When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For what it’s worth, my car was exactly 3000lbs with full tubular suspension, weld drag wheels, true duals dumper, bias ply tires, front mwc bumper support, lighter steering wheel, light battery, no ac, no power steering, no abs, no radio, no spare, no carpet padding, etc. and that’s with a 9” rear. Working towards for 2900ish now, pulled hvac box and passenger airbag, plus rear bumper support. Got a bit to go. It’s not cheap but it’s doable.
I just pulled the turbo kit and passenger seat out of mine from where it was.
2,800 before me with s400 single and air to water setup. 8 gallon cell full.
Im 230 and 3,030 race weight. Its been pretty easy to get it down this far. Took a few bucks but mostly time.
9" and powerglide.
Stereo and door speakers. oem hood with 15 pounds removed. oem decklid. stock leather door panels. stock dash. Ttops still 100% there. Stock firewall. All mild steel front tubular suspension. coilovers all around. aerospace brakes.
Mine was 2840 on the scales last time. That was a stock aluminum DS and ABS delete with a 1/4 tank. Would easily be 2650 with tubular arms and K member, cut the front end off, gutted doors and lexan...
Before I put anything on the car I weigh it. I never intended to get it into the mid 7's it just came pretty easy. Partially to doing the weight reduction right off rip.
My build thread is Kennys 1000+ street car. Its pretty long but I left all of the details in there for other people to have ideas.
Sunoco hood
frame rails trimmed
rear seats, belts, brackets removed
took a heat gun to the seam sealer and scraped off the excess sealer
removed front sway bar
gutted dash, pass airbag, heat and ac
non power front seats
lighter carpet
3" CB with no tips which I'll be taking back further
All smog equipment
Front and rear bumper supports
removed some wiring no longer needed
heat shields removed
aftermarket deck with two speakers
I never scaled the car but weighed everything I either replaced or removed which can out to 315lbs. If I ever get it back together I'd be interested in what it ends up weighing once I swap out the K-Member and lighter wheels and a few other things.
I seriously can't understand how you guys are getting those cars that light with stock stuff. We have a 96 Camaro completely gutted. Billet Specialties steering wheel, and Drag lights. Strange drag brakes, hubs, master and coil overs. Everything put back on was chrome moly. It does have a S60 th400 and iron LSNext block, moly frame connectors, and a 14 point moly cage. Vfn pin on Sunoco hood and hatch with wing. Lexan front and back. Moly bumper supports. Every bracket not used cut off. Two 10lb Nx bottles, Chute, and Wheelie bars with 12 gals of fuel in a aluminum cell in ttop well. And our car still weighs 3000lbs without the driver. We did not cut up the front end frame wise or radiator support. Only thing done to the doors is no door panels but does have crank windows that are still glass. Minimal wiring. I know we can loose some weight gutting the doors and use lexan door windows, And cut the front end up but damn those are light.
I seriously can't understand how you guys are getting those cars that light with stock stuff. We have a 96 Camaro completely gutted. Billet Specialties steering wheel, and Drag lights. Strange drag brakes, hubs, master and coil overs. Everything put back on was chrome moly. It does have a S60 th400 and iron LSNext block, moly frame connectors, and a 14 point moly cage. Vfn pin on Sunoco hood and hatch with wing. Lexan front and back. Moly bumper supports. Every bracket not used cut off. Two 10lb Nx bottles, Chute, and Wheelie bars with 12 gals of fuel in a aluminum cell in ttop well. And our car still weighs 3000lbs without the driver. We did not cut up the front end frame wise or radiator support. Only thing done to the doors is no door panels but does have crank windows that are still glass. Minimal wiring. I know we can loose some weight gutting the doors and use lexan door windows, And cut the front end up but damn those are light.
I'm with you on that. I've done everything I can but I have real glass in the car and stock body panels. Almost 3,200 with out driver. I'm at the point of should I tube the front end? What's it gonna save me? I already have no bumper support. It's aluminum brackets holding the bumper. Pisses me off how light these guys got
I'm with you on that. I've done everything I can but I have real glass in the car and stock body panels. Almost 3,200 with out driver. I'm at the point of should I tube the front end? What's it gonna save me? I already have no bumper support. It's aluminum brackets holding the bumper. Pisses me off how light these guys got
If you check through my thread I have everything Ive cut in it. I went a little crazy on the rear and did big aluminum tubs and aluminum sheeting on the floor but also replaced it with quite a few moly bars to brace it.
The front end I cut off was 50 pounds and I replaced it with 13 pounds of moly.
I have cut out only the door crash bars which was less than 20 pounds from both doors.
