1995 Firebird 4.8L Street/Strip Turbo Project
10-31-2013, 04:03 PM
#221
Thank you! I appreciate your kind words! I'm really gunning for this car being under its own power next Summer. Once it's road-worthy, it'll get another $98 Paint Job and removal of all the racing decals....hood 'bird and flames will remain.
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1) When you stop and think about it, there is a lot of stuff holding the rear end in the car. Torque arm, lower control arms, drag shocks, panhard bar & drag bar all have to be unbolted to drop it. The old wiring will be pulled and the braided fuel lines put into place once the rear end is out of the car.
2) Dropped and ready to remove. I am reusing the drum brakes, so those come off before the rest goes to Newco Metals. The LPW diff girdle even went because it wasn't nice enough to resell.
3) I hate the smell of gear oil, and it always seems to linger in the air when draining it. Had to drain it for access to the C-clips on the 10 bolt axles. Brake drums won't come off without pulling the axles.
4) Having experience with several 10 bolts (no bad experience as one might expect), the 12 bolt required me to do a little research. No C-clips meant I had to figure out how the axles come out. Once I did, I couldn't believe how easy it was! Loosening the bolts on the backing plates allows the axles to pull right out. Mine required just a little help from a pry bar, but nothing hardcore.
5) Time to weld on the BMR Fabrication Drag Bar Mounts. The only non-UMI Performance suspension piece that I have put on the car as a drag bar wasn't yet offered by them at the time of install.
6 & 7) Drag bar mounts finish-welded.
8-10) UMI Performance LCA Relocation brackets. This is my second experience with installing these, so I was prepared for what to expect. Very straight-forward install with no problems at all. I chose to weld mine on. As photo #8 shows, it's always best to remove any paint where you intend to weld for better penetration.
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1) When you stop and think about it, there is a lot of stuff holding the rear end in the car. Torque arm, lower control arms, drag shocks, panhard bar & drag bar all have to be unbolted to drop it. The old wiring will be pulled and the braided fuel lines put into place once the rear end is out of the car.
2) Dropped and ready to remove. I am reusing the drum brakes, so those come off before the rest goes to Newco Metals. The LPW diff girdle even went because it wasn't nice enough to resell.
3) I hate the smell of gear oil, and it always seems to linger in the air when draining it. Had to drain it for access to the C-clips on the 10 bolt axles. Brake drums won't come off without pulling the axles.
4) Having experience with several 10 bolts (no bad experience as one might expect), the 12 bolt required me to do a little research. No C-clips meant I had to figure out how the axles come out. Once I did, I couldn't believe how easy it was! Loosening the bolts on the backing plates allows the axles to pull right out. Mine required just a little help from a pry bar, but nothing hardcore.
5) Time to weld on the BMR Fabrication Drag Bar Mounts. The only non-UMI Performance suspension piece that I have put on the car as a drag bar wasn't yet offered by them at the time of install.
6 & 7) Drag bar mounts finish-welded.
8-10) UMI Performance LCA Relocation brackets. This is my second experience with installing these, so I was prepared for what to expect. Very straight-forward install with no problems at all. I chose to weld mine on. As photo #8 shows, it's always best to remove any paint where you intend to weld for better penetration.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 10-31-2013 at 04:18 PM.
10-31-2013, 04:05 PM
#222
Happy Halloween to those who celebrate! As for me, I try to stay pretty still on Halloween. My right knee broke on Halloween when I was 12 years old back in 1986.
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1 & 2) Continuation of the LCA relocation bracket welding photos.
3) If you look in photo #2, you'll see the one spring support is only supported by two gussets. I didn't think that looked sturdy-enough, so I welded a piece of steel in there to add support.
4 & 5) I took the axles, backing plates & new bearings to a local shop for installation. He cut the old bearings off and pressed on the new ones for me after putting the drum brakes on the axle shafts. $40.00 for all!
6) I'm sure some will scoff at the idea of using drum brakes on the build, but it stays in my budget theme for the build. Besides, there aren't any space headaches associated with them when using Weld Pro Stars unlike factory disk brakes.
6) Make sure you've got plenty of time and feel very patient when it comes time to bolt the brakes back onto the housing. Not nearly as much finger room with the drum brakes as there was with the disk brake backing plates.
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1 & 2) Continuation of the LCA relocation bracket welding photos.
3) If you look in photo #2, you'll see the one spring support is only supported by two gussets. I didn't think that looked sturdy-enough, so I welded a piece of steel in there to add support.
