Tick Performance Battery Relocation Kit SPECIFICALLY for LS1 F-Bodies - FINALLY HERE!
07-20-2011, 09:51 PM
#22
Technically, the kit wouldn't be legal per the rules that were posted earlier in this thread when used in conjunction with the BMR tray. What IS legal is a functional disconnect switch and all the necessary wiring to make it work properly. If mounting the battery in the spare tire well, our kit should work just the same with a sealed box as it would the BMR tray. Obviously it would just be a bit more difficult to mount a sealed box in there however.
We chose to make this kit work with the BMR tray because it looks clean and its what the customer already had.
We have installed a number of BMR trays and I have yet to see any track official send a car home because of it. My own personal car has the battery mounted in the bottom of the t-top well in a cheap plastic box from Summit. It has made its way past the strict tech at the LSx shootout twice. It was inspected both times... There is no bulkhead in my car, nothing separates the trunk area other than the factory carpeted flap.
The switch is designed to mount in the rear panel between the tail lights....so the only difference may be a slightly different cable length that goes from the pos on the battery to the switch if you wish to mount the battery in the t-top well.
We terminate all cables except for one end of the alt cable and the starter cable which will pass through the firewall and be trimmed for an exact fit by the final installer. By making all the cables complete it will cut down drastically on the guess work during the install and the actual time it takes to perform the install. If anyone wishes to mount the battery in the spare well just let us know when the order is placed and I will determine the correct length of cable and make changes as necessary.
All cables will come terminated with the correct size lugs, soldered, with heat shrink. Detailed instructions with pictures will show exactly where and what size to drill holes where the switch mounts and where the cables pass through the firewall. Proper battery cable grommets are provided to protect the cable where it passes through the firewall, and by keeping the cables inside under the carpet they stay away from hazards and moving parts on the outside of the car.
I will post some pics of the kit installed on a car tomorrow when I get back to the shop. Basically the primary cable which runs to the starter will route through the firewall and rest on the pass side frame rail area along with the heater hose assembly an loop around and pass back down to the starter as the factory cable routed. From there, a different cable will go from the starter to the fuse/relay boxes also routes as the factory cable did. The Alt cable will route from the switch at the rear of the car to the Alt only. It will pass through the firewall on the driver side and route along the frame rail with the factory wiring harness and from there route down to the Alt. This makes a very clean look that stays away from any moving parts and hot exhaust.
We chose to make this kit work with the BMR tray because it looks clean and its what the customer already had.
We have installed a number of BMR trays and I have yet to see any track official send a car home because of it. My own personal car has the battery mounted in the bottom of the t-top well in a cheap plastic box from Summit. It has made its way past the strict tech at the LSx shootout twice. It was inspected both times... There is no bulkhead in my car, nothing separates the trunk area other than the factory carpeted flap.
The switch is designed to mount in the rear panel between the tail lights....so the only difference may be a slightly different cable length that goes from the pos on the battery to the switch if you wish to mount the battery in the t-top well.
We terminate all cables except for one end of the alt cable and the starter cable which will pass through the firewall and be trimmed for an exact fit by the final installer. By making all the cables complete it will cut down drastically on the guess work during the install and the actual time it takes to perform the install. If anyone wishes to mount the battery in the spare well just let us know when the order is placed and I will determine the correct length of cable and make changes as necessary.
All cables will come terminated with the correct size lugs, soldered, with heat shrink. Detailed instructions with pictures will show exactly where and what size to drill holes where the switch mounts and where the cables pass through the firewall. Proper battery cable grommets are provided to protect the cable where it passes through the firewall, and by keeping the cables inside under the carpet they stay away from hazards and moving parts on the outside of the car.
I will post some pics of the kit installed on a car tomorrow when I get back to the shop. Basically the primary cable which runs to the starter will route through the firewall and rest on the pass side frame rail area along with the heater hose assembly an loop around and pass back down to the starter as the factory cable routed. From there, a different cable will go from the starter to the fuse/relay boxes also routes as the factory cable did. The Alt cable will route from the switch at the rear of the car to the Alt only. It will pass through the firewall on the driver side and route along the frame rail with the factory wiring harness and from there route down to the Alt. This makes a very clean look that stays away from any moving parts and hot exhaust.
