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Old 12-08-2018, 05:46 PM
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25.5 ? What are you doing for the floor bars ?
Old 12-09-2018, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gjohnsonws6
25.5 ? What are you doing for the floor bars ?
Im not doing anything to it unless or until it fails.
All of the fbodies I know of with 25.5 cages do not have any bar floor work.

From my understanding from the book the lower rocker bar covers it if the subframe braces are welded into it. Ive looked at 3-4 fbodies cert'd to 25.5 so far. I have the x brace out back, way more bars in the main hoop, and strut bars.

I may be mistaken, things may have changed. But Im adding like 3 gussets and it should be up to par for 25.3 minus the floor bars.

So we will see. Im not too worried for now. If it fails this spring Ill do the rest to make it a 25.3
Old 12-09-2018, 08:22 PM
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I picked up this used Chiseled 3000hp cooler and ice tank with rule 3700 pump. Im pretty excited about this! Its in excellent condition. Best deal Ive found on parts so far!



Old 12-10-2018, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackSS4thgen
Im not doing anything to it unless or until it fails.
All of the fbodies I know of with 25.5 cages do not have any bar floor work.

From my understanding from the book the lower rocker bar covers it if the subframe braces are welded into it. Ive looked at 3-4 fbodies cert'd to 25.5 so far. I have the x brace out back, way more bars in the main hoop, and strut bars.

I may be mistaken, things may have changed. But Im adding like 3 gussets and it should be up to par for 25.3 minus the floor bars.

So we will see. Im not too worried for now. If it fails this spring Ill do the rest to make it a 25.3
Its awesome that your doing all this yourself.
I gotta mention tho that you really should consider the floor bars before going that fast. And from what i see from you will accomplish your goal.
The point of the 25.5 or greater cage is for the drivers compartment to be safer from all sides.
Heres how my car is done.
Just a suggestion.
Really like seeing the updates!


1000+ street/strip 98 ss project car-sodusvr.jpg
Old 12-10-2018, 11:38 AM
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Better Picture of my car.
Picture for ctr race cars Facebook page.
1000+ street/strip 98 ss project car-lx1kbdz.png
Old 12-10-2018, 12:43 PM
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[QUOTE=06_Chevy;20014077]Better Picture of my car.
Picture for ctr race cars Facebook page.

Hell yea! It looks good!
I need a break from that **** right now lol.

Thats definitely all of the bars for 25.3 but since I already had the exhisting cage Id have to do the bars in the car or webbed through the floor since mine was welded on floor plates.
Im already really bummed out that I had to do what Ive done because its really cutting into the street car part of it.

Ill likely add the floor bars before spring. Thanks for the pictures!
Old 12-10-2018, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackSS4thgen
Im not doing anything to it unless or until it fails.
All of the fbodies I know of with 25.5 cages do not have any bar floor work.

From my understanding from the book the lower rocker bar covers it if the subframe braces are welded into it. Ive looked at 3-4 fbodies cert'd to 25.5 so far. I have the x brace out back, way more bars in the main hoop, and strut bars.

I may be mistaken, things may have changed. But Im adding like 3 gussets and it should be up to par for 25.3 minus the floor bars.

So we will see. Im not too worried for now. If it fails this spring Ill do the rest to make it a 25.3
Good to know. Did Midwest not offer a conversion kit for the cage ?
Old 12-11-2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by gjohnsonws6


Good to know. Did Midwest not offer a conversion kit for the cage ?
No unfortunately not. I was chatting with Eric not long ago and he did say they were going to offer a 25.3 pre bent/notched kit. That will be awesome but Im sure pricey.

Wolfecraft had the stuff but was quite a wait.

S&W had them in stock and I received them in a week. It was quite a bit of work. I had to put some heat in and bend a couple pieces of the main hoop to contour the ttops because I do not have a bender.
Overall for about $950 in tubing though it was a fair value considering my cheapest quote was $6,500 for the upgrade.
Old 12-11-2018, 10:48 AM
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For about $1000 you can get a air/hydraulic bender. ProTools 105 bender and dies, Swag Off-road hydraulic ram mount and a Harbor freight air/hydraulic long ram jack.

Old 12-11-2018, 07:04 PM
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[QUOTE=tug686spd;20014612]
For about $1000 you can get a air/hydraulic bender. ProTools 105 bender and dies, Swag Off-road hydraulic ram mount and a Harbor freight air/hydraulic

I should buy one! I just dont ever really bend anything. Until I need to though. Everytime I do I say it would be nice to have one.
Old 12-11-2018, 07:21 PM
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Thanks to the black friday specials Ill have some more adjustment up top!

Old 12-12-2018, 12:01 AM
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With the amount of work you do for others the bender will pay for itself pretty quick.
Old 12-13-2018, 10:31 PM
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:11 AM
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This is when you reach that point of your turbo starts looking as big as your engine . LOL. That thing is going to fly, literally. You definitely don't mess around with getting things done. If I had half the motivation to work on my car that you have, I'd be set.
Old 12-14-2018, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Launch
This is when you reach that point of your turbo starts looking as big as your engine . LOL. That thing is going to fly, literally. You definitely don't mess around with getting things done. If I had half the motivation to work on my car that you have, I'd be set.
Its been so long that Ive basically lived in the shop. I dont even feel right if Im not out there doing something. lol
Old 12-14-2018, 10:18 PM
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Looking good man. The only thing that concerns me is that right hand front tire, if that turbo creates enough heat that it can raise the tire temp by the end of a run. I'd hate to see a repeat of what happened last time. It's hard to tell from the pics how close it is. I wonder when you get the car going again if you could put a thermometer near both front tires somehow just to see if the right hand tire ever gets much hotter than the other one after a run. I know it sounds a bit dumb but what if somehow too much heat is getting into it. Because from memory you never figured out why that tire blew.
Old 12-15-2018, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Launch
Looking good man. The only thing that concerns me is that right hand front tire, if that turbo creates enough heat that it can raise the tire temp by the end of a run. I'd hate to see a repeat of what happened last time. It's hard to tell from the pics how close it is. I wonder when you get the car going again if you could put a thermometer near both front tires somehow just to see if the right hand tire ever gets much hotter than the other one after a run. I know it sounds a bit dumb but what if somehow too much heat is getting into it. Because from memory you never figured out why that tire blew.
I sent the tire to Mickey Thompson and they verified it had been cut. So Im not sure what it hit or touched. Unsure if the cut was before or after it blew. They said there was one distinct puncture from a foreign object and then the slit. I beleive the slit was after the fact because once I hit the wall it pulled the exhaust almost into the wheel.
The previous setup was in the same spot for almost 3 years.
Currently its about 15" away from the tire at rest. I am going to run aluminum piping out of the fender. Should be quite a ways away for sure.
Old 12-15-2018, 10:46 AM
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Its quite a turn of events but Im spending more time on safety haha
Old 12-17-2018, 03:22 PM
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Good god this bitch is gonna fly
Old 12-19-2018, 06:36 PM
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I finished the tubing finally. Ended up moving the turbo towards the fender a little more. Flattened it out aay from the engine a bit. I didnt love its placement before. Its decent now.
Bought a nice cup for my tig and man is it better! Digging this setup!






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