Last minute suspension adjustments. 5.0 car trying to get into the 4's
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Last minute suspension adjustments. 5.0 car trying to get into the 4's
I just finished scaling the car the best I can get. Lowered it some to lower CG.
What are some of the tips you 4 second guys can give me?
Rear shocks are menscer. Front are AP valved Vikings now. Limiters with 2" of travel. 54% front weight exactly.
What kind of rear lower control arm angle are you guys aiming for? What type of tq arm angle?
Anything tips I may need to know would be great! I welded up a couple brackets to be able to hang 35 pounds off from the front end. Gives me .4% more nose weight.
Car has been 5.0s about 20 passes and I cannot break it without a wheelie. Seems to do decent one day and stay down and uncontrollable wheelies the next. I had the no prep AK valving from viking and switched to the tie down AP. Im hoping that helps me out some!
I
What are some of the tips you 4 second guys can give me?
Rear shocks are menscer. Front are AP valved Vikings now. Limiters with 2" of travel. 54% front weight exactly.
What kind of rear lower control arm angle are you guys aiming for? What type of tq arm angle?
Anything tips I may need to know would be great! I welded up a couple brackets to be able to hang 35 pounds off from the front end. Gives me .4% more nose weight.
Car has been 5.0s about 20 passes and I cannot break it without a wheelie. Seems to do decent one day and stay down and uncontrollable wheelies the next. I had the no prep AK valving from viking and switched to the tie down AP. Im hoping that helps me out some!
I
#4
10 Second Club
iTrader: (41)
Is this car on radials or slicks? I'm not quite at the level your at yet but I do know when the car has wheelies issues and you cant tie the front down enough, hanging weight off the front does fix this. With as much HP as your car makes mph'n like that it should 60ft in the 1.1x range if its on radials. Radials like the tire hit hard so a steeper control arm angle will do that. I am curious what people will say about recommended control arm angle and TQ arm angle and IC numbers.
#5
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Thread Starter
Is this car on radials or slicks? I'm not quite at the level your at yet but I do know when the car has wheelies issues and you cant tie the front down enough, hanging weight off the front does fix this. With as much HP as your car makes mph'n like that it should 60ft in the 1.1x range if its on radials. Radials like the tire hit hard so a steeper control arm angle will do that. I am curious what people will say about recommended control arm angle and TQ arm angle and IC numbers.
I am on the 275 radial pro. Sorry I didnt specify.
The car used to ride quite high as it was like 90% street and 10% track but being I am stuck at the 5.0 range like that I went through the entire car.
Lowered it 1.75" out back and 2.25" up front to lower CG.
I used to run probably 4 degrees of angle from body towards axle on the lower control arms. No idea overall what the tq arm was. Likely just real high towards car. As in which people told me if I flatten it out it would push the car forward opposed to up.
I have a feeling it will do pretty damn good where it is. But I know there are some secret fbody specs, techniques, and settings that really work out there. The fast guys need to be more giving!
But yes, Ive had the car strapped tighter than **** with chain limiters. Didnt help. So I made a weight bracket that I can hang up to 35 pounds over the front and finally scalled the car the best I could.
I leave super easy on 3,000 rpm and 4 psi of boost. Only run 20 pounds max for the first 4 second with a very gradual slope. Then 26.5 psi in second gear.
Its almost to the point that it is embarrasing because the car is so fast. I see identical mph cars running 7.4
So saturday I am testing! If nothing comes in by then I will post my exact changes and what helped to hopefully help someone else.
#7
I am on the 275 radial pro. Sorry I didnt specify.
The car used to ride quite high as it was like 90% street and 10% track but being I am stuck at the 5.0 range like that I went through the entire car.
Lowered it 1.75" out back and 2.25" up front to lower CG.
I used to run probably 4 degrees of angle from body towards axle on the lower control arms. No idea overall what the tq arm was. Likely just real high towards car. As in which people told me if I flatten it out it would push the car forward opposed to up.
I have a feeling it will do pretty damn good where it is. But I know there are some secret fbody specs, techniques, and settings that really work out there. The fast guys need to be more giving!
