modracr62

iTrader: (12)

How did you all route your main wire running from the battery to the starter when doing a relocation to the rear of the car. I have looked and see no good way to run it.

otherwhitemeat

iTrader: (3)

i ran it thrugh the spear tire opening at the bottom, then ran it over the rear axle and down the pinch weld. i drilled little holes on the pinch weld and mounted thoso little plastic hoops to hold the cable to.

modracr62

iTrader: (12)

I have it ran up to the firewall but from there to the starter i dont see a good way to run it.

otherwhitemeat

iTrader: (3)

oh...........my battery is in the trunk.......i thought yours was there too

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Trunk mount? I ran th main cable to a power distribution block and used the existing cable for the starter and fuse block. YOu can get them for about 20.00 at a good car stereo shop. The one I have accepts a 1/0 feed and then has 3 distribution terminals.

NASTY98TA

iTrader: (34)

They way i did mine on the shop car was I ran the wire inside the car, under the
carpet for a cleaner look, Mounted a Heavy duty Blade Fuse in the spare tire well, went throught the factory grommet on the passengers side of the car (Behind PCM). Then i used a high temp shielding sleeve over the wire coming out of the grommet and ran the wire down the passenger side front subframe to the starter. Again make sure to put some heat resistant shielding on the power wire once you are in the engine bay because you will be very close to the Headers. Then i used another piece of power wire and went from the starter across the K-member to the altenator. From the altenator go right up to the fusebox.

Run ground from battery, route it the same way, but to the engine block. then i jumped a ground from there over to the subframe. it is important to run
ground all the way up front from battery(appearantly this is important for the pcm)


This looks real clean not to mention you are eliminating the cables going across the fans.

Hope that helps

Just make sure you have a good 150-175 amp fuse in the rear of the car by the battery. All i used was a good quality 4 gauge wire from a audio shop and 5 loop connector, along with a Blade style fuse and fuse holder from a audio shop.

modracr62

iTrader: (12)

Thanks guys..Heading to get a dist. box now....

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I've never heard of anyone running the ground to the front of the car... most people just tie it into the rollbar, rear of teh body somewhere.

Ground is Ground.. it shouldn't really matter where you run it, as long as it's got a good connection everywhere you should be fine.

promod1955

iTrader: (44)

Thats how its been done for a long time. Using the method of running a ground cable up front is called a clean ground. I'm using this method in the cars I build. Heres a few resons why. On the tube chassis cars the chassis constantly seeing some type of flex. This flex changes the resistance in the carbon of the chassis which is your path to ground on a non clean ground system. On slower, basic ignition type cars it might not show a difference, But on the tube chassis cars we build now with msd digitial 7's and BS3, the ground is very important on these sensative electronics. The biggest benefit to this is consistancy. Grounds are most often the problem on electrical systems, and youll be running around in circles trying to figure out your racing program if this starts happening to you. Hope this helps.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Intresting... I do understand the way the chassis resistance can change I"m an electronics guy... but I never figured the stuff was that sensative.


Are you running a full size wire for the gnd too? I would think that hooking up gnd in the back of the car, and running a small wire would be enough to get the situation under control

promod1955

iTrader: (44)

I wouldn't have believed It either until we started doing it that way and got results. We run full size on both. At the firewall we run a bulkhead connector and tie the electronics and other etc. on one side. On the other side it goes to the block. Theres nothing going to the actual chassis itself.

Yea your addidng more weight to the car, but its being added on the right side anyway.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Ground is definitely not ground on these vehicles when it comes to running aftermarket electronics. Just ask the line out the door of Innovate LC-1 owners seeking RMA's for digital to analog converter chips that have been fried due to voltage spikes backfed thru chassis ground. The chassis ground has all kinds of big rude, crude devices on it: Fans, starter...etc. Grounding the battery to the engine block it'self would be the wisest if you are running sensitive electronics. As for the extra weight penalty, take a dump.