lot once you do those 2 changes.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Im pretty determined to get the car where it was or better then it did b4 the suspension changes with the T56. Then do the A3 swap. Im hoping some more seat time and tuning it will get there b4 the end of the yr. I picked up the tires this morn, putting them on tonight, going to reset the front shocks to 2 ext instead of 0 and see what happens.

The trans does not have a t-brake but I can use the 2 step still as long as its set to the point just b4 it pushes through the brakes correct??

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

To me in the second video the car is transferring the weight too quickly. You need stiffer compression on the rear shocks to slow the hit and more rebound to keep the car from bouncing and unloading. This is why a DA shock is your friend for a stick car. The best pass on the 27's is probably due more to the effectively lower gear ratio, which allowed the car to pull though the bog better at the same launch RPM. I also agree that you are going to fight the radial tire until you make the TH350 swap. Since the car will do well without a DA shock with the auto it doesn't pay you to spend the money on them. But if you are determined to get the car to work on the radial with the stick, then order them before you go back to the track.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I launched the 27s at 4500 and the 28s at 5000. Reason I stepped up to the 28s is the nitrous kit. I figured Id lose some MPH NA but would prob ET better.

Eventually I want a single digit car so Ill prob upgrade the shocks either way.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Anyone think a strange single adjustable rear would be a better rear shock than the comps?? I forgot how pricey the DAs are. lol

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Rear shocks are one place you don't want to cheap out.... save until you can get the good ones.

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

The single adj's will be good for an auto at your current level, though it's best to look at your future goals as well. It looks like a bunch of extra money for the double's but it will be more expensive if you buy the singles and need the adjustment later.

This is where I am at with my pile. I bought the cheapest parts I could; mild steel/non adj suspension parts, mild steel roll bar, single adj shocks, etc. Now I'm at the point of cutting stuff off of the car to get the weight down and I'm carrying 30-40lbs that could have been avoided had I spent the money on chromemoly. The total amount extra it would have cost me over time pails in comparison to the expense of buying everything over. Food for thought...

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Damn I knew that would be the answer. Ill prob order some Strange DA shocks later today or tomorrow. Anyone want to buy some comp 3 ways and 28" QTPs

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

I say get some good double adjustables on the rear. AFCO or Strange will work. That, with a little tech advise on the settings, will have that car workin like a dream.

I can get you into a set of AFCO double adjustable rear shocks for around $600 plus $40 for the rear shock brackets. If you buy through us, you'll get the Madman valving and we'll tell you where to set the shocks AND how to adjust them depending on how the car reacts. Give me a call if you're interested. Our number is 225-673-3533.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

lol I was just on your site. I will definitly be buying from from you guys. Does Madman only do the valving on Afcos? I have strange fronts and was kinda wanting to keep all 4 corners the same.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, we can only get our valving on the AFCO shocks. I understand wanting to keep everything the same on all 4 corners, but you might want the AFCO's on the rear, anyway. They have alot more in the way of adjustment. As you know, you have 12 clicks per **** on the Strange DA's, but with the AFCO's you have 42 clicks on the top and 24 clicks on the bottom.

And, just a bug for your ear, I can get you a discount if you buy all 4 shocks, with springs.