VandykeT/A

I've searched around I know generally speaking weight removal equals faster ET but does anybody have any before and after results of going to drag brakes at all 4 corners? I'm trying to figure out what my next investment should be.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Just curious how much will this conversion cost?
Maybe money spent better elsewhere?
I've wondered the same thing. Just haven't research enought on the cost of the Strange brakes.

95killerz

iTrader: (10)

I did the strange drag brakes in the rear and not sure the weight difference exactly but you can remove all of your ebrake cables, pull out the handle, and even drill off the brackets under the floor. I am going to switch the front to the racecraft spindles that use 3rd gen drag brakes I think it ends up being about 50 lbs saved between both sides

Mighty Whitey

I'd so once you've gutted every non sense item out of the car, and are running an aluminum block, they re probably worth the price. Until then, I'd say an aluminum block (if running an Iron block) would yield a better bang for the buck than brakes would. I know that's the route I'm going this winter, THEN I'll do brakes

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

The big thing with drag brakes is wheel fitment...

If you're buying an aftermarket rear end, it'd be worth it... Backing plates are 300+ for stock brakes, and a drag brake setup is only like 550.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Please explain the wheel fitment.....

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Caliper clearance is the major issue. Strange has by far the best brakes for weight, cost, and wheel clearance. Bolt it all together and not worry about grinding calipers or anything else like that.

A complete Strange rear brake kit is only 23.7 pounds. A oem single rear rotor is 23 pounds itself, so its a pretty simple answer from there. The best thing of all is you are reducing rotating weight, which equals free horsepower! Its about a 45 pound reduction total for the rear.

The Midwest Chassis, Inc spindles, uppers, and lowers, along with the Strange front brake package will reduce upwards of 90 pounds, not including the k-member.

I would bet it is possible to shave off a tenth or so with the 135+ pound reduction(front suspension, front and rear brakes), being most of it is rotating weight. Just the rotating weight is about 65 pound reduction, which is huge.
Now if you do even our mild steel k-member(45 pound reduction) and a manual steering kit(20+ pound reduction, and add a set of our engine mounts and bumper supports for an additional 115 pounds and the gains will be even better!

Midwest Chassis has the lightest components, the best quality, and the best prices. Give us a call!

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

^^^Man you're making my Christmas list very expensive! Viking shocks, front and back Strange brakes with upper and lower A arms and spindles.

What's the part number for the strange brakes for a 12 bolt in an f-body? I cant tell which one off of Strange's site.

The Guy in MY 99TA

My buddy just did Midwest k-member, lower a-arms, race craft spindles, strange brakes all around and pulled all of the ac out and dropped .4 from a pb of a high 11.20 to a 10.87 on motor. It's a sbe car.

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Ya, but that A/C stuff is HEAVY! I'm sure that taking that out helped the most.

The Guy in MY 99TA

wasn't as much weight loss in the a/c as it was the k-member, brakes and spindles.

BAIN

iTrader: (5)

What you are still here? You ever get the TA going again?

The Guy in MY 99TA

lol yeah I'm still around!

getting back in the mood to work on it. my buddy and I are about to purchase a lift and install it at his place and the car is going over there and its gunna get a complete make over. The motor is gunna stay about the same. just gunna pull it down and check it out(it HAS been together for 7 years now). gunna mini tub, cut all the factory radiator supports out and replace with tubing, gut the inside and change the interior color(go to black instead of the tan).