I seriously can't understand how you guys are getting those cars that light with stock stuff. We have a 96 Camaro completely gutted. Billet Specialties steering wheel, and Drag lights. Strange drag brakes, hubs, master and coil overs. Everything put back on was chrome moly. It does have a S60 th400 and iron LSNext block, moly frame connectors, and a 14 point moly cage. Vfn pin on Sunoco hood and hatch with wing. Lexan front and back. Moly bumper supports. Every bracket not used cut off. Two 10lb Nx bottles, Chute, and Wheelie bars with 12 gals of fuel in a aluminum cell in ttop well. And our car still weighs 3000lbs without the driver. We did not cut up the front end frame wise or radiator support. Only thing done to the doors is no door panels but does have crank windows that are still glass. Minimal wiring. I know we can loose some weight gutting the doors and use lexan door windows, And cut the front end up but damn those are light.
Have you ever weighed that rear end?
Im not trying to toot my own horn. Really just like to help people out. But I have one of the lightest ttop street driven f bodies Ive ever seen, Thumb through there and check out any kind of ideas. I still have the leather door panels, power drivers window, factory side glass, factory dash thats gutted, factory firewal, strut towers, all of the floor pan in the cockpit area. I really gutted the trunk space to accomodate the cell and save weight out back.
aluminum lsnext block, large air to water intercooler, ice box.
My car should be heavier but somehow its 2,780-2,800 without me.
The rear axle, iron block, and th400 are really the only things I see that you have that I dont. That in itself could be the couple hundred extra pounds.
But I also have 190 pounds of turbo stuff.
I seriously can't understand how you guys are getting those cars that light with stock stuff. We have a 96 Camaro completely gutted. Billet Specialties steering wheel, and Drag lights. Strange drag brakes, hubs, master and coil overs. Everything put back on was chrome moly. It does have a S60 th400 and iron LSNext block, moly frame connectors, and a 14 point moly cage. Vfn pin on Sunoco hood and hatch with wing. Lexan front and back. Moly bumper supports. Every bracket not used cut off. Two 10lb Nx bottles, Chute, and Wheelie bars with 12 gals of fuel in a aluminum cell in ttop well. And our car still weighs 3000lbs without the driver. We did not cut up the front end frame wise or radiator support. Only thing done to the doors is no door panels but does have crank windows that are still glass. Minimal wiring. I know we can loose some weight gutting the doors and use lexan door windows, And cut the front end up but damn those are light.
I'm with ya there....i seriously can't understand how some can a basically stripped car that heavy
When i did my 10 point cage earlier this year i took out my subframe connectors. 30lbs loss to help offset the weight of the cage. I'm also fairly creative in keeping the "stockish" appearance. From a glance or distance the car looks really normal, or did before the cage and kirkeys.
I did a little different trick to stiffen the chassis. Instead of adding heavy *** frame connectors i seam welded the under side of the car. Very effective way of stiffening a chassis with out adding weight.
Last edited by HioSSilver; 12-06-2018 at 10:05 PM.
I did a little different trick to stiffen the chassis. Instead of adding heavy *** frame connectors i seam welded the under side of the car. Very effective way of stiffening a chassis with out adding weight.
Have you ever weighed that rear end?
(Yes, My friend has a Strange nine inch with a aluminum pro center section with 40 spline axles. Our S60 has 40 spine axles as well, both have strange drag brakes. Our S60 only weighs 10 pounds more.)
The rear axle, iron block, and th400 are really the only things I see that you have that I dont. That in itself could be the couple hundred extra pounds.
(Our TH400 is completely Reid cased with all billet internals with billet aluminum pump, and billet 9" converter, it probably weighs less than anyones trans on this thread, so that definitely is not it. And I believe the iron block is only 90lbs heavier than the aluminum. So I still don't understand how you guys are getting that light with stock parts.) Keep in mind everything on our car is Chrome Moly.
Our cage with all the Tig rod only weighed 150lbs. That plus the motor difference is only 240lbs. So all this really makes no sense to me at all. Not doubting anyone. I guess I'm just pissed too, that I can't get ours that light. Damn it. LOL But I also have 190 pounds of turbo stuff.
We definitely are very happy how the car works. Would have liked to get it down to 2800Lbs race weight. Would never cut off anything we put on. I guess we will get rid of the inner door bars and cut the front end up like you got yours to try to loose a little more.
Have you had any issues after removing the SFC's? I have a 10 point as well and wouldn't mind losing mine
I didnt think the subframes did much anyway as mine were not welded along the door pinch seam. I've been fooling with metal a long time, and anyone who has knows, you can have the strongest piece of metal you want, but how it connects to the car or other weakest link is gonna allow it to bent/twist as a whole assembly. Standard not through floor subframe connectors are poorly designed due to space and ease of installation constraints. I do think they help some, but once you install a stiff 10 point, it becomes the structure of the car and the subframes are dead weight. I didn't think twice about removing them.
11-24-2018, 09:49 PM
