Do slicks provide the same grip spinning at higher speeds?
03-05-2012, 03:50 PM
#21
It looks like you might have lowering springs on the car. If so, they have to go, and be replaced with some factory springs/shocks for better weight transfer.
While getting the alignment after replacing shocks, make sure they take all the negative camber out of the back they can to put it close to zero.
IF that doesnt help enough, add 100 lbs to the rear bumper. Or do both.
Al
While getting the alignment after replacing shocks, make sure they take all the negative camber out of the back they can to put it close to zero.
IF that doesnt help enough, add 100 lbs to the rear bumper. Or do both.
Al
03-05-2012, 06:38 PM
#22
I would put a double adjustable shock on it so when the rear squats it can be held down, so that the weight won't transfer back off the rear so easily. ANY rear camber at all is no good, get rid of all of it, and get the stuff out so it's not going to gain any during the suspension travel.
That rear camber change, is one of the major issues with any independant rear suspension car and drag racing. One of the main reasons it will never work as well as a solid axle will.
That rear camber change, is one of the major issues with any independant rear suspension car and drag racing. One of the main reasons it will never work as well as a solid axle will.
03-19-2012, 06:53 PM
#23
Does the car have any anti squat built into the independant rear suspension? If so can you get rid of it so the rear will squat more, effectively also transferring more weight?
These are the things you have to do to get the car to leave. Or, put a lower ratio rear gear (3.73 to 3.55 for example) in the rear end, and put a slipper clutch in the car. This way when you let it out it doesn't grab so hard and bog the motor, and the longer gears will let you actually use some of first with the slipper clutch more effectively.
These are the things you have to do to get the car to leave. Or, put a lower ratio rear gear (3.73 to 3.55 for example) in the rear end, and put a slipper clutch in the car. This way when you let it out it doesn't grab so hard and bog the motor, and the longer gears will let you actually use some of first with the slipper clutch more effectively.
Slipper clutch is cosmic money I guess? Which are burned quite easily while you learn to setup it
If you already have every posible thing moved to the back of the car, can you shift the motor rearwards in the engine bay at all? Even if it's only 2 or 3 inches that's still enough to help, just have to relocate the motor mounts and trans mount, and shirten the drivehsaft.
....
Lighter front suspension, brakes, wheels, anything you can do to get the thing to want to pull the front end up off the ground is absolutely going to help this situation. Hell move the drivers seat back and extend the pedals and steering column so you've sitting more in the back of the car.
....
Lighter front suspension, brakes, wheels, anything you can do to get the thing to want to pull the front end up off the ground is absolutely going to help this situation. Hell move the drivers seat back and extend the pedals and steering column so you've sitting more in the back of the car.
) But as I calculate, my own weight only makes very minor difference if moved back even 3"
03-19-2012, 06:55 PM
#24
It looks like you might have lowering springs on the car. If so, they have to go, and be replaced with some factory springs/shocks for better weight transfer.
While getting the alignment after replacing shocks, make sure they take all the negative camber out of the back they can to put it close to zero.
IF that doesnt help enough, add 100 lbs to the rear bumper. Or do both.
Al
While getting the alignment after replacing shocks, make sure they take all the negative camber out of the back they can to put it close to zero.
IF that doesnt help enough, add 100 lbs to the rear bumper. Or do both.
Al
And yes, I'm going to add weight in the rear too!
03-19-2012, 07:14 PM
#25
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If you have multiple rev limits available I have used another approach. I had three timers that started counting when I let the clutch out, each one engaged a rev limiter. The first one was 4500, second was 5500, third was 7500. I would adjust the times out to let the tires catch up without bogging the car while always running full throttle. I wish I could have had a slider clutch, but nobody made one. This method kept the boost up for me and controlled the wheel speed, albeit a little crude!
JL wants the front lower to increase pitch rotation time before the front tire hits travel limit. You would want a long spring with lots of coils that stores alot of energy.
Kurt
JL wants the front lower to increase pitch rotation time before the front tire hits travel limit. You would want a long spring with lots of coils that stores alot of energy.
Kurt