4 & 5) I took the axles, backing plates & new bearings to a local shop for installation. He cut the old bearings off and pressed on the new ones for me after putting the drum brakes on the axle shafts. $40.00 for all!
6) I'm sure some will scoff at the idea of using drum brakes on the build, but it stays in my budget theme for the build. Besides, there aren't any space headaches associated with them when using Weld Pro Stars unlike factory disk brakes.
6) Make sure you've got plenty of time and feel very patient when it comes time to bolt the brakes back onto the housing. Not nearly as much finger room with the drum brakes as there was with the disk brake backing plates.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 10-31-2013 at 04:26 PM.
11-03-2013, 06:30 PM
#223
1 & 2) These BMR Drag Bar body mount brackets were originally welded on several years ago with the flux core welder that I owned at that time. I went back in and rewelded them with my MIG welder. The welds aren't pretty, but they'll hold.
3) Cleaned the gear oil from the driveshaft tunnel the best I could.
4) Patterns I made to create pieces to plate the factory panhard bar body mount.
5) Falling back has really cut me close on daylight when I'm working the day shift (I work a swing shift). I have about one hour to work outside once I get home.
6-9) Welded up and ready for a little love from the flap wheel in a few spots.
10) Air filter mounted to the fuel tank vent tube port underneath the car.
3) Cleaned the gear oil from the driveshaft tunnel the best I could.
4) Patterns I made to create pieces to plate the factory panhard bar body mount.
5) Falling back has really cut me close on daylight when I'm working the day shift (I work a swing shift). I have about one hour to work outside once I get home.
6-9) Welded up and ready for a little love from the flap wheel in a few spots.
10) Air filter mounted to the fuel tank vent tube port underneath the car.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 11-03-2013 at 06:38 PM.
02-19-2014, 03:58 PM
#228
Garage edition in the next couple years.I recently purchased a 1967 car trailer off of Craigslist, and that has kept me busy fabbing & buying parts to redo it (thumbnail #2). It's a solid trailer & pulls great. I'll have around $1,000 into it when it's all said and done, and it'll be practically new again.
-----------March 20, 2014 Update--------------------------------------------------------
3) Clocked the turbo outlet to a new position than how it arrived.
4 & 5) Turbo loosely mounted onto lower hot-side piping.
6) Down pipe fabrication. Recycling one of the exhaust cutouts from my previous setup. I have it positioned so that the electric cutout can be installed.
7) Removal of the lower splash guard that I'd reused from the original '95 Firebird bumper cover. The driver's-side will be removed as well. The intercooler and downpipe piping will run right in the same spot where that these splash guards once lived. I am intent on keeping the wheel well inner fenders, so I will probably need to fabricate some support brackets for them at some point in the future.
9) The space between the red marks received a little clearancing from the Dremel. Once I wrap the downpipe, I may need to trim more off.
-----January 2016----
11) The trailer shown in thumbnail #2 as it looks now. New tires, lights, wiring, paint, dovetailed end and cleaned up/removed brackets.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 01-13-2016 at 05:01 PM.
03-20-2014, 08:34 PM
#229
1) Race muffler on the end of the downpipe. I've read numerous times that the turbo will quiet the engine enough that you don't have to run a muffler. If it's too quiet with the muffler, I will take it off. UPDATE: I'm running the car without a muffler now. I damaged the exhaust in a bizarre garage crash, so when I fabricated a new pipe the muffler was
left off.
2 & 3) Dremel-tooled the exit for the downpipe in the front bumper cover.
4) Had an emotional moment today. I lost my Dad in January, and today I opened the last spool of welding wire that he'd bought me as a Christmas gift. I know he'd want me to use it.
6-8) Long or short? That was my question for the downpipe portion that exits the bumper cover. I left it alone so that I could think on it. It only took me one time of whacking my shin on it to decide that I want it short. Probably a 1/4" or so sticking out. I have a stainless trim ring to put on the body opening.
9 & 10) The start of the cold-side piping. I could have clocked the turbo outlet so that it pointed down. However, I want as much ground clearance as possible. Therefore, I ran it in this configuration.
left off.
2 & 3) Dremel-tooled the exit for the downpipe in the front bumper cover.
4) Had an emotional moment today. I lost my Dad in January, and today I opened the last spool of welding wire that he'd bought me as a Christmas gift. I know he'd want me to use it.
6-8) Long or short? That was my question for the downpipe portion that exits the bumper cover. I left it alone so that I could think on it. It only took me one time of whacking my shin on it to decide that I want it short. Probably a 1/4" or so sticking out. I have a stainless trim ring to put on the body opening.
