pabsy

Hi all
lot of experience on this board!
we're taking our car this sunday to Elvington in the uk for a little drag racing (we're not dragracers)

car makes 592 RWHP weights 2200lbs (not a typo) and runs on 345 sport cups with a quaife transaxle

my questions for board members are

1what do you guess our ET and 0-60 should be??
2 help! any tips on tire pressure warm up etc?
3 will and H box versus sequential make much of a difference (we have both)

If anyone is going to be there let me know!
thanks!

trans damm

iTrader: (5)

No idea on ET, but that thing looks nasty!! Post some videos. Must be a blast to drive.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

High nines 1.4-1.5 60

Gary Z

Very interesting car. Hope you guys have fun at the drag strip. My guess is 10.3 sec @ 150 mph with a 1.7 60' for the first few runs. Better after some experience controlling the launch. Good luck, and please post results.

pabsy

Tks
Total bust 63 degrees damp track and wheel spin only stopped in 4th gear ...
No tire warm up and we jus let the tire pressure down a little
We were fastest in unlimited type class at 12.3 pathetic !

we don't have a split brake system so we can't spin warm the tires, also what tire pressure is best
Any suggestions were really looking for a single digit car

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

Holy ****! A damn go-cart with LS POWA! My GOd man! your nuts! LOVE IT

Gary Z

A line-lick (front-only brake) is not needed to heat the rears. The technique takes a little practice but is very easy once you get the hang of it. Roll through the water box and then stop. Start the wheels spinning in second gear - the wheels need to spin at a speed equivalent to 60mph (100 kph) or so to effectively heat the tires. When spinning at high speed, the tires generate almost no thrust. As soon as the wheels start spinning move your clutch foot to the brake pedal. Light pressure on the brakes will keep the car from moving forward while the engine overpowers the rear brakes. This doesn't hurt the rear brakes at all. During a five-second burnout the brakes absorb much less energy than they do in a high-speed stop. If the rear slides too far sideways, get off the throttle - abort the burnout. Heating the tires will help some. A dry track will help more. Drag racing on a damp track is pretty much pointless.

In general, drag racers run much lower pressure in the driven wheels. Somewhere around 20-22 psi is probably a good range to start experimenting.

Don't give up. Your car is capable of impressive quarter-mile performance.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

Don't be afraid to add a little weight, what kind of tires are you running? As for the tire pressure, that really depends on the track.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

I would guess it might run a 2.0 in the quarter? That thing should be crazy if you can hook.

pabsy

Garyz Thks for detailed response very useful
Were looking to be in the 9's and under 3 0-60, we'll also be a nurburgring oct 8th and looking for a sub 7 min lap... So high hopes

I'll post vids in a couple days, car will have body eventually in silver carbon fiber it has a/c currently! Basically a street LMP or lighter version of the mid-engine Vette GM never built

We ran without electronic aids and a driver with no drag experience , jus having a go

It would run a lot better with launch control and traction, it's amazing that it still spins a the top of 3rd but with 700 crank and 2000 odd lbs it would so it really needs electronics

We're doing the electronic aids now using the vette PCM and body control computers, vette uprights brake sensors and carbon ceramic ZR1 brakes
We've taken a C6 loom, engine and transmission harness and hooking it all up so technically it's all from one system and should work still it's complicated, we're using HP tuner and considering getting a GM scanner, the only non Vette electronics are our own twin fuel pumps set up and Chevy Sonic column (cos it has electric P/S)

Any electronics help would be VERY much appreciated!

Fex77k were running Michelin pilot sport cups in 345
Custm2500 what do you mean 2.0 in the quarter
Motors stock LS9 withe headers cats and an slight under drive pulley for a little more boost

Gary Z

Knowing you are contemplating 7 min ring laps makes it seem a bit presumptuous to be offering advice. I can barely watch videos of ring laps.

The easy way to meet your quarter-mile target is with drag tires, not electronics. For drag racing, traction works better than traction control. My 10-sec Camaro does 0-60 mph in something like 2.7 seconds with no electronics. But drag racers usually aren't concerned with 0-60 mph. The standard measure of launch performance is time to 60 feet. This is the 60 on the drag racing time slip. You'll probably need a 1.5 sec 60-feet time to get a 9-sec quarter-mile. I don't know if TC can do that with your road racing tires. It should be easy with drag tires.

pabsy

Wow a 10 sec camaro!! How much hp in that thing and how much do the tires help you think time wise ?
Very Interesting on the issue of tc, so do pros use it?. I think cos it was damp and cold it got us thinking that way
No drag tires for us, we want all this to work on a daily street tires, and regular street guys talk 0-60 we even geared our transaxle to get over 60 in first so there's no gear change
We also have a sequential with flat shift to try that's coming in in a couple weeks

