N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

Would still like to hear why suppliers are telling customers to do plunger rod relocate that is not providing at least the bare minimum of 5.5 :1 pedal ratio for small diameter master cylinder much less being way off for the bigger master cylinder. Forget stock brakes or race brakes alot of what is being discussed here is about line pressures..

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Well......if your experience is anything like mine i would say most suppliers don't know wtf they are talking about.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Im back on the booster and loving it!!!!

Corner Worker

Remember that building race cars requires some level of talent and trial. One size fits most is the idea of parts manufacturers. Supply vs. Demand applies as well. Aerospace developed a specific manual master cylinder kit for the fox-body guys due to the high volume of calls from that crowd. They couldnt figure out a solution to use 4 piston racing brake calipers on a Mustang using a Mopar style master cylinder.

The F-body crowd "usually" is a much smarter group that can adapt and overcome the problems.

I would just slap the booster back on and run a vacuum pump, or you can always fabricate a longer brake pedal arm.

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

My update: I had a pass where the chute came out late and almost put it in the sand on a short shut down track. I have now ordered front and rear strange drag brakes. Haven't drove the car yet but I'm not playing around with not being able to stop the car anymore. full price is $2,000 for the whole setup with the pro 2pc rotors that are better for street driving. I got a black friday sale and saved hundreds. It was an expensive step but I cant risk it.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Realistically if you get your master sized right and pedal ratio right with decent pads you should almost not be able to tell the difference in power vs not.

I run a 2piece rotor with Baer eradispeeds. They are pretty decent.

The Cartel

iTrader: (1)

Damn, glad i've read this. Sounds like I will just keep my booster

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Where you at Byron ? I have slowed my car down from a 170mph in the 1/4 without a parachute ( I ran the pilot over the pass before ) and not even close to the sand trap.

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

Cordova. I wait for the chute to hit before I get on the brakes. It didn't come out so I stayed in the throttle longer than normal. I hit over 160 before the brakes and also traveled past the finish quite a bit. Thus making the shut down even shorter. Bottom line is stock calipers with this master is dangerous. Not risking putting the car in the sand again. I have nice drag brakes now. I should be fine.

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

update: I finally tried to bleed the new drag brakes and I'm not sure if there is air in the system somewhere or if now the 1.032" master is too small and I need the 1.125" The pedal goes to the floor and then if you let it up and get back on it its half way down and hard. I left the car on jack stands and didn't even try to drive it. i feel that if the pedal hits the floor that it prolly cant even stop the car unless you pump it to get the pedal higher. I see stranges website says the 1.125" master is for 4 piston calipers all the way around. I may have to change this master again.

TPIIROC

iTrader: (1)

I would say if you have to pump it you still have air.

StangEaterSS

iTrader: (41)

Strange told me you can't use the 1.032" bore for 4 piston calipers. They sold me the 1.125 and I installed it last night and pedal is perfect.