1995 Firebird 4.8L Street/Strip Turbo Project
12-12-2010, 05:32 PM
#42
Steering wheel swap...
NOTICE: Driving a car originally-equipped with an air bag (in the steering wheel) on the street with the air bag removed is against the law. You have been forewarned!
NOTICE: Driving a car originally-equipped with an air bag (in the steering wheel) on the street with the air bag removed is against the law. You have been forewarned!
Last edited by y2k_ta; 08-31-2013 at 03:04 PM.
12-12-2010, 05:39 PM
#43
I did the following on April 2-3, 2010:
Removed the Summit Poly Pro Seat from the driver's-side location. I then removed the S&W Race Cars seat mount from the Summit Poly Pro Seat
and bolted it to the bottom of the Jegs Pro Seat II. The Jegs seat replaced the Summit seat on the driver's-side. When I bought the Summit seat in
March 2007, that was the only style of poly seat offered at the time. Sometime later they came out with a revised version of the poly seat with better
shoulder openings for the five point harness. The new seat offered individual slots for each shoulder harness rather than the single slot on the previous
seat design. Both Summit & Jegs sell the same seat under their own brand names. I ended up buying the seat from Jegs because overall it was
cheaper to purchase it from them than it was Summit at the time. I think they might of had either the seat or the cover for it on sale.
So with the Jegs seat in the driver's-side location, I began to install the Summit seat in its new location on the passenger-side. Since joining the
Maintenance Department at work in October 2009, I've been afforded the opportunity to fabricate a few items for the car as time permits using the tools
& supplies in the shop. This time I needed two seat brackets for the passenger-side seat. I used a piece of scrap steel from the scrap bin and along
with the bending brake & welder fabricated my own seat brackets. The passenger-side foot well area has the lovely catalytic converter hump, so the
brackets had to be made to fit around that. I used the overall dimensions of the S&W Race Cars aluminum brackets to build the steel ones for the
passenger-side.
The overall exterior dimensions of both style of seats are the same EXCEPT for the mounting base. The Jegs seat is about 1/2" longer than the Summit
seat, so I ended up having to enlarge the bolt holes I'd drilled on my brackets in order for the Summit seat to attach to them. That was no big deal since
they're out of view anyway, but I guess I should have known better than to base the specs completely off of the newer Jegs seat. The only reason I used
the Jegs seat for my dimensions was due to the fact that the Summit seat was still bolted in the car.
With a seat now going on the passenger-side, the mounting location of the fire extinquisher had to be changed. Instead of having it on the passenger-side
of the driveshaft tunnel, I moved it to right in front of the passenger seat on the floorboard. That location is in easy reach from the driver's seat, and doesn't
require me to bend my arm & elbow around like I would of had to do if I remounted the extinguisher back on top of the tunnel in between the seats. That
location was the very first location for the extinquisher, and it was an "elbow hazzard".
I also installed the RCI 5 point harness onto the Jegs seat. At this time, I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do restraint-wise on the passenger seat, but
eventually I will probably try to get a harness similar to the one I will wear when driving. (Note: during installation of the second rollcage, I added a factory
shoulder belt to the passenger-side seat along with a 5-point harness)
Removed the Summit Poly Pro Seat from the driver's-side location. I then removed the S&W Race Cars seat mount from the Summit Poly Pro Seat
and bolted it to the bottom of the Jegs Pro Seat II. The Jegs seat replaced the Summit seat on the driver's-side. When I bought the Summit seat in
March 2007, that was the only style of poly seat offered at the time. Sometime later they came out with a revised version of the poly seat with better
shoulder openings for the five point harness. The new seat offered individual slots for each shoulder harness rather than the single slot on the previous
seat design. Both Summit & Jegs sell the same seat under their own brand names. I ended up buying the seat from Jegs because overall it was
cheaper to purchase it from them than it was Summit at the time. I think they might of had either the seat or the cover for it on sale.
So with the Jegs seat in the driver's-side location, I began to install the Summit seat in its new location on the passenger-side. Since joining the
Maintenance Department at work in October 2009, I've been afforded the opportunity to fabricate a few items for the car as time permits using the tools
& supplies in the shop. This time I needed two seat brackets for the passenger-side seat. I used a piece of scrap steel from the scrap bin and along
with the bending brake & welder fabricated my own seat brackets. The passenger-side foot well area has the lovely catalytic converter hump, so the
brackets had to be made to fit around that. I used the overall dimensions of the S&W Race Cars aluminum brackets to build the steel ones for the
passenger-side.
