What does it mean to flash the converter?
What does it mean to flash the converter? What is the correct way to flash a converter.Iam running a 3000 stall,spraying a 125 shot(which kicks in at 3000rpm),complete suspension mods(torque arm,control arms,etc.) and Iam using et streets.
I am trying to learn some new techniques to better my times at the track.I currently do my burnout in 1,then launch in OD.I usaully hold the brake and rev it to about 2200 rpm,then just floor it
Is it better to launch in D or OD?
Is there a different way I should be doing my burnouts?
Thanks for your help
My last time in the 1/4 was 11.97.
I am trying to learn some new techniques to better my times at the track.I currently do my burnout in 1,then launch in OD.I usaully hold the brake and rev it to about 2200 rpm,then just floor it
Is it better to launch in D or OD?
Is there a different way I should be doing my burnouts?
Thanks for your help
My last time in the 1/4 was 11.97.
To flash it, instead of brake stalling it you just floor it from idle. The converter will flash to it's stall rpm and hit much harder. If you can get traction doing it this way, it will probly net you a better time. It's just hard to get it to hook if you have a lot of power and then you flash it to say 4000rpms, it hits the tires too hard in a lot of cases.
What tires do you have? Are you spraying right out of the hole? If not with a 3000 stall, flashing it might work well for you if you have good tires.
What tires do you have? Are you spraying right out of the hole? If not with a 3000 stall, flashing it might work well for you if you have good tires.
Iam spraying out of the hole and running ET streets.The spray is set to hit at wot and 3000 rpm.
I have already blown two rear ends.I have a built stock 10 bolt.Auburn posi,Motive 3.73 gears,competition studs and a T/A performance girdle.The last time I launched it broke 3/4 of the ring and pinion and shattered the input sprauge.They did refund my money for the ring and pinion.Said it was a manufacturer defect.That was a very expensive pass.
So basicaly I just hold the brake and when the light goes floor it?That is flashing the converter.Got it.I will try this and see if it helps any.I do get serious hook when I launch.No spin at all,close to pulling the front end........but not close enough.I have removed the front sway bar to help.Thinking about getting some q/a adjustable shocks and a set of Welds to maybe get her off the ground
I have already blown two rear ends.I have a built stock 10 bolt.Auburn posi,Motive 3.73 gears,competition studs and a T/A performance girdle.The last time I launched it broke 3/4 of the ring and pinion and shattered the input sprauge.They did refund my money for the ring and pinion.Said it was a manufacturer defect.That was a very expensive pass.
So basicaly I just hold the brake and when the light goes floor it?That is flashing the converter.Got it.I will try this and see if it helps any.I do get serious hook when I launch.No spin at all,close to pulling the front end........but not close enough.I have removed the front sway bar to help.Thinking about getting some q/a adjustable shocks and a set of Welds to maybe get her off the ground
getting the wheels off the ground doesn't mean you're gonna go faster.
don't know what kind of budget you have but i'm on the stock rear untouched. I powerbrake and tighten up the drivetrain so the initial hit isn't so hard on the rear. of course it does have its threshold limit.
you might just want to get a 12 bolt in the end, you'll save over constantly rebuilding 10 bolts, not too mention the pain in the *** factor.
don't know what kind of budget you have but i'm on the stock rear untouched. I powerbrake and tighten up the drivetrain so the initial hit isn't so hard on the rear. of course it does have its threshold limit.
you might just want to get a 12 bolt in the end, you'll save over constantly rebuilding 10 bolts, not too mention the pain in the *** factor.
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If you drag race buy a 9". More than likely its not the power your car is making but the shock load you are placing on the rear. Consider running a 2 stage nitrous system and having the 2nd stage come in after the initial hit from the launch. Run a 50-75 shot then the rest on a delay. As far as leaving better, wheels up, down left, right or sideways, tune your car for the best 60ft, leaving at different rpm, shock settings, air pressure. Keep a log of all of the settings and record all of your passes and only change one setting at a time. Either way the 10 bolt rear is a POS, junk it and buy a 9" and be done with it.
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if you dragrace you don't need a heavy power robbing 9''. i have close to a 9sec m6 stock weight car(will be 9's this spring 
) and i run a moser 12bolt w/up grades(never had one problen in 4-years). a built stock 10 bolt,waist of money and it's still junk for racing,get a 12 bolt and pound the **** out of it.
) and i run a moser 12bolt w/up grades(never had one problen in 4-years). a built stock 10 bolt,waist of money and it's still junk for racing,get a 12 bolt and pound the **** out of it. Well I ran it at the track this weekend and tryed flashing the converter.I had more sucess holding the brake and launching form about 1800 rpms'.
I ended up making a 7.40 pass at 92 mph with a 60 ft time of 1.51.Not bad I guess.This was on et streets and 100 shot.Stock motor.Bolt ons only
I ended up making a 7.40 pass at 92 mph with a 60 ft time of 1.51.Not bad I guess.This was on et streets and 100 shot.Stock motor.Bolt ons only
Originally Posted by rufretic
What happened when you flashed it? Lose traction or bog? I would think spraying off the line would take care of any bog.
Originally Posted by Unstang
What kind of times (60' & 1/4 mile) are you guys running that break 10 bolts? I ran 11.30s on ET Streets with my '98 & never had any problems.
I broke mine twice now.The last time I ran an 11.9,1.7 60' and wasted it.I keep repairing it cause I cant afford a new one due to buying another Camaro.I am launching on a 125 shot,running 8 psi on my ET streets.
Originally Posted by Unstang
What kind of times (60' & 1/4 mile) are you guys running that break 10 bolts? I ran 11.30s on ET Streets with my '98 & never had any problems.
I've made 14 NA runs @ 11.5-11.6 off the transbrake, and 5 runs @ 10.6-10.7 off the transbrake and havent broke the replacement 10bolt....YET. Will it break, yes, when? Thats a good question, one I hope I dont answer any time before the 9" gets here. Some tire spinning off the line will kill your 60' and ET, but save the 10bolt.
tleonzo-try playing with the footbrake rpm, bring it up a little higher, loading the rearend (which reduces shock to the gears and helps save the "built" 10bolt as well). 10psi in ET Streets? Wow, and I thought I was crazy for transbrake launches!
Originally Posted by CAT3
tleonzo-try playing with the footbrake rpm, bring it up a little higher, loading the rearend (which reduces shock to the gears and helps save the "built" 10bolt as well). 10psi in ET Streets? Wow, and I thought I was crazy for transbrake launches!
What is a transbrake launch?