But yes, Ive had the car strapped tighter than **** with chain limiters. Didnt help. So I made a weight bracket that I can hang up to 35 pounds over the front and finally scalled the car the best I could.
I leave super easy on 3,000 rpm and 4 psi of boost. Only run 20 pounds max for the first 4 second with a very gradual slope. Then 26.5 psi in second gear.
Its almost to the point that it is embarrasing because the car is so fast. I see identical mph cars running 7.4
So saturday I am testing! If nothing comes in by then I will post my exact changes and what helped to hopefully help someone else.
The car used to ride quite high as it was like 90% street and 10% track but being I am stuck at the 5.0 range like that I went through the entire car.
Lowered it 1.75" out back and 2.25" up front to lower CG.
I used to run probably 4 degrees of angle from body towards axle on the lower control arms. No idea overall what the tq arm was. Likely just real high towards car. As in which people told me if I flatten it out it would push the car forward opposed to up.
I have a feeling it will do pretty damn good where it is. But I know there are some secret fbody specs, techniques, and settings that really work out there. The fast guys need to be more giving!
But yes, Ive had the car strapped tighter than **** with chain limiters. Didnt help. So I made a weight bracket that I can hang up to 35 pounds over the front and finally scalled the car the best I could.
I leave super easy on 3,000 rpm and 4 psi of boost. Only run 20 pounds max for the first 4 second with a very gradual slope. Then 26.5 psi in second gear.
Its almost to the point that it is embarrasing because the car is so fast. I see identical mph cars running 7.4
So saturday I am testing! If nothing comes in by then I will post my exact changes and what helped to hopefully help someone else.
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#8
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#9
#10
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I had the Ak valving for a mix of no prep and tie down before. I went to the Ap Valving that is "tie down" only. They are quite a bit tighter.
#13
11 Second Club
Just want to say awesome car man. It also seems you're on the right path to getting your 4.
As I myself don't have a 4 sec car. Several of my friends do down here. Although not f-bodys & not turbo cars. They are always battling wheelies. Wheelie bars always going on & off. One thing is they have weight blocks they strap or mount as far forward as they can to help keep the front down. Hope you get some info from the f-body guys for shock & suspension. Good luck man!
As I myself don't have a 4 sec car. Several of my friends do down here. Although not f-bodys & not turbo cars. They are always battling wheelies. Wheelie bars always going on & off. One thing is they have weight blocks they strap or mount as far forward as they can to help keep the front down. Hope you get some info from the f-body guys for shock & suspension. Good luck man!
#14
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Thread Starter
If these AP valves do not work they are going. They feel leaps and bounds tighter than the ak "no prep" set. Im actually having a hard time getting nose weight. I had the car aligned today and lost .7% front weight. Pissed me right off lol
#15
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Just want to say awesome car man. It also seems you're on the right path to getting your 4.
As I myself don't have a 4 sec car. Several of my friends do down here. Although not f-bodys & not turbo cars. They are always battling wheelies. Wheelie bars always going on & off. One thing is they have weight blocks they strap or mount as far forward as they can to help keep the front down. Hope you get some info from the f-body guys for shock & suspension. Good luck man!
As I myself don't have a 4 sec car. Several of my friends do down here. Although not f-bodys & not turbo cars. They are always battling wheelies. Wheelie bars always going on & off. One thing is they have weight blocks they strap or mount as far forward as they can to help keep the front down. Hope you get some info from the f-body guys for shock & suspension. Good luck man!
#17
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
-1.5% solid bushings everywhere
i havent measured the IC yet.
1.80 glide
3.42 rear before. 3.25 right now
#18
8 Second Club
iTrader: (82)
I am a big tire/ladder bar car so no great advice from me but I would send a PM to Scottywheels. His 275 radial 4th gen car has gone 4.40's in the 1/8 already. Met him more than once racing at the Valley and seems like a nice guy who doesn't mind talking about his combo.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#19
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I am a big tire/ladder bar car so no great advice from me but I would send a PM to Scottywheels. His 275 radial 4th gen car has gone 4.40's in the 1/8 already. Met him more than once racing at the Valley and seems like a nice guy who doesn't mind talking about his combo.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Ive made some drastic changes to the car. Now it is spinning lol
Cured the wheelie issue.