mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

We now offer LS1 header flanges in mild steel or stainless. They're available for 1.875" up to 2.125" tubing. This is the perfect product for anyone that's going to take on building custom headers. Below is a link the flanges in our online catalog:


http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=209

Call us if you have any questions or to place your orders!

225-673-3533

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

About time someone finally come out with a flange like that Now all the guys with tall deck motor's can actually build a header that will fit the car and run a primary as big as what's needed for a 454+ CI motor.

Good work guys!

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Great product, now that would be ideal if they had a LT1 set up as well. That Double exhaust for #3 and #5 cyl is a little bonkers and I could never get a real good seal, no matter what gasket, how clean the surface was, nor what order I tightened it.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

Thanks JL! We hope to use these soon so I can get some pictures of some custom headers we do while utilizing our new flanges. When that time comes, I'll be uploading some pics.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

What size tubes are you wanting to use? I might have something available for the LT1 boys as well. Shoot me a PM or call me. I'll check on that today.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Well I used to have a LT1 but what your doing is what has been needed for years. I used to use Jet-Hot Headers which for the LT1 I recall was a Hooker Header with 1-5/8" Primary and 3" (possibly 2-1/2" collector). Mated to a LT1 ported exhaust casting.

Using Multi layer dead soft aluminum, fel-pro fiber type, or even copper never make any real difference. I did find ML DS Aluminum the most forgiving but once the flange warped it was game over and that maybe a huge oppporunity but again the motor was made for so few many years its tough to decide to design and produce such a piece.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You needed to surface the header flange before installing them, that's why they leaked. No gasket will seal if the flange isn't flat. If you had painted the surface, and put a piece of sandpaper on a flat block of steel and sanded the flange where it mounts to the head you'd have seen how un-flat it really was, which is why it didn't seal.

That's one of those things I've done with every set of headers I've ever had... block them and make sure they're flat before ever installing them. Makes a HUGE difference in how well, or how poorly they seal up.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

If you want it do right, go by a machine shop with a blanchard grinder or large belt surfacer.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Large belt surfacer is what I used... the block is just an example of how you can check them.

Regardless... it needs to be done. Why the header companies don't just hit all of them once they're finished with the manufacturing process I'll never understand, I've never seen a header that didn't need it.