The overall exterior dimensions of both style of seats are the same EXCEPT for the mounting base. The Jegs seat is about 1/2" longer than the Summit
seat, so I ended up having to enlarge the bolt holes I'd drilled on my brackets in order for the Summit seat to attach to them. That was no big deal since
they're out of view anyway, but I guess I should have known better than to base the specs completely off of the newer Jegs seat. The only reason I used
the Jegs seat for my dimensions was due to the fact that the Summit seat was still bolted in the car.
With a seat now going on the passenger-side, the mounting location of the fire extinquisher had to be changed. Instead of having it on the passenger-side
of the driveshaft tunnel, I moved it to right in front of the passenger seat on the floorboard. That location is in easy reach from the driver's seat, and doesn't
require me to bend my arm & elbow around like I would of had to do if I remounted the extinguisher back on top of the tunnel in between the seats. That
location was the very first location for the extinquisher, and it was an "elbow hazzard".
I also installed the RCI 5 point harness onto the Jegs seat. At this time, I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do restraint-wise on the passenger seat, but
eventually I will probably try to get a harness similar to the one I will wear when driving. (Note: during installation of the second rollcage, I added a factory
shoulder belt to the passenger-side seat along with a 5-point harness)
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-22-2018 at 03:02 PM.
12-12-2010, 05:42 PM
#44
More photos from the seat install/swap...
3) Unhappy with the way the window net looked when mounted, I later on ordered a custom window net from S&W Race Cars. They have a template that you fill out with your particular dimensions, and they take care of the rest.
4 & 5) The driver's door glass leaks along the top and front edge, so rain heads straight for the lowest point on the floorboards. POR-15 will hopefully slow the erosion process down.
3) Unhappy with the way the window net looked when mounted, I later on ordered a custom window net from S&W Race Cars. They have a template that you fill out with your particular dimensions, and they take care of the rest.
4 & 5) The driver's door glass leaks along the top and front edge, so rain heads straight for the lowest point on the floorboards. POR-15 will hopefully slow the erosion process down.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 08-31-2013 at 03:08 PM.
12-12-2010, 05:57 PM
#45
Lookin good. I always liked the White TAs, especially in a race car its much cheaper to buy one like you did and convert it. My car is purple...not the most popular color but its hard to find, ill have to start a build thread now that im finally getting off my *** to work on it lol.
12-12-2010, 06:24 PM
#46
Lookin good. I always liked the White TAs, especially in a race car its much cheaper to buy one like you did and convert it. My car is purple...not the most popular color but its hard to find, ill have to start a build thread now that im finally getting off my *** to work on it lol.
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I went with the 12 gallon "Pro Street" fuel cell sold under the Summit Racing brand. At the time, I didn't order it with a fuel level sender. Later, I realized my mistake. By that time, it was already installed into the car, so I just added a fuel level sender later on. UPDATE: Later on in the build, I upgraded to a 16 gallon fuel cell that included the fuel level sender. Since I will be driving this car both on and off the street, I wanted a few extra gallon capacity. The new fuel cell isn't added to after the floor is redone starting in post #181. FURTHER UPDATE: in 2017, I upgraded to a Speedmaster Aluminum Fuel Cell. My Poly Fuel Cell got the typical pucker along its top.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-22-2018 at 03:05 PM.
12-12-2010, 06:40 PM
#47
My Dad has always drag raced small blocks. He has a 60-over 283-powered '67 Camaro that he bracket
raced for several years. Since Dad always liked to run the small engines, I thought it would be cool to do
the same but in a modern way. When I came across this 4.8L engine (out of a 2004 Chevy Truck) with just over 53,000 miles
on the odometer while surfing performanctrucks.net, the idea was hatched. The engine was in Monee, IL,
so on a July afternoon back in 2008 I went up there to pick it up. It sat in my garage for almost another
year until I dropped it into the car in June of 2009. I swapped all the accessories to f-body components
(water pump, alternator, crank pulley & related brackets for the alternator). At the time I dropped the
engine into the car, it was still completely stock other than the Edelbrock intake & Trick Flow timing chain.