9 & 10) The start of the cold-side piping. I could have clocked the turbo outlet so that it pointed down. However, I want as much ground clearance as possible. Therefore, I ran it in this configuration.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-24-2018 at 08:10 AM.
03-20-2014, 08:37 PM
#230
1 & 2) The elbow that I had for the intercooler didn't have a tight-enough radius for my usage. Therefore, I cut it in two and rewelded it back together.
3) Cold-side piping tack-welded together for trial fitting.
4 & 5) The inlet piping for the intercooler snakes in behind the front bumper cover. I have one V-band clamp in the middle of it to make for easy installation and removal.
6-8) The intake cold-side piping taking shape. The stepped down piece in photo #6 was about 1/8" or less too big, so I split it down the middle and rewelded it back together. Yes, I did mess up and have the seam on the top side of the piping. I will eventually flap wheel it down smooth. I used a 02 sensor bung for the IAT sensor.
-----------March 21, 2014 Update------------------------------------
9) Fabricated two support brackets today. This one supports the cold-side piping on the driver's-side. Rod ends on each end allow for movement.
10) Removed the radiator overflow tank so the cold-side inlet pipe could pass through the factory opening for the radiator overflow. I will relocate it along with the oil catch can.
3) Cold-side piping tack-welded together for trial fitting.
4 & 5) The inlet piping for the intercooler snakes in behind the front bumper cover. I have one V-band clamp in the middle of it to make for easy installation and removal.
6-8) The intake cold-side piping taking shape. The stepped down piece in photo #6 was about 1/8" or less too big, so I split it down the middle and rewelded it back together. Yes, I did mess up and have the seam on the top side of the piping. I will eventually flap wheel it down smooth. I used a 02 sensor bung for the IAT sensor.
-----------March 21, 2014 Update------------------------------------
9) Fabricated two support brackets today. This one supports the cold-side piping on the driver's-side. Rod ends on each end allow for movement.
10) Removed the radiator overflow tank so the cold-side inlet pipe could pass through the factory opening for the radiator overflow. I will relocate it along with the oil catch can.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 03-21-2014 at 07:11 PM.
03-21-2014, 07:16 PM
#232
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1) Fabricating the upper part of the cold-side inlet tube.
2 & 3) Fabricating the lower part of the cold-side inlet tube. One v-band clamp aides in installation and removal.
4) The lower pipe snakes down through the factory coolant overflow tank opening, over the downpipe & into the intercooler.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 03-22-2014 at 08:07 PM.
03-22-2014, 08:08 PM
#233
Pic #1) Fabricated a BOV mount.
Pic #2) Air intake pipe. The air filter slides on the flared end.
Pic #4 & 5) Trimmed out a small recessed area for the upper radiator hose to pass by.
Pic #7) On my car, both Jegs and Summit Racing parts get along
Pic #8-10) Extra bung on downpipe for ease of any future tuning with a wideband.
Pic #2) Air intake pipe. The air filter slides on the flared end.
Pic #4 & 5) Trimmed out a small recessed area for the upper radiator hose to pass by.
Pic #7) On my car, both Jegs and Summit Racing parts get along
Pic #8-10) Extra bung on downpipe for ease of any future tuning with a wideband.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 03-29-2014 at 09:45 AM.
03-23-2014, 10:30 AM
#234
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Been doing a lot of research here and on Yahoo regarding how to dump the wastegate. Was thinking I wanted to route it back into the downpipe, but also was curious as to how those with it dumped to the atmosphere liked it. I believe I'm still going to route it back into the downpipe.
Photo 4) Removed the bracket that formerly held the oil catch can in place. I will be relocating it on the other side of the down bar closer to the engine.
Photo 5) The bracket I fabricated for the coolant overflow tank. I welded nuts to the backside to make my life easier when it comes to installation and removal. The tank will sit at an angle in the corner. Once upon a time, the hood bumper support bracket lived there.
Photo 8-10) I spent a considerable amount of time researching whether or not I should locate my wastegate close to the turbo or not. I never found any information pointing in either direction, so I am routing it over behind the radiator fan. Space was my issue. This will also keep all the lines up and away from the underside of the car.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 03-29-2014 at 09:49 AM.
03-23-2014, 02:58 PM
#235
Thanks man. You car looks great. Nice build. That bad boy is gonna be a blast. I appreciate you answering my question.
03-23-2014, 04:10 PM
#236
I pulled it off. Lol Thanks again.