07-26-2011, 08:11 AM
#24
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Still awaiting the pics. Any way you could post the instructions as well? What happens to the stock battery wiring and terminals? Just removed and replaced per the relocation? I want to do this.
07-26-2011, 10:46 AM
#25
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This is an awesome looking kit. I would have bought this a few months ago when I was reallly searching hard for doing the battery relocation. This has also been added to my wish list. Right after cam kit and getting my wheels widend with some 315 dr's
07-26-2011, 03:02 PM
#26
Heres a few pics:
Going down to the alt.
Hole trimmed in rear of car in order to mount the switch and route the cables
Two cables connected to the starter. One from the Batt, one going to the fuse location
Main Batt cable going through the firewall on passenger side
Alt cable going through the firewall on the driver side.
Going down to the alt.
Hole trimmed in rear of car in order to mount the switch and route the cables
Two cables connected to the starter. One from the Batt, one going to the fuse location
Main Batt cable going through the firewall on passenger side
Alt cable going through the firewall on the driver side.
07-26-2011, 03:24 PM
#27
Our kit will include a new ground from the battery to the chassis in the rear and two short ground cables to connect the engine to the chassis up front.
As for the LT1 guys, this kit can be made to work with a little modification. Primarily, the alt cable will have to be routed along the passenger side with the main cable due to the factory location of the alt. The cable must be trimmed before connecting to the alt anyway, so it will work fine with the LT1...its likely that more will have to be trimmed off. For LT1's that have the alt relocated to the lower driver side just follow the provided instructions.
The other difference between the LT and LS is the location of the cable that provides power to the fuses/relays in the engine bay. For an LT1 the cable would route from the starter to the connection point on the passenger side fender well. This too would likely take a shorter cable.
Anyone who wishes to order the kit for an LT1 f-body, just call to place your order and we'll take care of it.
07-26-2011, 08:34 PM
#28
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Is the fuse and rubber grommets included? Also, I currently have my dash out of the car doing some weight reduction, can you elaborate on the holes that need to be drilled, size, and location while I'm at this point to facilitate the install of the kit? I probably order the kit in about 2 wks.
Last edited by joblo1978; 07-28-2011 at 09:04 AM.
08-02-2011, 11:00 PM
#29
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Hmmmm...... anyone wanna loan me $200???
Prefect kit. Thank you for doin this. Been trying to piece this together for some time now. Will be ordering as soon as i can.
Hijacking question...... anyone know if the battery switch can be made to fit Under the center tail light filler piece on firebirds??? Not a fan of the ugly switch on my car. This way i can cover for shows, then remove center piece at track....... just a thought
Prefect kit. Thank you for doin this. Been trying to piece this together for some time now. Will be ordering as soon as i can.
Hijacking question...... anyone know if the battery switch can be made to fit Under the center tail light filler piece on firebirds??? Not a fan of the ugly switch on my car. This way i can cover for shows, then remove center piece at track....... just a thought
08-24-2011, 04:33 PM
#37
Sandmann120, there are two plastic cable grommets included with the kit. The snap into place when pressed into the holes then when the cable is routed through them the locks cannot be pushed in in order for the grommet to be removed. Its tough to see them in the pics because they aren't as large as a rubber grommet.
joblo1978, the size and location of the holes are specified in the instructions included in the kit. They can be drilled easily on a car with all the dash is assembled, and actually references from various bolts and other things that bolt to the firewall for location. I would just go ahead and assemble the dash for now.
I_Need_Land, we designed the kit to work with a specific switch in a specific location. Some switches may have different stud sizes and different capacities for amperage. Also, different mounting locations may change the required length of the pre-made cables. I have a Flaming River push/pull switch in my own car and I honestly prefer the toggle design to that rod sticking out the back of the car....
Anyone can choose to use a different switch if they wish, but I don't plan to offer the kit without the one we know will fit/work. Other switches may require modifications to the cables.
sedanman, the part number of Optima battery we have in our car is 34/78-980.