Cole Curtis

So I have a question for all you f body experts. I have a thirdgen that is putting down a calculated 330rwhp on a very safe tune with a 5.3l. Now I trapped 108 at the track over the summer with bad clutch hydraulics but had 2.5x 60 foot cause of lack of track experience and my very very hard tire compound.

Anyways obviously I need new tires and as a college student I'm pretty tight budget so I was thinking a couple options. First I'm pretty set on the Toyo Proxes TQ as a drag radial.

I'm running stock c5 rims. 18x9.5 and 17x8.5 Now I have a couple options. I have some cheap shitty 15" rims to put on the front and was thinking of taking the 17" fronts and putting them on the back to help with the drivetrain shock(Taller Sidewall)? Or if this wouldn't really help I'll just pay the extra for the 18" radials.

Ok so now my next issue is people break their 10 bolt rear ends with stock power and so far I haven't had issues but I can break loose flooring it at 50...soo I'm thinking the no traction has been saving me in that regard.

So to the main question is it worth buying tires? Or should I wait and save up for the mwc rear end and then have to wait on tires? I will be running nitrous eventually too, had to sell my last set up, I guess I'm asking is it worth the gamble?

Uneverknow

iTrader: (1)

get a rear end first! it would be pointless to get sticky tires then grenade the rear and sit and look at a broken car. plus figure out what tire your going to run and what ratio you're going to install before buying anything. Don't spend money twice I know its hard to resist the urge to buy the cheaper and easy thing to get but do it right the first time and it will cost less and be more fun. but just my .02

Cole Curtis

Yeah thats what I was thinking :/. I actually have a free 9" center section so that will determine my gears lol. Pretty sure its a 4.10 or 11 whatever came with the 9". And as for tire size I was sticking with a 26" tall tire just was trying to figure out what was cheaper.

Uneverknow

iTrader: (1)

I run 4.10 and a 26" tire works well on my set up, it's perfect in the 1/8 as I touch the limiter just after the trap.

64post

iTrader: (5)

Not an fbody but I found that drag radials don't really work well with a stick car. I tried nitto Nto5Rs on 17s and 555's and the were useless. I went to 28x10.5 M/T bias plys (3055s) on 15x10 rims and although I have yet to use them, I'm expecting huge reducuction in 60'. Point? ....Get a set of dedicated 15" rims and a set of stiff wall slicks for the track and keep your current set ups for the street. You'll need an axle upgrade to go with them. Skip the frustration of spinning off the line and embarrassing et's

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

M6 car rear end 1st!!!

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

10 bolt is good till about a 1.7 60 from my experience with a m6. Just gotta be a little nice to it.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

You have a center section already you are not far off from having a bullet proof rear end. I always suggest sell the 10-bolt while it has life as there is always and will always be a market for them used as they will never stop breaking.

$1699 will get you a Midwest Chassis Housing and Torque Arm Package.

98redorangeta

iTrader: (10)

If you can live with it being down for a while get some tires and if it brakes start putting together a MWC rear and if you can make it live you got a faster car during the process.

If you daily the car just save for the rear now and try not to wheel hop it.

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

Definitely recommend a rear first with a m6 car.

I was so nervous on my 10 bolt. I never did clutch dump or power shift or anything. I babied it.