I installed the timing chain before I put the engine in the car because I didn't want to have to worry about
loosening the motor mounts later on. Later on in June 2010, the engine got a Comp Cams Cam, valve springs
& pushrods along with Harland Sharp rocker arms (Dad runs those on the 283).
raced for several years. Since Dad always liked to run the small engines, I thought it would be cool to do
the same but in a modern way. When I came across this 4.8L engine (out of a 2004 Chevy Truck) with just over 53,000 miles
on the odometer while surfing performanctrucks.net, the idea was hatched. The engine was in Monee, IL,
so on a July afternoon back in 2008 I went up there to pick it up. It sat in my garage for almost another
year until I dropped it into the car in June of 2009. I swapped all the accessories to f-body components
(water pump, alternator, crank pulley & related brackets for the alternator). At the time I dropped the
engine into the car, it was still completely stock other than the Edelbrock intake & Trick Flow timing chain.
I installed the timing chain before I put the engine in the car because I didn't want to have to worry about
loosening the motor mounts later on. Later on in June 2010, the engine got a Comp Cams Cam, valve springs
& pushrods along with Harland Sharp rocker arms (Dad runs those on the 283).
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-16-2010 at 06:11 PM.
12-12-2010, 08:01 PM
#48
Chevy TH400 Transmission was found on Craigslist in January 2010. It came out of a 1989 C20 3/4 Ton Chevy Van with a 5.7L engine. I installed it in the car in August 2010. I didn't need the stock torque converter, but took it anyway because the seller couldn't use it. I'm using a Hughes Performance flexplate & adapter to mate the "old" torque converter to the LS crankshaft. I swapped in a new B&M Torque Converter along with a Taiwan transmission pan & flexplate cover (both purchased on ebay). My local GM dealer ordered me new bolts to mount the transmission to the back of the engine block. Since my Silverado also has a 4.8L engine in it, I just ordered the bolts for it. That kept me from having to go into great detail as to why I needed the bolts for a "non-stock" application.
Photo #1 & 2: Since it was January when I bought the transmission, I had to reorganize my "winter weight" in the truck bed so that the transmission would have a place to ride.
Photo #4: I bought a new B&M Torque Master Torque Converter through Jegs. It's made for a "first generation" 350. I have a Hughes Flexplate & Adapter made for adapting the LS engine to a TH400 & torque converter. I purchased both of the Hughes Performance parts through Summit Racing. The Summit part numbers are #HUP-HP4004 for the flexplate & #HUP-HP3795 for the flexplate adapter. The adapter attaches to the back of the crankshaft and allows the use of a "regular" TH400 torque converter rather than a custom one specifically for an LS engine (since the snout would need to be longer).
Note: I kept the Hughes Flexplate and Adapter, but both the transmission and torque converter have since been removed, sold for scrap and replaced.
Photo #1 & 2: Since it was January when I bought the transmission, I had to reorganize my "winter weight" in the truck bed so that the transmission would have a place to ride.
Photo #4: I bought a new B&M Torque Master Torque Converter through Jegs. It's made for a "first generation" 350. I have a Hughes Flexplate & Adapter made for adapting the LS engine to a TH400 & torque converter. I purchased both of the Hughes Performance parts through Summit Racing. The Summit part numbers are #HUP-HP4004 for the flexplate & #HUP-HP3795 for the flexplate adapter. The adapter attaches to the back of the crankshaft and allows the use of a "regular" TH400 torque converter rather than a custom one specifically for an LS engine (since the snout would need to be longer).
Note: I kept the Hughes Flexplate and Adapter, but both the transmission and torque converter have since been removed, sold for scrap and replaced.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-22-2018 at 03:08 PM.
12-13-2010, 04:39 PM
#50
Thanks for the compliments! I'm still playing catch up on the build history, so there will be many more updates...
Scott
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Those of you that have swapped a V8 into a 'bird or Camaro that was originally equipped with a V6 will know that the factory k-members are different between the two. Still keeping the "budget build" in mind, I decided to stick with a factory unit instead of a tubular version. This k-member came out of a '99 Trans Am from Missouri. I purchased it here on ls1tech. I was surprised when it arrived to see that it still had the engine mount pedestals attached. I'd purchased a used set of engine mounts on ebay that contained the pedestals, so I left the ones on the k-member and tossed the others.
