1000+ street/strip 98 ss project car
#802
So the new shocks and springs seem to be OK.
#803
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#804
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But yes, I made 7 passes on saturday and got them real close. Was still coming up about 250-300 feet out
So I tightened the limiters and left it with 2-2.25" of total travel.
First hit still launching on 5.3/5.5 psi of boost and 3,150 rpm
Now it all makes sense. I was trying to harness a 153 mph 1/8th car this whole time. I guess thats why it would do 145/145 pedalling the **** out of it. I expected a couple mph but not 8. Thats my happiest part. Maxed the turbo out finally. 27 psi is all that it will make past 7,000 rpm.
It spikes to 29 at the 1-2 shift and then slowly comes back down to 27 in high gear.
First gear is 19 psi by .5 seconds and 27 peak at 7,000 then falls to 24.5
Im guessing its back pressure. 388 inches through a s400 chassis and going 182.x is pretty badass I guess.
So I tightened the limiters and left it with 2-2.25" of total travel.
First hit still launching on 5.3/5.5 psi of boost and 3,150 rpm
Now it all makes sense. I was trying to harness a 153 mph 1/8th car this whole time. I guess thats why it would do 145/145 pedalling the **** out of it. I expected a couple mph but not 8. Thats my happiest part. Maxed the turbo out finally. 27 psi is all that it will make past 7,000 rpm.
It spikes to 29 at the 1-2 shift and then slowly comes back down to 27 in high gear.
First gear is 19 psi by .5 seconds and 27 peak at 7,000 then falls to 24.5
Im guessing its back pressure. 388 inches through a s400 chassis and going 182.x is pretty badass I guess.
#807
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#809
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Saw the original post on Facebook and followed the link here. Had a few questions.
what was your best time on the rod piston l33? Was the block filled at all? (Mines a diamond 3.8 bore with lunati rods and dart heads)
How was the power band with the ljms stage 2 and proflo? I'm going to be swapping to a bigger turbo cam over the summer. Mines small. Made peak power at 6200 and dropped off at 6400.
why swap to a Canton from a Moroso?
What point did you switch to a ms3?
all the mods on the sig and I did 690 rwhp on 14 psi on 100% pump 92.
4l80, steel DS, 28"s, 9", 18 degrees timing and unlocked converter. Going to redo some stuff over winter and turn it up.
your original rod piston l33 build is what caught my attention. Dont have the wallet to redo everything with a dart block lol.
so you kept the stock hatch? Didnt go fiberglass?
what was your best time on the rod piston l33? Was the block filled at all? (Mines a diamond 3.8 bore with lunati rods and dart heads)
How was the power band with the ljms stage 2 and proflo? I'm going to be swapping to a bigger turbo cam over the summer. Mines small. Made peak power at 6200 and dropped off at 6400.
why swap to a Canton from a Moroso?
What point did you switch to a ms3?
all the mods on the sig and I did 690 rwhp on 14 psi on 100% pump 92.
4l80, steel DS, 28"s, 9", 18 degrees timing and unlocked converter. Going to redo some stuff over winter and turn it up.
your original rod piston l33 build is what caught my attention. Dont have the wallet to redo everything with a dart block lol.
so you kept the stock hatch? Didnt go fiberglass?
Last edited by Spectre86; 10-16-2018 at 10:36 AM.
#810
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#811
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Saw the original post on Facebook and followed the link here. Had a few questions.
what was your best time on the rod piston l33? Was the block filled at all? (Mines a diamond 3.8 bore with lunati heads)
How was the power band with the ljms stage 2 and proflo? I'm going to be swapping to a bigger turbo cam over the summer. Mines small. Made peak power at 6200 and dropped off at 6400.
why swap to a Canton from a Moroso?
What point did you switch to a ms3?
all the mods on the sig and I did 690 rwhp on 14 psi on 100% pump 92.
4l80, steel DS, 28"s, 9", 18 degrees timing and unlocked converter. Going to redo some stuff over winter and turn it up.
your original rod piston l33 build is what caught my attention. Dont have the wallet to redo everything with a dart block lol.
so you kept the stock hatch? Didnt go fiberglass?
what was your best time on the rod piston l33? Was the block filled at all? (Mines a diamond 3.8 bore with lunati heads)
How was the power band with the ljms stage 2 and proflo? I'm going to be swapping to a bigger turbo cam over the summer. Mines small. Made peak power at 6200 and dropped off at 6400.
why swap to a Canton from a Moroso?
