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3200lbs is cake, under that you start to lose creature comforts. This is what my car has to get to 3100lbs. It is an auto LT1, so ~100lbs heavier which should leave an LS at right around 3k even.
Car is a 93 LT1, auto hardtop strippper...only options were power windows+AC.
- AC removed, 1LE delete pulley. Heater+box left in and still work.
- Complete EGR+EVAP deletes, all solenoids and charcoal canister
- 3" true duals w/ bullets dumped before the rear axle, much lighter than mufflers out the tail
- bare ABS headliner
- Passenger sun visor removed, kept drivers
- AIR pump delete
- Oil sandwich plate delete
- Fog light deletes
- Fiberglass hood w/o the padded shield
- Single hood shock (can only be done with lightweight hood)
- No rear hatch shocks (prop stick life)
- Rear seats and seatbelts removed
- 9.5" Stall is actually a ton lighter than stock, not sure exact difference but it was huge
- rear speakers+factory sub removed (still have two fronts for crappy tinny music on the way to the track lol)
- Full tubular suspension
- 15" Weld RTSs
- No spare tire
- No jack
That's all I can remember off the top of my head. Car was 3120 with the above, without me in it(I weigh ~175). Supposedly I should be even lighter at this point based on similar cars, so I need to get it on a scale again to double check if that is true or just internet banter. Note that I haven't drilled or cut anything up yet. Still has a radio, both factory cloth front seats, factory glass, wipers, all carpet and insulation, etc. Next round of weight reduction goal is to get to 29xx or under to compensate when I add the cage. Won't be hard but is NOT stuff to do for a street car anymore. Full Lexan is another 100#s off total, Glide drops 60lbs, Aftermarket seats that aren't insanely uncomfortable maybe 20#s off each. Insulation ~5?. Door bars and low speed bumpers are another 45lbs between em. PS delete with Manual rack+tubular k-member at least 50lbs. EWP drops 10lbs. Supposedly our harness is massive and heavy so gutting the unneeded wiring and removing unused relays and such is worth a chunk of weight as well.
They can get very light if you're willing to make some sacrifices.
Just a couple quick picks of where I’m at right now . I need to hit a scale soon once I get the dashboard back together and front suspension installs. I just spent under 900 dollars for a k member , upper and lower A arms and adjustable coil overs.
Does the kirkley flex much without rear support bar
Acme PN:AFH28, vacuum formed ABS, bare white. I sprayed it black with Krylon for Plastics(which flexes enough to not crack) to match my interior and installed without any foam or liner. Only issue I had was that the center front near the rear view mirror and rear near the light started sagging after a few days, so I used a heatgun to flex it back and some ~2" sections of plastic heavy duty velcro (not the hook and loop fabric kind, the snap together plastic) to hold those two spots. Don't have any pictures but this is what it looks like:
Initially I just pulled headliner and ran without one at first, but the damn metal roof gets HOT and I was cooking inside the car. This works perfect to block heat while only adding 1lb or so back to the car. The cardboard box was heavier than the headliner - I actually thought they shipped me an empty box. I would be surprised if it is even 2lbs. Not a ton of WR when you consider the stock headliner+lining is maybe 5-6lbs, but still better price per lb than a lot of other weight reduction(like chromo over steel suspension, which can be $200+ more expensive per part for only 2#s less weight)...and you never have to worry about sagging headliner again.
As Hio said, there's weight all over these cars. You can lose quite a bit removing heat shields, egr and all emission stuff, carpet insulation, abs, etc.
My car weighs 3240 without driver and a 8th tank of gas. That's with an S60 and full suspension. I have no money in weight loss... yet. Still have factory hood, ac, power steering, wipers, washer fluid, power driver seat, cruise control.
Only comforts I don't have is no abs, and I took out the blown speakers, and just have the face plate of my radio like how 01SS has done.
Well I finally got behind the dashboard and all the hvac is being ripped out, air bags and insulation. I’m debating if I want to hole saw a little while I’m back there.
If you already gutted HVAC ducts and airbag junk there's some wiring to pull out. Its a lot of messy work with old taped up loom for a few pounds of unnecessary wires. Removing the whole radio, speakers, and monsoon amp count for noticeable weight. Just be sure you're removing the right wires or you'll **** off the BCM.
Gutted dash doesn't weigh too much, maybe 15 lbs.? Dash pad crumbled and dash hull itself broke apart for surprise weight loss during that whole process. Looks like hell and no hiding its an empty dash now. Started looking into glass dash but the cost of freight holding me back.
1998 TA with 8.50 Cert CM cage, factory front seats, no rear seat A/C - Heat Delete, Glass hood, 12 bolt chevy Moser Rear end with braces & ARB, and AFCO Big Gun Coil Overs, Front half subframe delete with CM tubes and body brackets, manual steering, factory K and cont arms with QA1 coil overs, race star 4.5 frt, champion stripster 13" rear, stock tank, Lq4/th400 was 3100. swapping Kirkers for stock seats and fuel cell for stock tank, tube K and cont arms swap for fact stuff...3000 ish I think
From MY experience the whole removing some wire is a complete waste of f**king time.
I have done it. If i could go back in time i would leave the wiring alone and pull weight elsewhere or pull all of it at one time.
That said hole sawing is about on par. Get the cut off wheel out and make some big cuts and cut more weight.
The fiberglass dash is worth the money. I like the look alot better.
Again Just my experiences.
The hole saw don't save much weight in the end. But it sure creates alot if butt hurt and distracts people from seeing where the weight really came from.....
Way more weight in trimming flanges up than the holes.
I have been and will continue to follow your build.. you had a comment before about our cars being similar with similar goals and I agree ! I also plan on going behind my dash and deleting a lot except I’ll be keeping heat . Couple questions.. any Plans for a aftermarket steering wheel , I probably lost 7-8 lbs when I swapped mine out for a grant . Planning on abs delete in the future ? was your car a traction control/cruise car and you deleted the box ? And lastly what wheel and tire combo are you running ? Sorry for all the questions lol .
Go ahead and delete your heat unless you plan on goin back to having ac. You can get nifty little utv heaters now that make heat easy if that's all you want.
Just a couple quick picks of where I’m at right now . I need to hit a scale soon once I get the dashboard back together and front suspension installs. I just spent under 900 dollars for a k member , upper and lower A arms and adjustable coil overs.
Those seats must be supported from the center/middle up from the back its a must do with that style of seat.... and Jesus could you get it any closer to the steering wheel? What are you going to do steer it with your teeth?
02-20-2018, 04:49 PM