Scott
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Those of you that have swapped a V8 into a 'bird or Camaro that was originally equipped with a V6 will know that the factory k-members are different between the two. Still keeping the "budget build" in mind, I decided to stick with a factory unit instead of a tubular version. This k-member came out of a '99 Trans Am from Missouri. I purchased it here on ls1tech. I was surprised when it arrived to see that it still had the engine mount pedestals attached. I'd purchased a used set of engine mounts on ebay that contained the pedestals, so I left the ones on the k-member and tossed the others.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-21-2010 at 06:27 PM.
12-13-2010, 04:47 PM
#51
More k-member install photos...
I also had to swap the steering linkage. The V6 steering linkage (shown in photo #4) would have be right in the way of the driver's-side header. Therefore, I had to source a 98-02 steering linkage from a V8 f-body. From my research, the V6 linkage was the same on all 93-02 f-bodies & the 93-97 LT1 f-bodies also used the same linkage. Also shared amongst the same three but not the LS f-bodies is the steering rack. The angle causes the steering linkage to be in the way. I sourced a used LS1 steering rack out of a 2002 Camaro from Trans Am Creations.
The last two photos are of the HVAC Delete panel that I purchased from Speed Inc. Since the time of purchase, I've acquired good fabrication skills thanks to my job. If I were to do it all over, I'd just fabricate my own panel. In fact, I might have just welded on in and smoothed the area out.
I also had to swap the steering linkage. The V6 steering linkage (shown in photo #4) would have be right in the way of the driver's-side header. Therefore, I had to source a 98-02 steering linkage from a V8 f-body. From my research, the V6 linkage was the same on all 93-02 f-bodies & the 93-97 LT1 f-bodies also used the same linkage. Also shared amongst the same three but not the LS f-bodies is the steering rack. The angle causes the steering linkage to be in the way. I sourced a used LS1 steering rack out of a 2002 Camaro from Trans Am Creations.
The last two photos are of the HVAC Delete panel that I purchased from Speed Inc. Since the time of purchase, I've acquired good fabrication skills thanks to my job. If I were to do it all over, I'd just fabricate my own panel. In fact, I might have just welded on in and smoothed the area out.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-16-2010 at 07:01 PM.
12-13-2010, 05:07 PM
#52
Since the V6 radiator was in pretty bad shape, I decided rather quickly to not use it. Besides, I wanted an LS radiator anyway. I purchased this one used. It came from the same '99 Trans Am that the k-member came out of down in Missouri.
I'm going to try and use the V6 fan since it still works just fine. I guess if I run into cooling issues I'll have to address that. I have it hooked up via a Painless Fan Relay Kit.
The radiator support structure of the 93-97 differs from the 98-02. Therefore, in order to use the LS1 plastic radiator support modifications to it are required.
The second to last pic of the B&M Transmission Cooler was originally purchased for my '00 'bird, but I ended up putting it on the '95 first. I did treat the '00 to one at a later date
Note: I ended up swapping out the V6 fan for an LS1 Dual-Fan Setup in the Spring of 2018. The B&M Transmission Cooler has since this post was made as well.
I'm going to try and use the V6 fan since it still works just fine. I guess if I run into cooling issues I'll have to address that. I have it hooked up via a Painless Fan Relay Kit.
The radiator support structure of the 93-97 differs from the 98-02. Therefore, in order to use the LS1 plastic radiator support modifications to it are required.
The second to last pic of the B&M Transmission Cooler was originally purchased for my '00 'bird, but I ended up putting it on the '95 first. I did treat the '00 to one at a later date
Note: I ended up swapping out the V6 fan for an LS1 Dual-Fan Setup in the Spring of 2018. The B&M Transmission Cooler has since this post was made as well.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-22-2018 at 03:11 PM.
12-13-2010, 05:30 PM
#53
Here we are in June of 2009, and it's engine install time!
I bought a engine hoist from Harbor Freight, and I'll be damned if the boom wouldn't extend out far enough. It still wouldn't extend out far enough when I used it positioned at the side of the car. I ended up using a 1" x 6" piece of treated lumber that I had laying around to "slide" the engine down into position. I propped it along the driver's-side inner fender well, and then slowly slid it down into place with the hoist. I still had to use the floor jack to get it into the engine mounts,. but at least it worked!
