TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

There has to be an easier way. Is there a quick simple and secure way to anchor the car down without damaging anything like the brake lines. Pics would be appreciated. I know this is a common sense issue and I have trailered it several times safely, but it was a very time consuming task due to anchor points and the vehicle being so low. What's your system like? TIA.

James

<small>[ December 20, 2002, 09:56 AM: Message edited by: Pro Stock John ]</small>

DERTY

Use 4 axle straps. Loop them through the lower control arms on the front. No brake lines in the way there. Loop them around the rear axle to the inside of the sway bar. You can slide it under the brake lines so that it's just on the axle tube. Then you can hook your straps to the ends and crank it down.

That works pretty good for mine. There are some other ways of doing this too.

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

DO NOT put a tie down on a suspension part, such as the control arms. Use 2 axle straps in rear, and 2 hook straps on the 2 front holes in the K member. Tighten the 2 straps in the back, which will tighten the 2 front ones. THEN put the car in park and set the parking brake. 5 minutes total.

Tim

Tom the roofer

iTrader: (9)

I also use 4 axle straps. With my old stock 10 bolt I could slide the straps under the brake lines. (same with my ford 9")In the front, I slide the axle straps thru the PA racing A-arms and criss cross the straps. With my old stock a-arms I used a hook strap in the hole like Tim said and also criss crossed.
Yes yes yes parking brake and tranny in park.

Tom

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

Good deal guys. I'll round up some hook straps and ditch the chain/boom equipment. I sure appreciate the info. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Take care.

James

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I cross the rear straps around the rear axle not the rear swaybar.

I hook the fronts into the factory slots in the subframe that the GM transports use. Ideally I'd like to cross the fronts too I'll have to see if the straps are long enuff.

Check after a few miles...

bigSS

Didn't you guys ever notice the slots on the rear LCA mounting point, and the one's up front (where the subframes attach)? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> There are special "keys" you can get that will fit in those slots which have a place to attach your straps. This is what I have. No wrapping around the axle or K-Member for me. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> I highly recommend them. I'll see if I can find a pic or a link to them...

DERTY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Tim98TA:
[QBGo ahead and use those slots and watch how long that sheetmetal last. Thise 'slots' are used on the assembly line to pull the car along. There is no stress on them then. Wrecker drivers ALWAYS use those and they ALWAYS rip the metal.

Tim[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah, no kidding. I am in no way going to trust a 1" contact patch with keeping my car on the trailer for 1800 miles. Looping through the front K-member or lower control arms is far better and less stressful on the material. There is no major issues with strapping the lower control arm entirely (loop it all the way around). You'll still have full suspension travel this way as well, so nothing is restricted. In the rear, definitely try and get the strap around just the axle tubes and not around the sway bar like PSJ said.

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by bigSS:
<strong>Didn't you guys ever notice the slots on the rear LCA mounting point, and the one's up front (where the subframes attach)? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> There are special "keys" you can get that will fit in those slots which have a place to attach your straps. This is what I have. No wrapping around the axle or K-Member for me. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> I highly recommend them. I'll see if I can find a pic or a link to them...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Go ahead and use those slots and watch how long that sheetmetal last. Thise 'slots' are used on the assembly line to pull the car along. There is no stress on them then. Wrecker drivers ALWAYS use those and they ALWAYS rip the metal.

Tim

It'llrun

Those slots are there for tow strap tie downs. That's been the practice for years. If they're used for moving the car down the assembly line, so be it. Those hooks tow truck drivers use were designed for the slots and are required by law in most states for towing on a flatbed. There are vehicles without them though. I can only think of those labeled "BMW" at the moment. To legally flatbed one of those, there are other special tie downs made specifically for BMW's. That's what I was told when I was looking to buy a tow truck earlier this year anyway. I'd rather chance those slots though, than to give reason for a fresh alignment just because I towed improperly.

