verbs

Right now as she stands, in in 2500-3500 density altitudes it runs 11.6-11.7@117mph...

First off, I'm getting big and littles to reduce rotating mass, and will be switching from ET streets to ET drags on the 15" rears. I figure these alone should net .2/2mph towards my times.

Next, is 4.30 gears. Not sure if this will be added to the current 12 bolt or if it will be a part of a new Billingsly racing lightweight 12 bolt. Going to 4.30's from 3.73's will make me cross the traps at 6400-6600rpms instead of the 5100rpm range. From seeing others who made this switch, I should gain another .2/2mph.

Get rid of the aluminum flywheel. I still get a mixed reaction to this one. It hurts the launch but helps the top end. Will I actually gain ET by removing this? Well, I can't cut better than a hi 1.6x 60ft on ET streets launching at 7000 rpms with 3.73's. Not sure if the stock flywheel will help.


OK, so I figure the gears and wheels will shave .4 off for sure, putting me in the low 11 second range.

I don't have LCA relocation brackets, a thicker rear swaybar, airbag, subframes (getting added next week) or aftermarket shocks.

I also have a heavy *** car. I have a 50lb stereo but won't remove it. I will reduce weight but only to the extent that it doesn't make the car look stripped in any way.

I've already reduced weight via- lightweight carpet, !sound deadening, !monsoon speakers, !spare tire/jack, true dual exhaust, headers, aluminum flywheel, carbon fiber d/s, ! front sway bar.

I'm looking to spend as little $$$$ as possible in my effort to get into the 10's. My 60ft times suck ***, and I'm not sure if the stock flywheel, skinnies, and gears will fix that.

Anyone have any suggestions?

<small>[ January 30, 2003, 08:26 PM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>

T/A Medic

iTrader: (1)

nitrous... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

i went 10.735 with 150 shot, stock heads, Perf Cam... LTS, 4000 stall, and 373s

went 11.745 motor

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Verbs, I really think you are being a little optimistic with the gears and tires. Switching to drags and 4.30's will probably give a solid .1-.2. At your raceweight and altitude there the only cheap way you will run is like above, nitrous. For all motor you'd need A LOT less weight and a better track; drive to Texas, you're closer than I am.

Mike Hoffpauir

So what is the raceweight of your car?
What aftermarket rims and tires are you going with?
I think you should pic the lightest possible setup (read bogart or monocoat (sp))


You will need a beefier driveshaft too. You should probably look at rageman's thread about driveshafts that is in this (dragracing) section.

I do think you should ditch the light flywheel also. The heavier one has the advantage in drag racing, whereas the lighter one has the advantage road racing and dyno racing.

This stuff isnt goign to get you in the tens but it is a step in the right direction.

1madss

iTrader: (10)

It's going to take at least 123-125 mph and a low low 1.5 or 1.4 60' to get a M6 car into the 10's. There are a few ways to gain the MPH you need. It sounds like you are on the right track with the mods you mentioned. But it's probably going to take a combination of thinngs. The weight reduction will help with your MPH as well as the 60'. Your probably going to need to get your raceweight down into the 3300 pound range.

What size tire are you looking at? The mph range I had mentioned earlier is going to be pushing a 26" tire pretty close to 6600-6800 rpm through the traps

Good Luck <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ January 31, 2003, 09:23 AM: Message edited by: 1madss ]</small>

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1madss:
<strong> It's going to take at least 123-125 mph and a low low 1.5 or 1.4 60' to get a M6 car into the 10's.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm hoping for a 1.5x down the road and figure the gears, wheels and steel flywheel will get me there

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1madss:
<strong> What size tire are you looking at? The mph range I had mentioned earlier is going to be pushing a 26" tire pretty close to 6600-6800 rpm through the traps

Good Luck <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have 7000rpms to work with. Remember, a 26" ET street is really 26.2", and will expand to about 27" before I cross the traps.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong> So what is the raceweight of your car?. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">3650 or so <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />


</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong> What aftermarket rims and tires are you going with?
I think you should pic the lightest possible setup (read bogart or monocoat (sp))</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Buying a buddy's used wheels. They probably aren't as light as Bogarts, but for only $400 for front and rear wheels/tires its hard to pass up.


