Leeroyws6

iTrader: (4)

i ran an 8.233 with a 2.0 60 foot.i thought that was pretty cool since i have 2.73's what do you think would happen if i were to install 3.73's?or 3.90's? do you think i would shave off a full second?

ls6 intake
slp lid
pacesetter LT's
3in ORY
borla exhaust
qtp cutout
lunati 55008 hydraulic roller
241 heads(not sure if they're stock inside)
full tune
2.73 gears
SFC
boxed control arms
stock suspension
street tires
ace racing transmission stage 2
revmax 3600 stall

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Race weight and DA?
60' sucks cause of street tires... Therefore ET is a bit off. Get a set of tires and see what you run, that setup should be in the 7s.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

lemons is lying ,op you have a factory freak lol

Lee12609

iTrader: (3)

what was the rest of the slip? trap speed most importantly. i'd be mad with all them mods and still running in the 8s.

with a gear swap you'll likely see 2 tenths drop with the same 60' time. gears dont help much when you are on street tires and already have a stall.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Go to 373s and you will run slower.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Seems slow i ran a 8.227 earlier today with a 1.93 60 foot on bald street tires, stock suspension, stock stall, and 2.73's with a h/c 383 lt1.

Doug G

With 2.73's (which was fun on the street) I was 2.0 60' all day and 13.5's and not really bad since I could take 1st to 80, grab 2nd and burry the speedometer (120) having fun on the street.
Went to 3.73's and 13.2's was the best it would do
Then came motor upgrades,bigger stall,more gear,solid roller cam......

Anywho...congrats.

Leeroyws6

iTrader: (4)

so seems like some of you guys are claiming i should be in the 7's? like what?7.9?that was my goal.but i think i have some spinning issues and i need to get it retuned.i am going with Texas drivetrain performance 3.73 gears and get it retuned with some full slicks so i dont spin.
trap was 87.7
330 foot was 67 mph (i think)
DA was unsure.(whats a DA?)
so i had to have been spinning to get a 2.0 60foot.
reaction time was .047

also i think my heads are stock inside and the guy i bought it from claimed it was an ls6 intake,but not real sure of that also,so im going with a fast 90

Lee12609

iTrader: (3)

its not that you should be in the 7s, without a doubt you'd be in the 7s with radials...

i'd think 7.8ish with ideal track and tires. you'd need a 1.7x-1.8x 60' which should be easy with your converter.

6SSPEED

True Story. Radials over slicks in your case definetely. Your mph is good for 7.8s but that all depends on weather/track conditions. You may even cut a high 1.6 with your size converter.

Lee12609

iTrader: (3)

i'd save my money on the fast and just do an LS6 intake. you could spend the rest of that money on other things.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

8.233 is roughly calculated out to 12.80 which

Basic Operating RPM Range 3,000-6,500
Duration at 050 inch Lift 237 int./242 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.595 int./0.595 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112

Kinda of a big cam considering the not so big stall converter.

Gearing will help yes, but not as much a QUALITY converter, something in the mid 4k range, Circle D or in that range of converter.

An all out N/A set up would have you more in the 4.10 range, especially when your racing 1/8th mile. Some go for 4.30's on a A4 trans.

You may have a situation where the cam/converter choice is not best for the type of racing your doing. I would have step down on cam as its costly and that cost can go to the converter. Spend 300ish for a used 10 bolt with 3.73-4.10 gearing.

Leeroyws6

iTrader: (4)

so next tme i go to track im gonna do this

mickey thompson DR's
3.73 gears ( texas drivetrain performance)
and battery relocation

ws6vert02

i'm no expert at these cars by any means, but with all those mods seems lijke you should be alot faster than 8.2... my stock 02 ws6 with only a lid k&n and smooth bellows ripped off a 8.17 at 80.78 this past friday. before lid upgrades best was 8.38 at 79.5 that is on brand new street tires (nitto nt 555's)

camaro75racer

iTrader: (1)

Definitely should be faster. I went 8.3@88mph with full exhaust,slp lid,semi tune and 2.73's in the 02 camaro i recently got. After swapping to 3.73 and sticky tires i went a 7.95@89mph all this with stock converter.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Go find a dyno graph of his cam and compare it to a stock LS1 on a engine dyno.

The term your looking for is "Under the Curve" power and since he is racing 1/8th mile he is not nearly using any of that cam which is considered a top end cam. Bet it does not even come alive until 4,000+ RPMS

A mis-match converter and cam is never a good thing.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

The only "problem" with this setup is the tire selection. Can things be improved? Absolutely. But tires are demolishing the times.

An Ms4 cam if set up properly can run awesome in the 1/8.

The Guy in MY 99TA

yeah that thing should be a good bit faster... IMO anyway. thats almost a full bolt on cam only setup... I understand that low 7s are not very common but even 8.0s with stock gearing wouldnt be too fast.

I hope the gearing helps ya though. I don't think you'll see a full second drop... possibly a .3 or maybe .4 drop being that camshaft is soo big. You really need a 4,000+rpm converter and a 4.10 gear to make a cam that big work in a stock motor.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I'm gonna have to agree with this.

I have people ask me all the time how does your car run so fast, how did you get it to run 6.30's?!?!? Then when I tell them what it has done to it(cam-only and weight reduction) they are astounded and find it hard to believe as most of them have cam-only cars also.

It comes down to proper converter and cam selection. You should be using at least a 4400ish converter for that cam to shine and a 3.90 gear and if you are racing 1/8th mile almost all the time a 4.11 or 4.30 gear would be ideal as would a slightly larger stall.

If you have an overdrive trans with a lock up converter a big stall and deeper gears aren't bad at all. As soon as the converter locks at 40-45mph(granted you have a competent tuner who can get the ve table right at that mph and rpm so it doesn't buck or surge) it will drive like it is stock again.

My car when it was a N/A set-up had a 9" Circle D Billet converter that was rated to stall at 5000rpm, but in reality it flashed 5900rpm off the line. My cam made peak torque right at 5800-6000rpm so having the converter flash right to that rpm put my car right into it's peak power band instantly. Then the 4.11 rear gears and aggressive stator combination in the converter allowed the rpm's to only drop 750-850rpm during each shift.

I shifted the car at 7000-7200 rpm and through the traps in the 1/8th at 6700-6800 depending on shift points and 7100-7200 through the traps in the 1/4.

Now that I am spraying the car with a 250-300 shot I had the same 9" converter worked over by FTI. I had it restalled to where it shouild stall 4400-4500 on motor on launch and still flash to 5800-5900 on a 250-300 shot. This will keep it in the same powerband it loved so much and worked so well on motor. The stator isn't as aggressive in this one because the nitrous will help pull the motor's rpm back up through the gear change. It should still only drop 850-900rpm during shifts.

It's all about matching your car's power band and amount of power to it's drivetrain parts and components.

In a street car you are trying to balance a nice driver and performance.

In a race car this is easier to do as it's only about all out performance.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

A 9" converter is NOT the proper choice for a low HP application.