Magnus

iTrader: (4)

I've done the conversion, its about 10lbs or so of savings, not much...

The problem I have is the pedal is VERY hard to push.. hey , thats manual brakes.. but now I can only brake torque the car to about 2000 RPM's when before I could go up to 3400 or so with a Yank 4400 stall.

Do you guys have similar issues?

Perhaps I need to re-blead the brakes again. I do have drums in the rear.

So far, I'm NOT liking the manual brakes. I don't think it was wroth 10 measly pounds. Takes a lot of foot work to stop the car.

mongse

iTrader: (2)

I went with a line lock for the very reason you just said.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

With my manual brakes. I don't have any problems at all. I can stall up to about 3,000 rpms but I do have strange race brakes.

Coach

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

could be something simple like air still in the lines..if you have a line lock bleed that,too, air could be hiding in there as well.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

I would try and rebleed the brakes again.

Coach

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Magnus, I have the strange drag brakes all the way around. When I first installed them I still had the power brake booster and they were way to sensitive. I then installed the manual master cylinder and they were much better. They take alittle more pressure to work than the stock set-up but the holding power is fine, I can brake stall as high as I want.
Maybe it has something to do with the drum brake set-up you have on the rear. Also maybe a proportioning valve would help to get the bias between the front and rear right. Why do you have drum brakes on the rear anyway ?

TJ

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

My car is a V6 to LS1 swap, so it came with the drums.. and I've grown attached to them.

I'll try re-bleading them.. Thanks for the tips everyone.

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Oh ok. Hope ya get it figured out ! Good luck shooting for the 10's My S/I days are over since the negative DA days are probably gone. The car is coming apart for the swap now. Got tons of stuff to do. I'm gonna try something differant than the norm. Hope it all works out, we'll see

TJ

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

Hey magnus, i would also double check the drum brakes for proper adjustment. If the are too loose then that would hurt the brake stall as well. From everything i read the drum brakes are suppose to hold quite a bit better at the line then disc due to surface area, thats what the GN guys say.

Clint

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

Clint, I do believe my drum brakes are adjusted properly. I've become a master at the drum brakes now. It held fine with the booster but I probably have air in the lines.

TJ, I'm not sure how I'll do on Friday, the weather isn't the greatest anymore.. If I don't run what I want to, I will do a couple of things that are left (everythings done) during the summer and wait till next fall/spring to run some new #'s.

SStillSSmokin

May wanna check the rod that goes from the pedal to the master as well. We just went through this same exact prob. on my father in laws camaro when he converted, and he found that the rod was binding where it goes through the firewall due to the manual master having a deeper seat for the rod. I made him a new one with two bends in it (like an S) and that fixed it right up. May not be the same prob. but sounds exactly like what he was telling me, and easy to check.
Good Luck!

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Good point there. I was at Mag's W(****)house last nite and the pedal was stiff as a rock I thought it should give a little bit... it barely moved.

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Magnus, did you drill a hole 1" higher on the pedal ? That hole an inch higher gives it a better angle of attack.

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

I did not drill a hole 1" higher. My kit did not come with instructions, I did not know I was supposed to drill a hole.

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Cool that's your problem then, drill the hole 1" higher. That should help !!

SStillSSmokin

That should do it! Asked my father in law about it last night, and he said that the rod wasn't hitting on anything, just that it was lower than the piston in the master, so it was pushing the piiston up, and in, instead of straight in. We already had the rod out of the car,at my shop, so it was easy for us to just make a offset rod. Drilling the hole higher will do the same thing!
Just watch out, after we fixed his, he said he almost locked the brakes up (@120) the first run because he got used to pushing hard!
Good Luck!

Hawkn01

iTrader: (1)

Magnus, did you move the hole higher yet ? Did it help your problem ?

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

Yea, I moved the hole higher and it definately helped a lot!

I'm still having braking issues though that need to be addressed. The car is not stopping like it should be.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

That's cool man.

Coach

Dyno

When converting to manual only brakes, you have to move the rod attaching point on the brake pedal to increase the brake pressure. A Mopar master cylinder is the way to go.