</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong> You will need a beefier driveshaft too. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You don't think my carbon fiber one will last?
.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong> I do think you should ditch the light flywheel also. The heavier one has the advantage in drag racing,</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats what I think too, but some still insist what I lose off the line from the alum. wheel I gain back on the top end

CHRISPY

I think you need to drop about 300 pounds raceweight with the other mods you mentioned to have a chance. Steel flywheel will definitely help.
Good luck,
Chris

CHRISPY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by verbs:
<strong> [QUOTE] I think too, but some still insist what I lose off the line from the alum. wheel I gain back on the top end </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">1/4 Mile is ALL in the sixty. The gain up top will NOT make up the gain in the sixty from the steel flyhweel.

Mike Hoffpauir

verbs, with the power levels your car is producing I expect you to spin the yoke free of that CF driveshaft if you get a good hook at a good launch rpm level.


With what the m6's that are in the 10's now run for raceweight I'd say you need to lose an honest 200 pounds. K-member is a nice place to start but thats only 32 odd pounds. A-arms 10 pounds.
I wouldnt hesitate to ditch that 50 pounds of stereo stuff, but thats just me.

And again I would ditch the aluminum flywheel because you will need all the help you can get. The plain fact is the heavier flywheel will have more centrifical force which is better for your drag racing application--off the line and between shifts.

It will take numerous things to get your car in the tens, and cutting corners is not one of those ways. You should take every little mod seriously. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ January 31, 2003, 02:27 PM: Message edited by: Mike Hoffpauir ]</small>

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by white2001s10:
<strong>
I don't know what cam & intake you are running, but to make power up high like that I think some intake mods are in order
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">LS6 intake, 230/224 cam...see sig for the rest.

No Holley out here...its too hot in AZ for a metal intake IMO. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

WicketMike

iTrader: (13)

i think you said you didnt have skinnies.
you will be amazed how much they help you out.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

The cam sounds fine, but I'm convinced the intake will hold you back at the higher RPM.
Where does your engine peak on the dyno?
and what is your shift points & shift recovery RPM?

FYI, the LS6 has the same long runners, and same neck down to 72mm behind the TB.
Shorter runners really start to shine at the RPM you're talking about. An intake change would probably shift your peak power up in the RPMs and be a big help IMO.
The hot intake is a big concern at lower RPM street driving, but not between 6 & 7K on the track.. IMO.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Verbs, IMO if you switch to the 4.30:1 gears then that will probably make up for the lighter flywheel off the line, so not much use swapping that too.
I don't know what cam & intake you are running, but to make power up high like that I think some intake mods are in order. If your still running a stock type intake, then the long runner length and the 72mm neck-down behind the throttlebody will be hurting your 6500+RPM power IMO. The Holley aluminum intake may be of use to you in this case.
For weight removal, the tubular K-member & A-arm/coilover kit works well and doesn't strip the car.
just some ideas there. Good luck.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Fenris Ulf

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chris ARE 360:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by verbs:
<strong> [QUOTE] I think too, but some still insist what I lose off the line from the alum. wheel I gain back on the top end </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">1/4 Mile is ALL in the sixty. The gain up top will NOT make up the gain in the sixty from the steel flyhweel. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have to agree with Chris on this one, but you will still be a far cry from 10s with the atmospheric conditions you race in.

2000SILVERTA

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong>
It will take numerous things to get your car in the tens, and cutting corners is not one of those ways. You should take every little mod seriously. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well said.

Good luck Verbs. I am aiming for a 10.xx real soon myself, although in an A4.

CHRISPY

Actually I will rephrase my statement. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
1/4 is all about the first 330' with 60' being really important as well <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Steel flywheel, chromeoly DS will not only help your sixty they will help on the shifts too.

With your DA I think you have a realistic shot at high 11.1's low 11.2s with the changes I mentioned. You need to reduce weight and run in better air <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Cheers,
Chris

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by white2001s10:
<strong> The cam sounds fine, but I'm convinced the intake will hold you back at the higher RPM.
Where does your engine peak on the dyno?
and what is your shift points & shift recovery RPM?

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">peak@6400, shift@6800-7000, drops down to 5100rpms or so depending on the gear.

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Verbs again, there are really no corners to cut to get your car into the 10's with just heads/cam at your DA, face it. I suggest you either invest in a 150 shot or plan to make some major changes and go and race already.

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

No doubt, you could just add nitrous, and be in the 10's, with that change alone.

But with your weight, expect to start breaking things. You need to do some serious weight reduction!! Especially off the front of the car. that will get your 60' down. This will be easier on parts too.

Bumper supports, skinnies, battery, carpet, seats, AIR pump, air conditioning, headers, hood, K-member, A arms, shocks.

Then add some ET Drags.