Mid 11's for under 3k? I am trying to help him buy effective parts. I have a good knowledge what works but he's thrwing out ideas like a Holley intake, FIPK and other things that I think are :barf: Below is the list I have put together of go fast goodies. Any additions or subtractions welcome. Car in question is a 2002 35th convertable WS6 Lid ($125) Filter ($45) Coated Pacesetter Headers (New $400ish) Off road Y-pipe with Flowmaster collector ($175) Cut out ($35) TNT F1 ($670) Bottle Heater ($120) Harlan Window switch ($75) Buy some stock 16" Z28 wheels ($100) 26" - 11.5 ET streets ($340) Adjustable TQ arm ($320) Rear contol arms ($120) Subframe connectors ($200 Diamond style since it is a vert) Total $2925 (No tax or shipping. We would be doing install on all parts).. Little over budget but, would this net 11's?? |
Forgot to mention it is a A4.. |
One word, YES. |
Yes it can be done. However, I'd just forget about using ET streets all together. I'd go with Nittos. Buying a few parts used to save cash towards a nitrous verter/tranny cooler couldn't hurt either. Josh |
Originally Posted by distortion_69 Yes it can be done. However, I'd just forget about using ET streets all together. I'd go with Nittos. Buying a few parts used to save cash towards a nitrous verter/tranny cooler couldn't hurt either. Josh |
I think streets would be the way to go.. The car is raced on the street and we all know that Nittos or even BFG DR's wount hook like an ET street. |
4200 plus stall converter headers/Ypipe/cutouts slicks/skinnies 100 shot TNT wet kit done :) |
What Chris said, but don't most people recommend 3800 at most for a nitrous car? |
I did this: vigi 3200 converter with cooler = $750 Nittos = 300 TNT F1 kit on a GP (100 shot) = $475 lid = $125 Cutout = $30 I went 11.7@115 like that. Then I added MAC headers and went 11.6@123 on terrible run where it shifted to second early back down to first then finished out the run. This was back in 01. |
you guys go to the track often and run slicks/et streets consistantly on a stock 10 bolt with no probs ? most of the fbod people i know usually shy away from hard drag launching, especially on slicks on a stock rear end but yea im jealous, its so easy for u guys to go 11's no sweat :) |
11's are almost too easy, isn't that crazy! i went 12.4 with the following 85mm lid 85mm maf tci 3800 stall FTRA asp pulley nittos. That is it! if i put a 100 shot on it i have mid 11's easy. all mods with nos would total around 2 grand. |
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 360 4200 plus stall converter headers/Ypipe/cutouts slicks/skinnies 100 shot TNT wet kit done :) |
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM 11's are almost too easy, isn't that crazy! i went 12.4 with the following 85mm lid 85mm maf tci 3800 stall FTRA asp pulley nittos. That is it! if i put a 100 shot on it i have mid 11's easy. all mods with nos would total around 2 grand. what was the trap on that 12.4? isn't a 3800 stall sorta big for ur setup |
Originally Posted by Short Round nice what was the trap on that 12.4? isn't a 3800 stall sorta big for ur setup |
oops thanks for pointing that out. I started off thinking 11s NA before thinking about spray. PYE 4000 for spray :) |
"what? no way...he will need some real tires...invest in the et streets" I was just saying, even though a 10 bolt is more likely to last longer in a a4 than an m6. I certainly wouldn't want to suggest something to him that could possibly leave him stranded at the track the first day :) Stick with BFGS or Nittos if your gonna do some hard launching off a convertor and spraying and want it to be reliable. Hell, you might even break it with Nittos.. eventually. Its an uncertainty, really. We have a local or two here who have made 20-30 passes on et streets with no problem. He only wants mid 11's, and with spray and bfgs and a verter that would be highly possible. Whatever floats his boat.. thats just my opinion. But as you can see, I have a 12 bolt :D Peace, Josh |
Originally Posted by QwikFix I wouldn't say a 3800 is big for his set up, he'd probably stand to gain a bit more if he went to a Yank 4400. I think it has been agreed that the yank 4200/4400 are the best 'verters for a SI setup. im just a n00b, i ran a 00 ws6 with just lid and exhaust and he had a 3200 stall, i don't know what gears tho, and people were saying it was too big for him at that point...he got heads/cam afterwards, now people say its too small for him lol so thats why i thought 3800 was "big" for a near stock motor |
The 3800 isn't too big at all, drives great on the street. .Of course I could have went bigger but I didn't want a super loose high stall for the street. My car is not a drag race /max effort car, my converter is big enough to hit hard but not too big to run nitrous or blower. I will be doing the latter. ;) 1.68 60' with no suspension mods on nittos. a lot of people underrate this converter and I don't know why. If i had suspension and stickier tires I could do 1.5's I'm pretty confident about that. |
Take the money on the T/A and filter and put it to a 3200-3600 converter. With the torque of the nitrous, you don't need alot of converter, it will drive right through the converter and waste all your new found power. The tp4400 is a joke on the stock engine with nitrous, it stalls about 5-5200 and just doesn't work in my experience but a little more helps a bunch. With bolt ons, 100 shot,vig3200 and internal stock, I've gone 10.63. Thats at about 3300 raceweight also. DEFINATELY get the ET streets. You cant go 11's without hooking hard. |
Lid Filter Hooker longtubes Off road Y-pipe with Flowmaster collector Cut out TNT F1 Bottle Heater Harlan Window switch Intank fuel pump 16" wheels ($100) 26" - 10.5 ET streets ($340) Rear contol arms ($120) Subframe connectors ($200 Diamond style since it is a vert) Vig 3200 or a <3600 stall My friend back in 1999 went 11.45@116mph with all of that, plus skinnies, a roll bar and minimal weight reduction. |
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