03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Been awhile since posting on here. Been busy with my daughters racing program that I never get mine car out of the garage anymore. Had this past weekend free and decided to take it to the track and play around. I am looking for some direction on my setup. I will try to post as much info as possible and just looking for some opinions to help get rid of some nasty wheel hop.

27 * 10.5 full slicks set at 11 psi
leave off of 2 step at 6k
rear shocks set at 4ext and 6 comp
front shocks set at 2 ext and 9 comp
tq arm 2nd hole from bottom.
Stock rear springs
strange da shocks all the way around with 275 front springs

Car wants to wheel hop badly (yet 8 sec cars are getting traction)
Change shock settings to 1 ext in front and 2 ext and rear
Was better but still seems to be hitting the tires too hard. Was able to make a full pass this way but still not right.

I see alot of slower 6 sp cars pulling the tires yet I can't hook up unless I run alot of weight in fuel tank and shocks set to almost full soft on extension.
I am running a short tq arm and was wondering if going up a hole would help?

At the point of swapping in a th400 but would like to make my current setup work as I see alot of others have. Again I do not get to the track very often with this car so do not worry about giving up your secrets just looking for some advise. Thanks in advance.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Th400 will solve 99% of your issues... if you're even considering it I would do it and be done with it. Racing the car will be alot more fun.

98blueSScamaro

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like you need a little bit of wheel speed and a little more transfer. wish you had some vid of it

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

How would I go about accomplishing that? More air psi and tighter ext up front?

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

put more air in the tires.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You have the shocks too soft, which is allowing the rear and car up flop all over the place.. I would start by putting the rears at 7/7 and the fronts to 4/8 and air the tires to 13 and see what that gets you. But if you're a once a month, or less track guy and font drive the car a lot or at all just th400 the thing... Auto cars you can race and enjoy stick cars are something you constantly work on

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I do not drive the car at all. Sits under a car cover for most of the time. Would liek to start taking it out more. Street driving right now in non-existent.

Longbob

I don't understand these wheel speed comments. This isn't a tractor pull. You do not want drag slicks to spin.

I am not a clutch guy, but I would talk to the manufacturer of your clutch and see if there is some adjustment to it where you could soften it somewhat.

These are bias ply drag slicks, right? I would adjust the shocks as suggested above and put the tire pressure at 13 lbs to start.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I had the tires at 14 psi and the shocks set in the rear to 4 ext and 6 comp and that is when the wheel hopped the worst. Let psi down to 11 and loosened shocks to 2 ext and it was better for that pass??

Longbob

Well, that answers that is the wrong direction. Try raising your torque arm one hole and it should push the instant center a bit more rearward and higher.

Jeremy@RPMTransmissions

iTrader: (12)

Do you have LCA relocation brackets? If so what hole are you running them in?

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Yes, Midwest chassis 9 inch with 4 holes. running 2nd from bottom.

98blueSScamaro

iTrader: (14)

Wheel speed has alot to do with cars that don't have slipper clutch's. It's not hard to dead hook a clutch car but yet the hard part is to hook it and keep it moving forward at a good speed with out lugging the motor down. That's where shock settings tire psi and wheel speed come into play. You want to tire to spin some and carry the car forward.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Stick car without a slipper clutch, can not dead hook... You need wheel speed or the motor will get lugged to damn near idle, totally put of the power band and now you have to let it pull from where it makes no power up into the power band. No wheel speed = you mine as well abort the run it's going to be garbage. Even an auto car can benefit from some wheel speed depending on the car, track conditions, etc.

Longbob

That makes more sense. I maintain that you don't want your slicks to spin, but rather have the slip in the clutch.

Longbob

I disagree that you ever want to intentionally spin a drag slick on a drag car. If you have problems in lugging your engine due to dead hooking then you have either the wrong converter (or clutch), gearing, etc...

Spinning your tires will alter your reaction time and affect your dial. Radials are worse on recovery than bias plys.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Short torque arm? where is it at?

Move it down to the bottom and the control arms up one hole.

The MWC short arm hits the tires extremely hard - my car went from burnouts off the 2 step to yanking the fronts after making these changes.

Wheel hop breaks **** period, fix it before you hurt something.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

Yes short tq arm in the 2nd from bottom hole. The lower the hole the harder it hits.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Nope sorry. Moving it up makes it hit harder and transfer faster, and unload faster. Moving it down softens the hit and makes it pick up more weight and keep the tires planted longer.

M6 cars and autos with hard hitting trans brakes need to use the lower holes.

Trust me I've got over 500 passes in my car with the MWC rear and short arm setup.

Try it - it'll hook, the worst case is you come back and call me an *******.....

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

That is awesome right there. How can I not make those changes after that! But I did honestly think the lower holes hit harder. When I ran the top 2 holes it would hop the front end so I moved it back down to the original 2nd from bottom setting. Eric has mentioned about the lca one hole up as you did. Thanks for the help.