03-28-2014, 09:02 PM
#237
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1) Completed piping for wastegate. It snakes between the manifold pipe and the downpipe. As I type this it's snowing outside for some ungodly reason, but I will probably fab up a support bracket for this at a later date. Mounted into this location because of space and ground clearance requirements.
2-6) Wastgate mocked into position on the intake side. Will be fabricating exhaust side next.
7) It's close, but isn't touching the intake tubing. I'll feel better when it has a little more clearance.
8) Location marked for modification.
9) My nearby Tractor Supply has nice welding and hardware areas that I've used on several occasions as this project progresses.
10) License plate pocket trimmed out for ventilation to the intercooler.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 04-14-2014 at 06:07 PM.
04-04-2014, 01:58 PM
#238
1 & 2)Giving credit to where credit is due, I got my inspiration for this fan from https://www.facebook.com/FlashWs6. I noticed it in the GMHTP article that featured his car.
3 & 4) Trimmed two small slots on the bottom of the license plate pocket cover so it would clear the bolts used to mount the fan.
5) I've been through a bunch of this.....75/25 welding gas. I had to make a run for some more so that I could continue welding.
6) Vacuum port I added to the cold-side turbo piping.
7) This is a small clearance area I made to better clear the wastegate.
8 & 9) Bracket welded in place for the oil catch can.
3 & 4) Trimmed two small slots on the bottom of the license plate pocket cover so it would clear the bolts used to mount the fan.
5) I've been through a bunch of this.....75/25 welding gas. I had to make a run for some more so that I could continue welding.
6) Vacuum port I added to the cold-side turbo piping.
7) This is a small clearance area I made to better clear the wastegate.
8 & 9) Bracket welded in place for the oil catch can.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 06-14-2014 at 06:33 AM.
04-04-2014, 01:59 PM
#239
2) Fabricating the exhaust-side of the wastegate. This will dump into the downpipe.
3 & 4) Mocked into position & welded up.
5) Welding up the muffler and body-exiting part of the downpipe.
6 & 7) Installation of ports on oil catch can.
8 & 9) Upper supports for radiator & transmission cooler that I fabricated. The transmission cooler is mounted up high because of space/clearance issues. I put it in the path of the air flow for the radiator.
10) Tapping the hole for the turbocharger oil drain line. Space limitations prevented me from using a tap handle or socket/ratchet to thread the tap into the front cover. So, I fabricated a crude t-handle onto the tap itself. Worked like a charm.
3 & 4) Mocked into position & welded up.
5) Welding up the muffler and body-exiting part of the downpipe.
6 & 7) Installation of ports on oil catch can.
8 & 9) Upper supports for radiator & transmission cooler that I fabricated. The transmission cooler is mounted up high because of space/clearance issues. I put it in the path of the air flow for the radiator.
10) Tapping the hole for the turbocharger oil drain line. Space limitations prevented me from using a tap handle or socket/ratchet to thread the tap into the front cover. So, I fabricated a crude t-handle onto the tap itself. Worked like a charm.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 06-14-2014 at 06:43 AM.
04-14-2014, 06:00 PM
#240
1) A larger drain line is recommended, but I just didn't have the space for one. Mine is a 6 an (January 2016 changed to 8 an).
2) My new "headlights" are slightly larger than the opening for the factory driving lights. Marked and trimmed them with my Dremel.
3 & 4) "Headlights" mocked into position.
5) the underside of the front bumper cover had to be cut off allowing air access to the intercooler. This is the first rough cut. It originally bolted to the bottom of the front impact bumper. I will fab up some brackets to secure it.
6) Started to install the carbon fiber interior door panels. When it came time to make some cuts to it, I discovered that my Dremel tool was dead.
7-9) Painting all the turbo-related piping with flat grey VHT Flame Proof paint.
10) Began wrapping DEI Titanium exhaust wrap onto the hot-side piping. I did this while watching television.
2) My new "headlights" are slightly larger than the opening for the factory driving lights. Marked and trimmed them with my Dremel.
3 & 4) "Headlights" mocked into position.
5) the underside of the front bumper cover had to be cut off allowing air access to the intercooler. This is the first rough cut. It originally bolted to the bottom of the front impact bumper. I will fab up some brackets to secure it.
6) Started to install the carbon fiber interior door panels. When it came time to make some cuts to it, I discovered that my Dremel tool was dead.
7-9) Painting all the turbo-related piping with flat grey VHT Flame Proof paint.
10) Began wrapping DEI Titanium exhaust wrap onto the hot-side piping. I did this while watching television.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 01-13-2016 at 05:03 PM.