what else to get to cut 60 ft time
#41
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
I have good tires and good converter and relo brackets and lca's and having trouble hooking. Maybe cause I'm making more power now..
Again I'll ask, should I do v6 springs or hal's or torque arm next?
Again I'll ask, should I do v6 springs or hal's or torque arm next?
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Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Im sure your chassis guy that you respect knows that instant center is also important in getting a car to bite. Thats all relocation brackets do. They dont change pinion angle at all.
Ladder bar cars are similar to torque arm cars.
my car consists of a stock unmodified torque arm, my relocation brackets, Wolfe double adjustable chromoly LCA's and a Wolfe Drag bar. I have a yank T400 X-member for the trans. I have a stock panhard rod, with eibach lowering kit all around and the original hal shocks and springs. Front springs are also pro kit.
Ladder bar cars are similar to torque arm cars.
my car consists of a stock unmodified torque arm, my relocation brackets, Wolfe double adjustable chromoly LCA's and a Wolfe Drag bar. I have a yank T400 X-member for the trans. I have a stock panhard rod, with eibach lowering kit all around and the original hal shocks and springs. Front springs are also pro kit.
#45
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This is a pretty interesting thread.
NOT a chassis expert, but I have been playing with my '94's suspension and going to the track regularly with it since begining of '96.
Don't know about the relo brackets. Had a guy who knows what he's doing install them for me, but they didn't seem to help my 60' much if at all.
I would say that for weight transfer, the biggest difference was installing QA-1's up front and V6 springs out back. After that, my car would lift the tires a few inches on measley 1.70 short times. Doing those gave me weight transfer like a *****.
I am finishing up my big conversion on my '94 that chiefly revolves around the installation of a 385 LT4 motor. I'm about to install a Wolfe Racecraft rear sway bar and then hit the track. Should see some serious wheelies now.
NOT a chassis expert, but I have been playing with my '94's suspension and going to the track regularly with it since begining of '96.
Don't know about the relo brackets. Had a guy who knows what he's doing install them for me, but they didn't seem to help my 60' much if at all.
I would say that for weight transfer, the biggest difference was installing QA-1's up front and V6 springs out back. After that, my car would lift the tires a few inches on measley 1.70 short times. Doing those gave me weight transfer like a *****.
I am finishing up my big conversion on my '94 that chiefly revolves around the installation of a 385 LT4 motor. I'm about to install a Wolfe Racecraft rear sway bar and then hit the track. Should see some serious wheelies now.
#46
Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Are your bump stops over the rearend still in the car? If you do take them out. Thats also a free mod and will give the rear end full movement instead of it coming down and hitting the bump stops and bouncing it back up.
#48
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Got Me Som, you're having the same problem I deal with. Trying to race a high HP car with drag radials. I had a 3400 stall (actually its still in the garage) which wouldn't give drag radials any chance. The tighter stall works better for me. Now if I ever feel like really going for broke with E.T., I would put E.T, streets on and the 3400 back in. Hell your into boost and leaving with that 3800 stall. Thats a lot of power to try and hold with drag radials. The M/T's do bite pretty good. I can't wait till they come out with 315's for my 11" wheels.
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yea my TCI 3800 has a 2.7 str, I think at my power level unless I get all the suspension and run a 275/50/15 m/t radial I ain't gonna hook. I asked my friend if I should run a 28" tall M/t and he said I would bog. I personally don't think it would but do think I would crack my rear end cause it would bite too good.
Think I will go with maybe a 3500 stall with like a 2.2 str from Fuddle. I didn't realize you're running only a 2600 stall.
Think I will go with maybe a 3500 stall with like a 2.2 str from Fuddle. I didn't realize you're running only a 2600 stall.
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Originally Posted by Flame Throwing SS
You do not want the rear of the body coming down on the rear axle, that unloads the differential and causes tire spin. The axle actually is coming up off the ground and it looks like the body is dropping onto the axle. What you want is the axle to hammer down to the ground, this causes the tires to bit harder on the track, which reduces the 60' time. If the body is hitting the bump stops, then the suspension is not working properly.
My relocation brackets do exactly what you are saying..ive got video of it from a few years back...
watch the end of this video.
http://www.motr.biz/beenfetched_2.wmv
#51
Yup, we are on the same page. Nice shot.
The body on ours stays at the same level as before the launch, just our axle hits the ground hard, then as the tires spool up (wrinkle the tire wall) they lift the axle from the ground ... causing the axle to rotate upon the axle shaft centerline, lifting the front end.
The body on ours stays at the same level as before the launch, just our axle hits the ground hard, then as the tires spool up (wrinkle the tire wall) they lift the axle from the ground ... causing the axle to rotate upon the axle shaft centerline, lifting the front end.
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Originally Posted by V6 Bird
A stock torque is fine for his car...Ive been running a stock one for years now and have been many 1.3 60's on it. Relocation brackets are the key.
When you want a good set on the car Eric hit me up...The ones you have on there now are junk but better then none at all.
Mike
When you want a good set on the car Eric hit me up...The ones you have on there now are junk but better then none at all.
Mike
Hey hutto you still selling those piece of **** brackets?