What point did you switch to a ms3?
all the mods on the sig and I did 690 rwhp on 14 psi on 100% pump 92.
4l80, steel DS, 28"s, 9", 18 degrees timing and unlocked converter. Going to redo some stuff over winter and turn it up.
your original rod piston l33 build is what caught my attention. Dont have the wallet to redo everything with a dart block lol.
so you kept the stock hatch? Didnt go fiberglass?
I went like 8.58@159. Thats old news though. I tune a couple bottom 8 5.3 cars right now. One I helped a little on is a sbe car at 8.1@169 on an s485 and we spin it 8,000 with a sniper race holley intake and ljms 3 cam.
You do not need to fill the blocks. They are plenty strong.
I have a dart block. the canton pan was supposed to be the best pan and compared to the best for the dart block. Its a badass pan really. I just got one that was a friday afternoon pan.
Ms3 is AWESOME. Especially comparing to a stock pcm. on board 4 bar map, boost control, bump box, 2 step, theres no comparing.
It is the stock hatch 100% I just have a hard time getting nose weight now so I wanted to get a few pounds off from the rear. The window gave me .4% up front.
#812
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The power band was weak. Went flat at 7,200. Id run a stage 3 with it next time.
I went like 8.58@159. Thats old news though. I tune a couple bottom 8 5.3 cars right now. One I helped a little on is a sbe car at 8.1@169 on an s485 and we spin it 8,000 with a sniper race holley intake and ljms 3 cam.
You do not need to fill the blocks. They are plenty strong.
I have a dart block. the canton pan was supposed to be the best pan and compared to the best for the dart block. Its a badass pan really. I just got one that was a friday afternoon pan.
Ms3 is AWESOME. Especially comparing to a stock pcm. on board 4 bar map, boost control, bump box, 2 step, theres no comparing.
It is the stock hatch 100% I just have a hard time getting nose weight now so I wanted to get a few pounds off from the rear. The window gave me .4% up front.
I went like 8.58@159. Thats old news though. I tune a couple bottom 8 5.3 cars right now. One I helped a little on is a sbe car at 8.1@169 on an s485 and we spin it 8,000 with a sniper race holley intake and ljms 3 cam.
You do not need to fill the blocks. They are plenty strong.
I have a dart block. the canton pan was supposed to be the best pan and compared to the best for the dart block. Its a badass pan really. I just got one that was a friday afternoon pan.
Ms3 is AWESOME. Especially comparing to a stock pcm. on board 4 bar map, boost control, bump box, 2 step, theres no comparing.
It is the stock hatch 100% I just have a hard time getting nose weight now so I wanted to get a few pounds off from the rear. The window gave me .4% up front.
What lifters were you running on your l33 setup?
Got it. a moroso is on the list over the winter after reading a couple horror stories about the stock pan/pick up in that 8/9 second area.
when you were in the 8s with your l33, were on you the ms3 or stock ecu?
Appreciate all the info. i cant believe i read the entire thread last night. but it was pretty bad *** seeing your car go through the entire process to get where it is now.
#813
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so dipping into the 8s with a rod piston 5.3 (stock crank) isnt that far out of reach with a good setup?
What lifters were you running on your l33 setup?
Got it. a moroso is on the list over the winter after reading a couple horror stories about the stock pan/pick up in that 8/9 second area.
when you were in the 8s with your l33, were on you the ms3 or stock ecu?
Appreciate all the info. i cant believe i read the entire thread last night. but it was pretty bad *** seeing your car go through the entire process to get where it is now.
What lifters were you running on your l33 setup?
Got it. a moroso is on the list over the winter after reading a couple horror stories about the stock pan/pick up in that 8/9 second area.
when you were in the 8s with your l33, were on you the ms3 or stock ecu?
Appreciate all the info. i cant believe i read the entire thread last night. but it was pretty bad *** seeing your car go through the entire process to get where it is now.
moroso is a great plan. I had problems with the fbody. if you have clearance for a truck pan they are much better than car but very deep.
You could go 7/s with a piston rod 5.3 and an s485 at 3,000 race weight if it works.
My buddy Ive helped with has a stock bottom. never opened. ljms 3 cam and s485 running 8.1@169 on pump e85. A real simple car. 200k mile lifters.
