Joker

Hey Folks,

I'm about to change the rearend out of my car to a 9" from Driveline Solutions with 4:11 gears and a Detroit Truetrac. I also plan to use the following;

BMR Extreme rear sway bar, no front sway bar
Adjustable LCA's (currently have non adjustable LCA's)
BMR adjustable panhard bar
BMR Extreme torque arm with mount relocation to chassis instead of trans
DMS (s) lowering springs all the way around
BMR relocation brackets
Hal two way adjustable shocks
Air bag in right rear spring
Custom built 6 point roll cage (NHRA/IHRA legal)

I currently make 432 rwhp (TSP342/248 cam in a crate ZO6 motor at the rear wheels but will seeing well over 500 rwhp at the rear wheels soon when heads/FAST intake/90 MM TB are added), Ram clutch, run MT drag radials on 17" rims but plan to eventually acquire Bogart 16" rims with a 26/28 inch drag slicks. My goals are to hit low 11's, high tens in a street car that is driven a couple of times a week weather permitting and race Div 4 and other meets.

Your thoughts, opinions, or experience in any of this are appreciated!!!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'd skip the lowering springs... not a hot drag setup.. and is only gonna give you more ground clearance problems. The rear sway bar..that's really stiff, #1, you probably won't need the airbag if you go with a solid strait bar style sway bar like that ( spohn and wolfe also make that style too ) and that swaybar is gonna be harsh on the street. You may want to consider the 1 inch solid chromoly rear bar, and the airbag. The swaybar is stiff enough to preload the chassis for weight jacking too.. it's not as stiff as the BMR extreme or the like, but is hands down the stiffest swaybar available that mounts in the factory location.

Joker

Makes alot of sense, thank for the input!

Do the adjustable LSA's and Panhard bar makes sense to be able to tune the setup? That's my thought, that I would be able to find exactly what is the effective geometry points in this setup. I also want to install a tubular chromoly K member and poly motor mounts, chromoly tubular upper and lower A arms for weight reduction and strength.

Thanks

Cursed1

iTrader: (13)

The adjustable stuff will be the only way to center you rear end. I would for sure do the adjustable stuff. You will either spend the money now or later. As far as the front suspension, I think you are making a wise move spending the extra couple of bucks on the chromoly stuff vs. the mild steel.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Go for the chromoly stuff, the added cost does hurt up front some, but in the long run, it will only make life easier. I plan on doing the A3 tranny mod myself over the winter after I get my heads on hopefully next month, then after that it's lightweight everything in the front of the car, from the k member to the radiator overflow... but I probably have a differnet goal, bumper supports in, a/c in, radio in, 10 second car, all motor.

stevemilz

iTrader: (3)

www. wolferacecraft.com

This is my third suspension, I had Spohn, BMR, and now Wolfe. Like JL said it might cost more but its worth it. The only thing I will say that is kinda shitty is that you have to paint or powder coat your self.

Joker

I plan to keep my ac, power accessories, etc.. I want to strengthen and lighten at the same time, so thats were the chromoly stuff comes in. It won't won't be my daily driver after this, but it will be drive on the street morw than the track. The idea is that when taken to the track, it performs as well as possible and no chance of breaking.

I sincerely believe in build once, build it right.

Thanks

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I 2nd that... however, sometimes plans change, things don't always work out the way you originally thought.. etc. etc. I personally went with SLP weld in frame connectors. Sure, tehy are stiff as hell, and do an excellent job of stiffening up the car, but unfortunately, they are heavy.. wish I had thougth of that before. Nothing I can't work with, just a afterthought. Same with my spohn torque arm, sure, it's a awesome piece, that I will never break, but the unfortuante part is that I had to shim it down to clear my QTP y pipe, and now I do bottom it out every now and then. Not sure what I regret there, the Y pipe, or the torque arm. I know that the arm will be helpful in the A3 mod as I already have a chassis mounted arm on the car, so that's good... and I can always get the spacers out.. rip off the Y pipe... just a matter of what to put in it's place.

Eventually, I'll get pinched for noise, the LM, along with the QTP lontubes and catted Y are loud as hell.. when that eventually happens, I'll address it somehow. Probably put the stock at back back on the car and get a 4 inch cutout to add in right at the back of the Y.. and neck it down to the 3 inch pipe the factory cat back had.. quiet when it has to be. Unfortunately, CT does visual at emmissions for cats, or at least what looks like them every 2 years.. so whatever I do, will require the cats to stay on, or at least have the pipe with cats in it to put into the car when emmissions time comes along.