SouthernRex

Is it just impossible to hook this way? I've been trying to beat 5-second 0-60 and I just can't seem to be able to. If I build up rev with T/C off, 1-200 RPM under where the car just spins in a circle I go too slow on build up and hit an embarrassing 6 second 0-60. If I turn T/C on and rev up higher, my best was 5.08 0-60 which is what STOCK should be doing, right? I have Firehawks in stock size (I can get numbers if needed) all around the car.

Car:
1998 Trans Am WS6 A4 w/ 60,000miles
SLP AirLid
!EGR Delete
!AIR Delete
Longtube Headers
Off-road Y-Pipe
I have Borla Catback but the muffler is currently detatched.
(I MIGHT have a different rear-end gear ratio from stock. I'm going to find out if that's true before I get it tuned to correct my speedometer. People on the other part of the forum are helping me with that.)

These are brand new tires, I didn't know getting headers was enough to make it impossible for me to race from a dig (she does amazing from a roll, still.) I haven't gotten it tuned yet, but I don't see how that would fix my traction problem.

Am I just SOL until I can afford a new rear-end and transmission? If I went bigger tires next time wouldn't I ruin my puny A4? UGH. Thanks for any help, guys. <3

98CayenneT/A

Get a set of drag Radials. You are not going to blow your 4l60e or your 10 bolt. Especially with exhaust only and stock converter.

I rebuilt my 4l60e last season. This season I just finished up a H/C build with a 4000 converter and am running Hoosier drag radials and I'm not worried about my transmission or my 10 bolt. The 10 bolt does just fine behind a automatic

jhshnh

Drop the tire psi to 22 on the firehawks. Be aggressive on the throttle, but don't slam it down. Clean the tires off before launch.

If you're on a drag strip, drag radials boggeddown when my car had a stock rear and converter, but on the street they were way better than the stock tires.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Are you on the strip or the street?

Flashing the converter is the best way to launch for many guys. What I mean is, rev the engine to only 200-300 RPM over idle, when you see green, stab the throttle. In the time the engine flashes to the stall speed of the converter, it will start to move, then QUICKLY ramp into the powerband. You might have to play with either stabbing the throttle or quickly rolling into it.

Also, get the tires warm and clean them off with a burnout.

Some cheap and easy mods (if you want to mod...you may just be trying to do this in stock form) to help hook would be some LCA relocation brackets. Also, Competition engineering has some 3 way adjustable rear shocks you can get for like $100 bucks for the pair.

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

SouthernRex

Street. There's a two and a half mile road with no houses that people go to here to test their cars.

SouthernRex

Tomorrow ill try dropping psi and such and do a run. Can i fit drag radials on stock rims? (Once i wear out tread on firehawks)

jhshnh

Yes. The et streets come in a 255 width for 16" rim. It's 26.4" so it's taller than stock. I'veran them on stock snowflakes with no issues.

SouthernRex

No luck on the runs, it's been storming here virtually non stop.

SouthernRex

OK, guys. What did you think of this launch? I babyed it into WOT stab as best as I could. I didn't think I triggered the traction light and I got a pretty good result, I feel. In the video I saw the traction light, but I was too focused on driving to notice... also I didn't feel it cut loose bad at all from the launch. I'm excited about getting drag tires and a tune in the near future, though. Should give me the results I'm looking for.

T6Rocket

The first thing I noticed was a short shift 1st to 2nd, looked like only around 5200. Looked pretty good otherwise.

Al