1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

Last time out I was bracket racing on a .500 Pro Tree and cutting very consistant -.010 red lights. This is in a "no-E" class. I'd be cutting damn near perfect lights all day on a .400 tree. I need to slow my R/T's down about .020 - .030 seconds to be safe. If I consciously wait for the yellows to come on fully I'm all over the place from -.00x red to .050's. A .050 light isn't competitive. I'm launching on a t-brake and tried changing front tire pressures, rear tire pressures, and shock settings to no avail. Not sure I want to lower my launch RPM because that'll slow the car down too. An adjustable t-brake button might help but I don't think I can cut that much time off with the button's I've seen out there.

Anyone have better ideas? Tips?

onfire

iTrader: (17)

Have you tried different front tire diameters? Changes rollout

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

That's what I was thinking.

Maggie

Are you poping up out of the beams? If you are more roll out may not help. You may need to take out some hook.
Something else you can try is bump in a little deeper and leave as soon as you see green. Do you have a practice tree? You need to know what RT you can repeat and set up your car and stage according to your RT. and practice, practice, practice.

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

Haven't tried changing tires. The car is actually setup up as a super pro bracket car with a delay box. But to run this one particular class 2-3 times a year, I have to run it w/o the box. According to the video it doesn't appear I'm coming up out of the beams. I had the best luck staging as shallow as possible and waiting for full yellow, but like I said it's too inconsistent. I'm very consistent leaving at the first hint of yellow on a pro tree, but the cars just too quick.

Going deep and leaving green might work better though too, good idea Maggie.

I may have to make some drastic chassis changes to see if I can slow the cars reaction w/o hurting my ET. That would be the ideal situation.

Maggie

Yea, you may have to re-think your chassis set up.
I hear what you are saying about running a different class than what the car was set up for. If you have ballast in the car?...you might move it forward.
Sometimes taking "quick" out of a car can be difficult without giving up some ET.

kp

iTrader: (34)

'long stroke' adjustable trans brake button good to .050 and another one good to .030 :

http://www.biondoracing.com/TransBrake.shtml#5-O

Maggie

I've used the Biondo long stroke and it worked ok but IMO I thought it was awkward and didn't like it at all.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Me neither but I got used to it after a while. Easiest solution if thats the only problem though

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

I've seen that one but it does look awkward. I think I'm going to order the smaller one from Biondo that's supposed to be good for .03 seconds. That will still mount to my steering wheel and I can swap it out easier. It should *atleast* keep me out of the red. Its frustrating when the car runs within .01 every pass but the damn driver can't cut a consistant light. LOL. And I used to think the super pro class would be EASY because of the delay box.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

A few of my friends have that same style of button with an adjustable throw. It's the easiest way to adjust for a pro-tree if you're not running a delay box, and I'm planning to get one as well for my new set-up next year. Definately takes some getting used to....

Derek

z28racerlt1

Couple of ways I have slowed the reation time down is.

1. Stage as shallow as possible. That gives you the most movement in the beams before you break them.
2. Take out air pressure in the front tires. I have went do to about 15lb before.
3. LEave as a lower rpm on the trans brake. Usually if I am trigger happy I will go down 200 rpms. Obviously if you need more keep going down or up.
4. I did see some people talking about the adjustable trans brake buttons. I don't run one yet but do think they are a great idea. Better check with the class rules to make sure that they acceptable.

Just some things that help me.

Ken

z-ya

iTrader: (1)

More whiskey

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

We actually discussed that option.....

SLowETz

iTrader: (12)

What z28racerlt1 said. Stage shallow and don't change a thing as far as the light/how you leave is concerned. You want to stay as consistent as possible, and since you're right on the ragged edge of near perfection, you'd do better(IMHO)to just change to a shallow stage.

This will do two things.... give you more time before the tire breaks the beam(allowing you to BE a tad trigger happy and not go red), and drop your ET a hair b/c of the "head start" on the light.

That's what I do as I'm also a bit on the early side, and "usually" go .030-.040 lights. Works nearly everytime.