The other photos are of the Edelbrock intake & elbow along with their fuel rails. I purchased them as a kit from Summit Racing. The coil packs were purchased used, and I painted the f-body coil brackets Chevy Orange to match the engine block. The oil pan is an f-body piece that I purchased new on ebay. The odd thing about the pan is the fact that a standard "f-body" oil filter would not thread onto the nipple. After doing some research online, I discovered that others have had the same problem. The fix is to use the oil filter for a 2008 Hummer with the 5.7L (part #PH10060).
I bought a engine hoist from Harbor Freight, and I'll be damned if the boom wouldn't extend out far enough. It still wouldn't extend out far enough when I used it positioned at the side of the car. I ended up using a 1" x 6" piece of treated lumber that I had laying around to "slide" the engine down into position. I propped it along the driver's-side inner fender well, and then slowly slid it down into place with the hoist. I still had to use the floor jack to get it into the engine mounts,. but at least it worked!
The other photos are of the Edelbrock intake & elbow along with their fuel rails. I purchased them as a kit from Summit Racing. The coil packs were purchased used, and I painted the f-body coil brackets Chevy Orange to match the engine block. The oil pan is an f-body piece that I purchased new on ebay. The odd thing about the pan is the fact that a standard "f-body" oil filter would not thread onto the nipple. After doing some research online, I discovered that others have had the same problem. The fix is to use the oil filter for a 2008 Hummer with the 5.7L (part #PH10060).
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-16-2010 at 06:16 PM.
12-13-2010, 05:42 PM
#55
1) Yes, I'm ashamed to say that I bought the Taiwan headers you find all over ebay. They went on rather easy, and only one small place on the driver's-side header required some massaging with a hammer. At some point I'd like to buy a good set of American-Made headers. UPDATE: Adding a Turbonetics Turbo to the car at some point, and going back to factory truck manifolds (reversed of course).
Notes from my 08/21/09 install:
I had to beat the floor in and use the floor jack to get the driver's-side header up into position. They tuck up in the car very nicely. Looking at the space I had to work with, I was really worried about the passenger-side header not going up into place. Surprisingly, it slid up in with almost no trouble at all. I did, however, have to raise the car with a block of wood on the jack. Otherwise, I couldn't turn the header up enough for it to slide into place.
Notes from 03/06/10:
I took one of the bung bolts and used it to plug the ABS Sensor opening in the top of the rear end. It is sealed with gasket sealer. The other bung bolt was used in the wide band port back in September 2009 when the exhaust was fabricated.
Notes from 10/17/10:
When I finally tightened the motor mounts, the clearance issue with the driver's-side header collector (it was touching the underside of the floor) corrected itself. Both sides are very similar now.
Notes from my 08/21/09 install:
I had to beat the floor in and use the floor jack to get the driver's-side header up into position. They tuck up in the car very nicely. Looking at the space I had to work with, I was really worried about the passenger-side header not going up into place. Surprisingly, it slid up in with almost no trouble at all. I did, however, have to raise the car with a block of wood on the jack. Otherwise, I couldn't turn the header up enough for it to slide into place.
Notes from 03/06/10:
I took one of the bung bolts and used it to plug the ABS Sensor opening in the top of the rear end. It is sealed with gasket sealer. The other bung bolt was used in the wide band port back in September 2009 when the exhaust was fabricated.
Notes from 10/17/10:
When I finally tightened the motor mounts, the clearance issue with the driver's-side header collector (it was touching the underside of the floor) corrected itself. Both sides are very similar now.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 08-31-2013 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Added verbiage
12-13-2010, 06:55 PM
#57
-----------------------------------------------
December of 2008 I ordered a stand-alone engine wiring harness from Tech Rods through ebay. Since I didn't have a factory harness to modify, I decided to go this route.
Here's a little back story to help out....Back in July of 2007, my '00 'bird suffered an engine fire. I spent the next year replacing all the parts that were destroyed along with the entire engine wiring harness since it was badly melted at the back of the engine. It took some time to get it all sorted out, but I eventually found all the bugs and got it running again. Anyway, during all the trial and error I ordered a new pcm from the nearby AutoZone just to rule that out. The VIN was required so that the correct computer and programming would be sent to the store. The original pcm ended up being just fine, so I was left with a spare. When it came time to wire up the 4.8L engine in the '95 'bird, I already had the computer. Therefore, my '95 Firebird "thinks" it's a 2000 Trans Am
The Tech Rods wiring harness couldn't have been any easier to install. Everything was clearly marked, and since I'd had experience with the factory harness on my other 'bird it was even easier for me. The one snag I did come across was with the starter wiring. The Tech Rods stand-alone harness doesn't include wiring for the starter circuit, so you must either recreate your own or use the existing circuit on the car. I had already removed and tossed the factory wiring not thinking that I would ever need it again, so I had to create new.
