Jc803

iTrader: (2)

@Renes Rage, you mentioned finding a BCM pinout. I found one but its 5 separate pages and in PDF. Not sure how to post those so I'll just name everything.

Interior lamps
Theft shock sensors
Key resistor
Low coolant indicator
Fog lamps
Park lamps
Vehicle speed input
Starter relay control and enable
Fuel enable
Horn
Seat belt indicator
Trunk release and indicator
Key signal
Door open indicator
Door locks
Security indicator
Power windows

There are multiple wires for some of those, I just gave the systems the BCM runs. Also there is a Power Window Control Module that ties in with the BCM so it looks like rewiring those will be a little more work than I thought but still easily doable.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

I've got a pinout, just don't know how to post it. But you listed about everything.
I'll post how to wire the windows tomorrow.
Not hard at all. Just want be no express on the drivers side.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Yea I figured the express would go away. Looks like its integrated into the PWCM.

Btw I just noticed that you're 10.11 @ 131. That must be one hell of a 60ft. I'm trapping 125 but 1.3 seconds slower

358chevycamaro

iTrader: (10)

I'm about to start doing this as well once I quit cutting and welding everything that weighs more than an ounce. Lol I'm in for a guide on how to wire the windows!

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

That 10.11 was with a 1.42 60'.
Now I'm traping 134+ mph and 1.38 60's but still in the 10 teens. Don't know why no better ET??? Still need to get that 60' down to low 1.30's.
Ran a 6.43 on a 1/8 mile track last. Should be close to a 10.0x. Still working the bugs and tune out. Car has only about 40 passes on it.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Window wiring. This is for your factory switches.
Take your hot from your fuse to the Brown wire on your switch.
Black wire on switch to good chassis ground.
Gray wire off switch to Brown wire @ drivers motor.
Dark Blue wire off switch to Dark Blue @ drivers motor.
Light Blue wire off switch to Dark Blue @ passengers motor.
Tan wire off switch to Brown @ passenger motor.

FirstGen F-Body

iTrader: (3)

sry bout the wrong info i was looking at a bcm wiring diagram on prodemand and it said fuel pulse, but if you go to the fuel pump diagram the fuel pump relay is grounded threw the pcm but controlled by the bcm
id run a switch for anti theft purposes

Pony Exp.305

iTrader: (6)

I done it what Rage said on my weekend Camaro without the key switch..No problems

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Here you go Trevor.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Wi does are easy just a dpdt momentary toggle, power to the outside 4 poles, and motor on the center 2 lugs, flip the power on the outer terminals from one side to the other and done. 20 amp switch is plenty to run one window motor just fuse the power to the switch that's all.

danheller88

About this fuel pump relay....I am deleting my BCM, I am going to ground the starter solenoid wire(yellow/black) that is going to the BCM. I am going to disable VATS through the PCM. I thought the car would be good to run after that?

Now I am hearing I need to give 12v to the fuel pump relay? On the diagram it shows the fuel pump relay sending a dark green/white wire to the PCM(labeled fuel pump relay control). There is also a dark blue wire going from the PCM to the BCM(labeled theft deterrent fuel enable). Which one of these do I have to give the 12v to, if either of them?

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

I found the answers to all my questions but I never updated this thread. Sorry about that but here you guys go.

Danheller88 - To get the fuel pump working without the BCM just find all those wires running to behind the rear drivers side seat. There are 3 gray wires. Take the biggest one and put it on a switch then the other side of the switch to a 12v source, OR splice the gray wire into a switched 12v source (key on). I suggest a switch because the problem with splicing into a switched 12v source is the fuel pump will constantly run with key on engine off. Not to mention half the switched source wires turn off while the starter is activated which will cut your fuel.

For the starter just find the coil side wire to starter relay and splice it into the starter wire coming from the key, that way you'll bypass the BCM, OR run a wire from a switch directly to the starter, and the other side of the switch to a 12v source and put a 15amp fuse between starter and switch. Once again I recommend a simple switch because its MUCH easier than undoing your whole harness just to get to the starter relay wire.

For power windows buy two momentary polarity reversing 12v toggle switches. Part number for the one I have is 28PR-MOM from Gama Electronics. Just put the two wires from window motors on "motor", and run power and ground. Put a 20amp thermal circuit breaker in the power wire. Use 10 or 12ga for all 4 wires.

For everything else you guys are on your own. Those are the only things I kept from the BCM.

danheller88

I have my whole harness stripped down in the care already. I think I will be making a switch panel now.

If I run a switch to the starter then the other side to the ground, there will be no key involved what so ever, correct?

You removed everything from the whole star connector on the driver side? I have been working on the passanger side, I haven't even gotten to that yet.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

The starter itself is a ground so running a wire from starter to switch, then switch to ground nothing will happen. Other side of switch has to go to a 12v source to activate the solenoid. But you're right, you wont need a key to start. BTW I suggest a momentary switch instead of a toggle. I had a toggle for starter and knew to turn it off after car was running but dumb asses like the dyno operators would leave it on and have the starter running to 7000 rpm.

Originally when I made this post I just wanted to remove the BCM and all those wires but since then I've removed every single wire in the car, installed the Holley Dominator ECU, then rewired the couple things I wanted to keep. Heres some pics of my switch panel. You can buy the plate from 6litereaterdesigns.com or make your own out of sheet metal.

Not quite done yet. Still have to add switches for the lights and turn signals but you get the idea.

danheller88

Yea I think I am going to do the same thing. I want lights, windows, running car, hatch, and stock gauges if possible. Everything else is removed.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Just follow the directions I gave a couple post ago and you'll be good for fuel, starter, and windows. Hatch is easy and can keep the factory switch. Then get some diagrams for the gauges.

To be completely keyless you'll also have to wire in a switch for the PCM. It has a constant power wire to keep info like fuel trims stored, but it also has a switched wire to turn it on which turns on all your sensors. Dont want that one always hot because the heated o2s will drain your battery.

danheller88

I have all the diagrams, I am going to trace out the PCM you just discussed. I am interested in being keyless.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Use a toggle switch to pull your ignition relay in. That will power up the PCM.

danheller88

When you guys remove the harness and bypassed the BCM. What did you do with the other half of the star connector not attached to the interior harness...? Where does it go?

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

I honestly cant remember since my main focus was starter, fuel, and windows. Everything else was trash to me.