guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If you've geared your car for best performance with a 4.10/26" tire combo wouldn't changing to a 28" tire result in worse times. 4.10/28 is taller than 3.73/26.

F-body.org/gears is back online

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

Exactly, that's why I didn't comment haha. I could get a beefier sidewall with a smaller wheel right?

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

drag radial with a stick = picking up parts and shitty 60' bias ply is the only way to go. I go mid 1.2x 60's on a 28x10.5 stiff slick

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i agree. i broke my 9" center section this year running 295/45/17's. didn't even get to make 1 solid pass before it puked its guts. it is either a spin fest or it actually hooks and bogs. and that is on my slow *** high 10/low 11 heap.prolly throw my 28-10.5 stiffs back on before next trip to the track.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

26 and 4.10 means a 28 and a 4.33. I would put a 28 on before a 26 every single time, regardless of power level if the tire will fit and run the needed gear. Just work that much better especially when the prep sucks.

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

I just picked up a pair of 26x11.5x16 mt cheater slicks that I am hoping work better than the bald and dry rotted mt drag radials I tried my last time out.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Put tubes in those because the sidewalks are really really soft. 16 lbs of air. I ran those for a set. Work better than a radial just heat them up good.

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

I was hoping I could get away with out running tubes

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

I run M/T 26-10.5-16 bias plies without tubes and they're fine, no spinning on the rim. If you run tubes you have to screw the tire to the rim. IMO running tubeless is safer, if you pick up a screw you get a slow leak, with a tube you get a blowout.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you're not screwing these to the rim they are absolutely going to move on the rim if your car even remotely hooks. They all do. Hell I have a buddy that's got drag radials slipping on double beadlock wheels, go figure that one out.

I'll tell you the same thing I tell everyone. Screw them to the rim, with any ET street bias ply you need to run a tube due to the sidewalls being so soft. Any other m/t tire, especially the S sidewall tires I would put a coating of dish soap on the inside of the tires and let it dry, so that the tires themselves won't want to leak down, still screw them, and just silicone the screw holes, put the screw into the tire, pull out, fill with silicone and reinsert the screw. Do this right and they will not leak with the screws. Tubes with all the others, your call. The et street bias ply have a very soft sidewall... without the tube it's very easy to crush the sidewall so bad that the rim just about makes, or will make contact with the track surface. Slow motion video a car running them without a tube and you will be shocked what you see.

Bitemark46

+1. I had regular 26x10's and after 2 passes they moved over 2 inches. So I put 8 screws in on each side with the screws on the outside lined up with the screws on the inside. I then used liquid nails or any clear silicon substance when I put the screws in.

I can go a whole day at the track and not have to put more air in them. Yeah after a couple of days they're flat but I swap out to DR's when I get home.

OP if you're gonna try and get a DR to hook with a stick car a double adj shock will help a ton to control the rebound. Also ballast will help as well.

-Mark

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Unless you're running a slipper style clutch, you are never going to have good results with a radial and a stick setup. You can not hold the tire planted and even if you got it to leave the 1-2 shift will be enough to unload and spin the tires badly.

Don't waster your time. Deal with the slick tire sashay, just hold the wheel strait and it will go strait... And enjoy your time slip.

Bite mark did you coat the inside of the tires with dish soap? That may help your leak down issues dramatically

Bitemark46

No I didn't. I actually never heard of that before. The next set of 28's I put on I'll make sure to do that. Thanks.

-Mark

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

i would run tubes and stiff sidewalls just for the added stability. I ran 12-14#'s in standard 28x1050's without tubes and when my car started getting into the mid-upper 130's it swayed on the big end much more than I cared for

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I ran the 3055s tire at a lot more mph then that and it was fine. The stuff sidewall tire will run about the same as the standard tire with a tube. I ran the stuff side wall tire @ 12-14 lbs depending on track

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the replies guys. Definitely taking notes.

What wheel size do you guys recommend? This will be going on a C5 Z06. I plan on buying a drag only set up. Skinnies ect..

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

What would be a good starting tire pressure on 26x11x16 et street? I have read any where from 20-11psi.

axe murderer

iTrader: (3)

I'd look @ some threads on YB, Jason from MT is the tire moderator.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/fo...play.php?f=107

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

I run 26x10x15 Et drag, which is actually a 26.5 inch slick. Had to screw the back side as the wheels spin on the tires. No tubes so theyre super light on the 15x10 Billets. I'm very happy with them, sure I'd get better results w/ a 28 inch tire but I'd have to hammer mod the wheel wells & roll the fenders & mine is lowered 1.25 inches so that might be a problem. They do leak since I added the screws so I have to add air once a week.

vetteboy2k

iTrader: (5)

Please run skinnies.
We would run those tires below 10psi at times when necessary in our c5 corvettes which are typically lighter than other cars. So, the weight of your car should be considered.
If your car is setup well and you have full control over the vehicle and feel safe then I might start around 11.5 psi cold if your car weighs 3300lbs or lighter. If you aren't fully confident you could start higher and work your way down. Some guys like to start higher and air down until they feel they sway too much and stop there. On a cold track you will notice the sway much more. The track prep and your launch style will need to be factored in too and of course suspension.