To make the engine bay a little less cluttered, I mounted the pcm for the engine inside the car. It's
right where the passenger-side airbag used to live, and is easily accessed by lifting the airbag cover.
I cut a slot big enough to slide the pcm plugs through in the HVAC cover, and then made a plate to
cover the excess space after everything was installed.
The stand-alone engine harness didn't come with an attachment for the electric fan, so I had to purchase
a stand-alone fan relay from Painless Wiring. It runs the fan via a thermostat that is threaded into the
rear of the passenger-side cylinder head.
June 2009-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I finally got around to cleaning up all the wiring in the engine bay. I was waiting to add the Painless
Wiring Alternator Shut-off & TH400 Kickdown Switch wiring before wrapping everything in black convoluted
tubing. Before wrapping the wiring, I painted the ABS Module, Brake Booster, K-Member & Steering Rack
all black.
I also installed a proper rubber coolant hose to the coolant overflow container. While the container was
back off the car, I also took a Sharpie permanent marker and highlighted the coolant levels that were
embossed on the side of it.
Note: The car is now running off a Holley EFI Terminator 4.8 System.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-22-2018 at 03:14 PM.
12-13-2010, 07:10 PM
#58
Miscellaneous Stuff....
Professional Products 85mm Throttle Body (bought new on ebay)
B&M TH400 Kickdown Switch (bought new through Summit Racing)
Speedway Motors Proportioning Valve (relabeled Wilwood unit)
Air Lid (no name brand bought used on ls1tech)
Used alternator & brackets from f-body bought on ebay (shown before brackets modified)
Aftermarket Coolant Overflow Container (mounted in factory battery location)
Spectre Intake Elbow (bought new from Summit Racing)
LS1 f-body throttle cable without traction control (bought new from Penske Chevrolet)
Thunder Racing Belt Tensioner (bought used on ebay)
Biondo Line Lock (new via Summit Racing)
None of this stuff is on the car now. It has all since been replaced or changed.
Professional Products 85mm Throttle Body (bought new on ebay)
B&M TH400 Kickdown Switch (bought new through Summit Racing)
Speedway Motors Proportioning Valve (relabeled Wilwood unit)
Air Lid (no name brand bought used on ls1tech)
Used alternator & brackets from f-body bought on ebay (shown before brackets modified)
Aftermarket Coolant Overflow Container (mounted in factory battery location)
Spectre Intake Elbow (bought new from Summit Racing)
LS1 f-body throttle cable without traction control (bought new from Penske Chevrolet)
Thunder Racing Belt Tensioner (bought used on ebay)
Biondo Line Lock (new via Summit Racing)
None of this stuff is on the car now. It has all since been replaced or changed.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-22-2018 at 03:15 PM.
12-13-2010, 07:16 PM
#59
Comp Cams Cam, Valve Springs & Pushrods
Cam part# 54-412-11
Grind # LS1 XR265HR-14
Gross Valve Lift: .522 intake / .529 exhaust
Duration @ .006: 265 intake / 271 exhaust
Lobe separation: 114.0
Valve Springs & Pushrods kit part #54050
Cam part# 54-412-11
Grind # LS1 XR265HR-14
Gross Valve Lift: .522 intake / .529 exhaust
Duration @ .006: 265 intake / 271 exhaust
Lobe separation: 114.0
Valve Springs & Pushrods kit part #54050
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-16-2010 at 07:14 PM.
12-13-2010, 07:21 PM
#60
Harland Sharp LS1 Rocker Arms (part #SLS17)
I ran into some clearance issues with the rocker arms near the pushrod. I used my "dremel" tool to grind away the cylinder head...no more than absolutely necessary. I also had to do similar clearancing on the UMI Performance Valve Cover Spacers.
The last 5 photos show the results of the clearancing.
I ran into some clearance issues with the rocker arms near the pushrod. I used my "dremel" tool to grind away the cylinder head...no more than absolutely necessary. I also had to do similar clearancing on the UMI Performance Valve Cover Spacers.
The last 5 photos show the results of the clearancing.
Last edited by y2k_ta; 12-16-2010 at 07:08 PM.