bjamick

iTrader: (31)

So I’ve got a simple street/track setup. It’s got an 8.8 with hiltsy Mount and a short mwc torque arm. The car is twisting and pulling front left but it’s not 60’ what I’d like it to. I’ve also got the double adjustable Vikings on the rear. Non-adj lca with rubber bushings.

Did a 1.45 60’. I’m wanting to dip in the 1.35-1.39 area. If I spray anymore the car will just twist more and waste more energy.

So just looking for some opinions on this matter.

jhshnh

sxc Z28

Anti-roll bar

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

It’s not in the pics but I’ve got the mwc weld in subframe connectors. Ive still literally have the stock suspension from 1999 on the front. I’ve got a bmr kmember though about to go in. I just know I’ve got .5 in the .60.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

We first have to discuss the differences between a modified swaybar some offer and a true anti roll bar like we offer. Our ARB is designed to have zero side to side movement and it solid mounted through out. If the bar can move side to side it is not going to hold true to its settings and the same can be said if it is mounted in poly mounts.

Our entire ARB set up is the lightest on the market and can be directly bolted in using our bolt on chassis brackets. If you have questions please feel free to hit us up.

allblackedout5

iTrader: (18)

You guys have any in stock currently? stock length s60 rear with the sway bar brackets welded on, ordered from you guys.

codyvette

iTrader: (24)

Hellwig makes one that is kind of a hybrid. Works great on my six speed car.

z28a4

iTrader: (1)

I have the bolt on mwc arb. Love it. Have not been to the track with it since i put it on. But here are my driving impressions. With the stock bar and no front bar, you can feel the car roll pretty good on turns. Not anymore though, the arb actually keeps the car more level and stable. It is loud, but thats to be expected. Its also very light and i believe the least expensive arb you can get.

Rob

TTur1996

The Midwest Chassis ARB is a very light weight piece and very nice piece. One huge thing to help with your launch as well as down track handing is a roll cage. If your car has enough power to be twisting your car up you should consider one that goes all the way into the engine compartment, and to the rear. I would loose the rubber bushed control arms too. If you don't want hiems then go with durlyn bushings but it looks like you already have hiems on your panhard bar so you might want to do the control arms that way as well. Start with a ARB. You won't believe how much better your car will perform with a cage too.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

I don’t want a cage for street reasons. I don’t want to climb over it. I’ll go with arb then to see how that does. May sell these control arms I’ve got as well.

joeZ96

iTrader: (3)

A good drag sway bar if you drive the car should be all you need. And I don't think you're going to gain anything swapping out those control arms at that level. Who makes aftermarket control arms with rubber bushings?

zzracer

iTrader: (33)

Get a good anti roll bar. My car was really bad twisting like yours. I picked up a tenth in my 60 just form the ARB.

Rick01SS

Measure both sides of your wheelbase and make sure your rearend is square to the front wheels. If one side is off, you should switch to adjustable LCA's.

Rod ends on the LCA's don't rattle much, but you can bet the dragbar/ARB will.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

A good anti-roll bar is what you need. If the car sees regular street time, a lever arm style race anti-roll will not be comfortable. They bind and eventually will break the bar or other components around it. Our bar has been proven on the street and track for 15+ years now. 60' times in the low 1.1 range and thousands upon thousands of street miles

https://bmrsuspension.com/index.cfm?...299&superpro=0

joeZ96

iTrader: (3)

To me and I think as Midwest Chassis alluded to above, the BMR and UMI drag bars are still technically swaybars. Mount to the factory location, using rubber or poly bushings, stock style bar with end links.

MWC, TRZ, Burkhart, Wolfe, etc. are ARBs. Solid mounted, lever style.

I've been running the UMI drag bar for years. 1.29. Quiet as a mouse. BMR a few years back lightened theirs up quite a bit so I would go that route now.

zzracer

iTrader: (33)

I am running the Bmr arb. I drive it a lot.

bnastystuntz

iTrader: (1)

a little bit of an old thread but i run a wolfe racecraft anti roll bar and my car launches straight as an arrow...No twisting. and that was on some old *** worn out stock shocks. i just installed qa1 double adjustables. i wouldnt recomdnd this bar for street use due to how low it sits. This is a weld on kit as well unlike the mwc where it simply bolts ul to the rear. Id go with the mwc arb if i was you tho considering u drive it on the street

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

jhshnh

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

One thing I noticed is the poly lower control arms in the picture. Those are not helping you in anyway shape or form when it comes to drag racing. They are most likely binding like all rubber and poly connections do and when you are launching they are not holding your wheel base true which will make the car want to steer left or right.

As for a lever style true anti rollbar, they will not break over time when driving them on the street. If that is the case every offroad vehicle wouldn't make it past the first marker racing the baja 500 as the lever style is used heavily in off road, dirt track stock car racing, road racing, and many other types of racing.

At the end of the day if your suspension points are not solid mounted you are leaving something on the table. There is a reason every type of high end Motorsports uses solid mounting points and not poly or rubber. So in the end you have to decide if spending your money on going fast is to put comfort first or performance. If you want to maintain comfort then use rubber/poly and you will leave a little on the ET table or go with a good quality heim joint suspension that is rigid and know you are not wasting your time trying to get everything out of your vehicle.