25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

I need to get new straps for trailering. I have used axle straps for the last 10 years. I am thinking about switching to hooks. Let me know where you are hooking to and what type of hook you are using. Thanks

Ryan

Orange99Z

iTrader: (25)

I slide hooks in a hole in the frame on the front, just behind the tire. Axle straps on the back. I cross both front and rear straps too. It's worked fine for years

Carter01

iTrader: (11)

exactly what he said^^^^

TurboStangJON

iTrader: (27)

I'm using the holes in the front frame everyone is talking about but I use holes in the rear frame near the bumper. It's hard for me to get to the axle because the antiroll is in the way and so is the panhard.

Cheeks

iTrader: (1)

this!

BAMALS1

iTrader: (16)

Frame holes up front and axle straps in the rear for me. Watch for the ABS connector on the driver side...everytime I would unstrap mine the axle strap would always seem to hit it and it bacame unplugged.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Front frame holes, and the rear would get crossed, around the axle, towed for 1000's of miles this way on an open car with no issues.

Now the car has a hook on the front of the K member I just hook the front to on both sides, back I will just hook to the wheelie bar mounts I think, will figure that out when they're on the car. Should make it easy enough to get the straps on and off.

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

The front holes in the frame. Are you talking about the ones just behind the tires? or are there other ones? What are you using for a hook, just a j-hook or a T-hook?

The rear: I was thinking the same thing, there are holes just in front of the LCA mount. Going around the axle, I dont think I could dodge the brake lines and e brake cables.

Thanks

Ryan

Doug G

Even on my 68 I go to the frame on the front and around the axle, crossed on the rear.

I was side swiped starting at my drivers door, down the side of my truck, and the ******* went up on the trailer caving in the entire drivers side of my 68, totaling the trailer in the process.
Only one strap broke, the one he hit, and the car was said to be 6' in the air (left paint on telephone pole 7'-8' off the ground) so I have no reason to not believe them.

Do it right and don't short cut.

more pics here if you like

And idea of the forces involved....never came unhooked


still on trailer, both trailer axles broke...shity cell phone pics.



truck did much better...

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

J hook on the front, but again, now I'm using the tie down hook on the K frame.

Rear.. easy solution, ditch the ebrake cables, gets all that out of the way, and the brake lines, run them on the body so that there's just the flexible line coming down off the body to eash wheel. No more worries about those. And if you have to pull the rear it makes putting the caliper on the car, and not cracking a brake line, easy (alot less time if the rear has to come out for whatever reason)

If that's not convenient, then have a set of hooks put off the rear side of the lower control arm bracket. Easy enough to do with a piece of 3/16 plate, and then you have a goodl solid place to hook the car and not worry about your lines.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

Why do you guys cross them? I kinda thought if one broke it would pull the car to one side which would cause the 2nd strap to become loose and pretty much useless

If they were straight back in theory the car wouldn't move if one broke or came loose.....Realistically I guess they should be inspected before using them which means they should never break but **** happens.
I could be wrong but that's what I'm picturing in my head

Doug G

Rear is crossed to keep it centered since its prone to bounce and the front being straight also helps to keep it square.
Even in my accident...the car stayed on the trailer.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Fwiw I toss the straps, or start using them for light stuff only after a couple years. Use them just for strapping down atv's in the truck, stuff like that, I won't use them on the car after 2 to 3 years, depending on condition. ANY freying at all, other then the very end if they were cut to be shorter, is unacceptable to me, and they get downgraded to low weight items only at that point, fwiw.

Longbob

What he said. The cars bounce more than the straps break. I have hauled for thousands of miles and never had a strap failure. My dad has hauled for many more thousands of miles with straps that are over 10 years old (I would have replaced them by now), but no failures for him either.

The cars will jostle around more than I care for if they weren't crossed at least in the rear. My 4 wheeler is in the same trailer and I cannot cross the straps for it. It is never ends in the same place it starts.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I have a couple atv locks I use to strap mine down in the trailer.. what I usually will do is air the rear tires down to 2 to 3 psi and strap it as tight as I can, then air them back up to 6, holds the back tight, front I hook to the frame, and I will stand on the front brush bar and then attach the hook, so the suspension is about 85% compressed, which keeps it pretty stable. Couple times the trailer has moved with the atv in it, it hasn't moved, fwiw.

Just how I deal with that, plenty of ways to do it. But, this method keeps it from shifting so I know when the car is in the trailer as well, the atv and car shouldn't ever come in contact with one another... at least as long as no disaster's happen anyway

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

The easiest way to hook up to the rear is to drill holes in the front faces of the shock mounts off the rear end housing that are big enough for the hooks to fit into. It will not weaken the shock mounts any and makes it super easy to hook and cross your straps. A very strong anchoring point as well. Obviously the closer the hole is to the housing, the better.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

LOL, Or better yet weld a simple d ring on the back of the shock mount...you not have a perfect tow hook. We do this all the time and man it makes towing a joke.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

What's funny? It's the simplest and best all around way to do it. Great for someone who doesn't have access to a welder or doesn't want to add rings. If you saw it you'd probably agree.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

You can get these too, I dont have a trailer but saw the AAAPlus guys using them once I think there called I, T and J hooks? They fit right into the slots on our cars. I bought a set for my friends trailer I used and there work great, alot better then just sticking a hook in the factory spots. I noticed on some friends cars there tow strap hooks are starting to rip up the holes, and bend them, And when you cross the straps it pulls the them sideways.

I didn't get them here but they work great. Fast, easy, clean to work with, and pulls on the car alot better.
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/87/Towing


I also did the same thing, but trap it down on the dyno. Alot faster and easier to hook too. Don;t have to get close the the roller, they tend to get dirty. And save a little weight on my rear end, and easier to work on the car.... less **** on it. Most of the time I put the hooks thu the side (inside) of the BMR reloc mounts. I think I drilled some 1inch holes on the sides and the back on them. I could use the shock mounts too. I braced them to the relco brackets too.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture020-1.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture015-2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture021-2.jpg

What are you guys doing to the shock on your car, tighten them up? I think most do so it dosn't beat the car up more, and added wear on them. I know some friends with faster, top of the line class cars that block them too.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

In your first picture where you have three holes cut in the front side of the factory type shock mount, picture the shock mount with only the middle hole and that is exactly what we do. It really works great.

My race car has been hauled since new with some tow strap rings on the axle housing in the rear, and some rings on the chassis in front. Nothing special. Still goes 1.02 60's like it did new with original shocks and springs lol. Some guys have rubber air bags to go under the chassis and unload the suspension.

IMO the trailer won't beat the car up. I've ridden inside mine for short distances and it rides pretty smooth.