26" or 28" DR's
 

00 H/C/I camaro with 200 shot running through a 4l60e with a vig 3600 and 3.73's (10 bolt). Already searched old threads and just got a whole bunch of mixed answers. Not to worried about motor performance. This will be on a 15x10 rim. Rev limiter set at 6800rpm.

My vote would be for the 28". I've always had real good luck with those; ran them on several vehicles over the past decade including currently on our C5. I think the 26" looks too short in the wheel opening and believe the 28" hooks better as it has more rollout. Just my personal opinion but we 60' 1.5x with a 370 rwhp bolt-on car and 3.90 gears and Yank SS4000. On the nitrous I hope it to be in the 1.3x's.

Scott

What do you think you will trap? With a 26" tire, you've got 141mph in third gear.

You don't think the 3.73 gears in a auto will hold me back running 28's? Think the 26's will go nicely with 3.73's. Hope to trap in the low 130 range.

Right now I'm pulling 1.52-1.59 60ft's on a 26" mickey DR with 22lbs in them.

You're pretty much going to be doing the same thing I am except I'll probably under 200 and will have a 3.42 gear. I plan to run a 26" hoosier DR. I had good luck with them in 17" form and pulled 1.5's with my vette. If I find the limit with them I'll switch to a 28 but there are a lot of people running 9's with a 26 radial.

I'd use a 28s if your running a 200 shot. with 26s you might not have enough gear with that much nitrous.

+1

I agree with this ... ^^^

Cool, thanks everyone. This debate has been on my mind all night. 28's it is.

Last question. The track I go to is about a 40 mile ride to and from my house. ET street radials or ET pro's. I know the streets are bout to be phased out so probably would better to go with pro's or wait till the ET street R' s come out?

28s here. Almost identical to your combo except I don't know what you make on motor. It is hard to say what rpm you will be at on a full pass on 200 due how effecient or not the stall is. I can tell you I turn about 67-6800 on 200 through the 1/4. Put it all together and plan on sending the stall out to be restalled once you get some consistent passes on the car. I think you will need more stall. Mine is 4000 ptc. It was a VIG I had restalled by PTC. I do also run the ET radials old style. I would not drive that far to the track on pros. It will shorten the life of them greatly. Or drive to the track on street tires and swap rears at the track.

I have the same dilemma. My track is 50 miles away. I drive to the track with my street setup and change them at the track. Radial pro's are the best damn tires I've ever used. I'm not sure if that helps.

295/55/15 (28) on my car. Trex cam, stock heads, 4000 stall, 3.90 gear, 150 shot. No track time yet but a 28 was my choice.

With the 3.73's and 28's. Do you think it will be a dog off the line say if I run empty on the bottle and want to make a n/s pass?

It might be, I know on my car NA, it didn't seem to matter 26 vs 28. But on the other hand I'm guessing I make a little more power and stall around 4200. I had an opportunity to test a set of 26's from a friend before I bought a set of tires.

Most cars tuned for a 200 shot are a dog on the motor. Unless you run a LNC2000 box or something similar to adjust timing on the fly. My old LS1 car was a TURD on motor, but ran 10.30s on a 200 shot full weight with leather interior.

Will have 2 separate tunes, 1 n/a tune and a nitrous tune through hp tuners pro

Do you know about the intake air temp mod?

Yeah I heard about but really never did any research on it.

When Nitrous system is activated a relay switches the sensor from normal mode to a 560 ohm resistor. It tells the computer that you have about 150 degrees of intake air temp. Just tell the computer to retard timing when it sees 150+ air. If you live in an area that might have temps higher then 150 normally, than change the value of the resistor.