Yes the ring target is slightly ambitious, I think it's us being presumptions not you! But we have manual shock winders that allow us to drop the height to around 2" we have true underfloor ground effects and massive front / rear picnic table wings, that track is all about the aero, we also have record holding driver (we think) and that doesn't hurt, scary stuff were expecting 210-215? On the last and longest straightaway before the pits

Gary Z

My Camaro (no big deal) has approximately 550 whp with 125 of that provided by nitrous oxide. The tires, Mickey Thompson 26x11.5-15 bias-ply ET Streets, are essential. My 60' time would be 2.2 sec with street radial tires so the tires save seven tenths of a second in the first 60 feet and at least two seconds for the quarter mile.

I don't know much about professional drag racing but I know that most do not use electronic traction control. My guess is that a TC system is not the way for you to go. It certainly would not be possible for a small group to quickly develop a custom TC system. You may be able to adapt a Corvette TC system to your car if you are using a GM powertrain controller but it will not give you launch performance equal to good drag tires. I think your driver needs to be the traction control system. I'm not going to tell you how to slip the clutch. We drag racers have our secrets too.

MaxxMitchell

iTrader: (15)

Given your weight/HP, if you could get the car down the track it should see some solid 9 sec passes at 145+. But that would take 1.3x 60fts, a lot more practice, and a drag specific tire.

11s at 135+ is more realistic for a vehicle with that many compromises. It does look awesome and I bet it is a blast to drive.

Any plans for a body?

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

I want videos

LS2-240z

Drag racing is all about the tire and its compound. But, you are kind of boxed in because of the way the car is built. The car won't run fast without a slick of some kind. With a drag radial you will be breaking axles and ruining your clutch on a regular basis. You may have more durability with a bias ply slick, but then you are gonna get scared with the way bias ply slicks (matched with bias ply front tires) kind of float back and forth going down the lane. You are gonna need to work on spring rates too. In otherwords, your car will probably not live up to its power to weight potential unless you go solid axle and, in this day and age, an automatic. You've got a million more variables to control compared to the average good old boy with a Nova, 383, 9-inch and a Powerglide. That is a autocross car and will probably do great at that. Having drag raced without and with a roll-control for the front brakes: you gotta get one. Heck, installation would be easy for you since you don't have a body to wire and plumb around - $100 and a weekend and you're in business.

pabsy

vid finally:
View My Video

given the wet track and 65 degree temps i think a 12.2 isn't so bad, driver couldn't stop it spinning till 4 gear (no electronics) so i dont think it matter how much HP its making on that day, tires were stone cold too and only a couple lbs down; if you watch the vid you can see it take off 5 secs into the run

maxmitchell yea body is lmp style in silver carbon fiber dont have that yet tho

ls2-240z not sure why the way its built a problem, a mid engine should have more grip than a front engine?
axles and clutch are ok clutch its a ZR1 unit, remember this is pushing about half the weight of a regular car,
same with spring rates we have double adustable dampers now and the cars see as much side g load as rear load with the down force and the spring rate is dialled in for that.
your right on the auto an H box is slooow but we do have a sequentail with a clutchless flat shift coming later this month. i understand the quickest fix is on the tires but we want to drag the same car that gets around a circuit, havings said that michelin sport cups are sick in terms of soft / stickiness theya re basically slicks cut with a barely visible tread

we'll have the following dialed in next time to give its its best shot
pro driver / dry track / warm day / warmed tires / lowered pressure / launch control / sequential clutchless flat shift
still on the barely legal pilot sport cups not drag slicks tho

is that all enough to shave 2.3 seconds off and get it in the 9's? dunno i hope so / think so, 1 rwhp only has to push 3.8lbs wet including driver

Gary Z

If this is true then you should get under ten seconds. My only experience drag racing with so-called supercar tires (Goodyear Eagle F1s) makes me doubtful. Real drag racing tires allow 7000 rpm clutch dump launches - "supercar" tires do not. Good luck and thanks for the video.

The Guy in MY 99TA

Im with Gary Z. Pick up a set of 28x10x15 full drag slicks and bolt those on and get em decently warm even and leave @ 7,000 rpm and get on down the track!

pabsy

yes def worth trying to see the difference

here the issue what if anthing can i put on a 19"x12" rim that is drag specific and keep the overall diameter to 28" or under, that is technically street legal
dont have the option of smaller rims as there are big brakes in there