#814
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I just read this whole damn thread. Every post. I didnt watch all the videos yet tho.
I have some questions and comments.
1) I like how you respond to each post and answer everyones questions. Thats awesome.
2) Why would you go back with the canton if you knew it had issues? Did you call canton? I would have pitched a damn fit and got another pan or my money back. You spent way to much money to have an oil pan not fitting properly.
I have some questions and comments.
1) I like how you respond to each post and answer everyones questions. Thats awesome.
2) Why would you go back with the canton if you knew it had issues? Did you call canton? I would have pitched a damn fit and got another pan or my money back. You spent way to much money to have an oil pan not fitting properly.
#815
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Thread Starter
I just read this whole damn thread. Every post. I didnt watch all the videos yet tho.
I have some questions and comments.
1) I like how you respond to each post and answer everyones questions. Thats awesome.
2) Why would you go back with the canton if you knew it had issues? Did you call canton? I would have pitched a damn fit and got another pan or my money back. You spent way to much money to have an oil pan not fitting properly.
I have some questions and comments.
1) I like how you respond to each post and answer everyones questions. Thats awesome.
2) Why would you go back with the canton if you knew it had issues? Did you call canton? I would have pitched a damn fit and got another pan or my money back. You spent way to much money to have an oil pan not fitting properly.
When I sold the engine I told the guy that bought it that it sucked and offered to keep it because I didnt want to burden him with it.
I figured since Ive had it off twice already I could get it close.
I finally have it to where only one small weld leaks and the rear seaps very slowly. I bought the engine diaper and it works awesome. Havent had a drop on or under the car since. Highly suggest it.
I called them. They said it was install error. I measured it, it was short for the block. Since its recessed it is a pain in the *** mating the front and rear covers.
If I end up keeping the car I will pull it off and weld a small piece of flat aluminum to it to make the middle portion longer.
Also go along and weld the entire inside with a bead.
It is a really well designed and awesome pan. They proved it to make power over a few other pans since it has a wide shoulder and basically eliminates windage.
#816
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Im not too good to talk to anyone. Not a grudge guy either so any infortmation I have Ill share. I had a hard time learning the past few years because getting info out of faster guys is similar to pulling teeth.
When I sold the engine I told the guy that bought it that it sucked and offered to keep it because I didnt want to burden him with it.
I figured since Ive had it off twice already I could get it close.
I finally have it to where only one small weld leaks and the rear seaps very slowly. I bought the engine diaper and it works awesome. Havent had a drop on or under the car since. Highly suggest it.
I called them. They said it was install error. I measured it, it was short for the block. Since its recessed it is a pain in the *** mating the front and rear covers.
If I end up keeping the car I will pull it off and weld a small piece of flat aluminum to it to make the middle portion longer.
Also go along and weld the entire inside with a bead.
It is a really well designed and awesome pan. They proved it to make power over a few other pans since it has a wide shoulder and basically eliminates windage.
When I sold the engine I told the guy that bought it that it sucked and offered to keep it because I didnt want to burden him with it.
I figured since Ive had it off twice already I could get it close.
I finally have it to where only one small weld leaks and the rear seaps very slowly. I bought the engine diaper and it works awesome. Havent had a drop on or under the car since. Highly suggest it.
I called them. They said it was install error. I measured it, it was short for the block. Since its recessed it is a pain in the *** mating the front and rear covers.
If I end up keeping the car I will pull it off and weld a small piece of flat aluminum to it to make the middle portion longer.
Also go along and weld the entire inside with a bead.
It is a really well designed and awesome pan. They proved it to make power over a few other pans since it has a wide shoulder and basically eliminates windage.
#817
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I did. You are right. I made a large post on facebook. They responded and wanted me to call. I called and they went over the steps how to install it. So I just hung up and let it go. It was moments of my life I couldnt get back.
#820
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I didnt sell the car quite yet! Not putting the turbo on until It dosent sell. Ill give it until new years or so. Then Ill get to work.
But I did buy it before I went fast. I seen the intake air temp rise and knew what time it was. Turbo did better than I expected but i wouldnt mind a near or even 200mph 1/4 pass for 2019. Tall order I know. But whats life without goals?
But I did buy it before I went fast. I seen the intake air temp rise and knew what time it was. Turbo did better than I expected but i wouldnt mind a near or even 200mph 1/4 pass for 2019. Tall order I know. But whats life without goals?