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by It'llrun:
<strong>Those slots are there for tow strap tie downs. That's been the practice for years. If they're used for moving the car down the assembly line, so be it. Those hooks tow truck drivers use were designed for the slots and are required by law in most states for towing on a flatbed. There are vehicles without them though. I can only think of those labeled "BMW" at the moment. To legally flatbed one of those, there are other special tie downs made specifically for BMW's. That's what I was told when I was looking to buy a tow truck earlier this year anyway. I'd rather chance those slots though, than to give reason for a fresh alignment just because I towed improperly.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tell you what. After you tow a car using those slots, get under there and look at the slots. They will be ripped back. Do that 4-5 times and you have no metal left. Not to mention the fact that while on the flatbed, as the metal rips, the car gets looser and looser, causing it to rock back and forth, cuseing the slots to keep ripping.

Tim

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by It'llrun:
<strong>If tied down properly, there should be no concern of a nylon strap outpowering double-walled steel. Not only that, it's still the law to use those slots, according to those I asked when discussing towing for hire.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Since when is the body of the car double walled steel? I have seen SEVERAL f-bodies that have been towed and the steel ripped. Z06Cam can tell you about his TA that was towed to my house on a flatbed and I had to beat the steel back into place. Worked on another TA just the other day. Same deal.
Those slots are for the assebly line only!!!!

PSJ, no, don't hook to ANY suspension part. You want the car to 'float' while in transit.

Tim

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

I run a strap around the rear axle, and a strap around the tubular front crossmember.

bigSS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Tim98TA:
<strong>Tell you what. After you tow a car using those slots, get under there and look at the slots. They will be ripped back. Do that 4-5 times and you have no metal left. Not to mention the fact that while on the flatbed, as the metal rips, the car gets looser and looser, causing it to rock back and forth, cuseing the slots to keep ripping.

Tim</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tim, I have towed my Camaro and C5 probably 2 dozen times this year (as well as some stangs several times) and I haven't noticed anything yet.

DERTY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
[QB]
I think in front, I am not comfortable using the front a-arms, could that pull the front end out of alignment after a long tow?
QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mine's still straight as an arrow. The alignment is actually controlled out on the steering rod ends. Unless you bend the a-arm or k-member your not going to tweak the stearing alignment.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I think we all agree that the rear straps should go around the rearend, taking care not to compress the brake lines.

I think in front, I am not comfortable using the front a-arms, could that pull the front end out of alignment after a long tow?

I have used the front slots, but I will check mine for ripping.

I did just tow my car for 40 hrs so that's the worst tow the car will see.

It'llrun

If tied down properly, there should be no concern of a nylon strap outpowering double-walled steel. I towed a car to several events in 2001, for a total of well over 6,000 miles and had no issues. And I definitely checked when strapping it down. Once the car is tightly in place, it shouldn't move enough to cause any damage, unless you crash the tow vehicle. Not only that, it's still the law to use those slots, according to those I asked when discussing towing for hire.

I do know people who use the axle housing. They usually do that because it's just easier. I don't know anyone who uses any suspension part to hold a car down. Those (in case you hadn't heard) are not designed as hold downs for transfer. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Sears

I would put both your windows down and run a ratcheting strap through the windows and under the trailer. This will fully compress your suspension so it will not move.

I heard the Colonel uses twist ties. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Justin

<small>[ December 21, 2002, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: Jsears8 ]</small>

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

ROTFLMAO! I have been witing for that. I figured the term "Duct tape" would be used before we hit the third reply. It does look like a questionable topic, but again common sense is the key and the HD hooked tie down rachet straps seem to be the common denominator. Thanks for the all the help guys. Take care.

James

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

I know this is super old but this is an issue that makes trailering my car a pain, getting those axles straps on without pulling some wires loose or bending brake lines sucks in the 100 degree heat. So I been looking into other tie down points and came up with these:



I picked up a pair of towing rings with 4 misc size different hooks on them and the "L" hook I used in these pics seems to be perfect, this is so much easier than getting those straps around the axle...IMHO