deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

Car is the 00' in my sig, it's making 43x to the wheels through a 4k stall auto......Should I be running the TR6's or 5's? It has Tr6's in it now but was wondering

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Debatable IMO.

If N/A in most situations the TR55's should be fine. I am still running those, not as much power but again it really depends if your seeing Knock retard when you log driving data. Have you or your tuner seen any such issues??

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

If you know how to read plugs, shut the car down after a pass and pull a couple. They will tell you weather they are too cold or not. I would think you would be fine with 6's.

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

It's not debatable.

The TR55 is both the wrong heat range and gap for his application.

I have a nearly identical combo (similar setup, power, and track times). Use the TR6s.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

TR6's for sure, could possibly use a 7 depending on your compression and still be safe as well.

SSdreamz

iTrader: (3)

hmmm thats got me thinking now. i dont know how to read the plugs, so what would you all rec for me? H/C/ LS6 intake, full exhaust, M6 471/467 to the wheels 11.7-1 compression

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If your not showing any KR then your fine. If anything the PCM is over sensitive when it comes to pulling timing.

Everyone has their preference and yes I AM debating.

I did run TR-6's in a 383 LT1 years ago. Never had an issue with either one. 11.25 to 1 and ran over 40 deg of timing (which was typical for that motor). The engine did not care and datamaster never showed any issues.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

As far as Plug reading is concerned. It is considered "Good Form" but on a N/A car, thats kinda pushing it but can certainly be done. I see it far more when working out a nitrous set up.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp Basic reading from NGK.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html more for racers and you have to follow the shut-down / tow so you can pull them, number and read.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog...3&product=3828 wanna get crazy?

My opinion and that is all that it is that you should be more than fine. Especially if your not pulling timing. Do plug test if your really concerned.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I run TR6s in mine 10.8:1 6 liter that runs 11.40s at 3700+ lbs. They stay clean and look good when I pull them out. I have wondered if I could get away with a TR5 though. I may try them just to see if it idles better in cold weather.

06X6spdGTO

iTrader: (6)

NGK TR55 in an N/A combo on pump gas would be fine in my opinon.

you can run too cold of a plug!

Run IT-24's in the boosted car, NGK tr55 in the H/C/I Z06 463/416 27* @ WOT No KR.

Friend runs NGK tr55 in H/C/I 02 LS1 453/420wtq 29* of timing @ WOT no KR

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

If his KR is turned off or sensitivity turned all the way down how will it catch it?

IMO KR is useless at least in my world it is. If your car knocks it's most of the time too late.

Read the plugs and it will tell you for sure! What is 10 minutes of taking them out? Maybe 15?

I agree with the LT1 timing though, they have a much less efficient chamber which needs more timing to make the same torque.

I'd say anything above 11:1 CR would really need a TR6. When you start getting up into the high 11.7-11.8 you might even could use a projected tip 7 heat range plug. This is N/A not power adder either.

A colder plug will not hurt performance contrary to popular belief also, if anything is amiss after the colder plug swap in the idle or during driving adding a couple degrees of timing in cruise regions and idle solves this problem 9/10.

Curious what are IT-24's? I hope that isn't a projected tip.

06X6spdGTO

iTrader: (6)

Denso Iridium IT-24 for the boosted car.

My 2006 Pontiac GTO cam with 11.0:1 Compression LPE added the blower and NGK TR6 plugs.

The idle and cruise zones you are talking about by going to a colder plug is actually picked up by the PCM as KR when the cylinder temps arent as high. Add as much timing as you wish but the computer will still tend attempt to Retard the timing.

Only way around it is to Lean the car out a bunch at idle and cruise, creating a higher cylinder temp for the colder plug. Only problem there is if your using LTFT you will build a positive value and add fuel to your PE equation missing your target AFR @ WOT and making less power. Next way around this is to change the Stoich equation in the PCM and figure out a new PE equation for WOT.

Or tune in Open Loop...

Seems like a lot of work to run a colder plug. Like you stated 45mins to 1hour of tuning or 10-15mins to change the plugs back...........

Not saying the NGK TR55 to NGK TR6 would be too cold, as it probly wouldnt make any difference at idle/cruise.

Just dont want others to think they could go out and start putting NGK TR7's in becuz big compression and HP cars use them...


Personally if the stock PCM isnt picking up KR and you havent adjusted the settings I would say you are fine, as its pretty damn sensitive. Especially the Internal Knock sensor application GEN III

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Valid Points. Like said its up the owner. I threw in TR6's for a time, in the LT1 car and felt either way I was fine. But no expert here. Just opinion.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

As I understand it, spark plug heat range selection is not all that complicated. The plug has to be hot enough to keep itself clean, but cold enough so that it does no damage itself or cause pre-ignition.

I have read people saying if you don't have the exact right heat range spark plug you will lose power. I think a lot of that is BS. If you have pre-ignition you would lose power or if you have a fouling or fouled plug you will lose power. Beyond that, I just don't see plug heat range having a measurable effect on power.

06X6spdGTO

iTrader: (6)

If all u want is more power out of the plug, with no concern for plug life. Cut the electrode back and run a big gap! Place the plug accordingly in the combustions chamber by marking the body with a magic marker to verify placement.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Leaning it out would be the next step, but usually as I said 9/10 it will work enough to help get the tip temp back to where it was with the hotter plug, kinda like you said with opening the gap all the way up, more spark.

I really can't see the cylinder temperature changing though from a colder plug the only thing to my knowledge that changes heat wise from a colder or hotter plug is the tip of the plug.

Kinda like you said again to change the cylinder temperature drastically fuel mixture needs to be adjusted, but I agree with the most part of what you said.

firehawk 385

That is correct

gs462

iTrader: (4)

What would you guys suggest for my new motor 370 lq4, 11-1, fully ported
799s, ls6 intake, BBK LTs, 42 # injectors.


Thanks in advance.

06X6spdGTO

iTrader: (6)

Tr55's ^

xpndbl3

iTrader: (23)

TR6s for sure on that combo. No reason to run a hot plug when a colder one will do, you will have a safer tuning window on the colder plug. We don't have issues street driving 8s or 9s on high compressions motors either though.