What size wheel studs??
#1
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What size wheel studs??
Hey guys, just wondering what size wheel studs to go with to be legal at the track with my drag wheels? Not sure on the length and thickness.
Any recommendations, i'm not looking for fancy smancy studs either just something that will do the job.
Thanks,
Marco
Any recommendations, i'm not looking for fancy smancy studs either just something that will do the job.
Thanks,
Marco
#2
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Standard race stuff is 1/2" 3" long, but 5/8" stud is the way to go for durability.
Depends on the rims you run, like a pro star/drag lite will need a longer 3" stud, while a alumastar can use a 2 1/2"
You have to run open end lugs and the treads must stick out past the lug.
Depends on the rims you run, like a pro star/drag lite will need a longer 3" stud, while a alumastar can use a 2 1/2"
You have to run open end lugs and the treads must stick out past the lug.
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#8
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to me id rather go overkill than not enough
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
i like these becuase they have the 11/16 shank and u dont have to used shanked lugs on them
#9
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I am getting 5/8" studs on mine. Besides the extra weight there is no other reason not to run them.
Make sure you measure the axle flange thickness, rotor and rim thickness so you get the right length, those ones from summit might be a bit long and I personally like the medium size washers, I think they are a little less than 1/2" thick.
Make sure you measure the axle flange thickness, rotor and rim thickness so you get the right length, those ones from summit might be a bit long and I personally like the medium size washers, I think they are a little less than 1/2" thick.
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If you drill and tap the axle hole it will, on my stock rear I just knocked out the stock studs and used 1/2" screw in, you just tap the existing hole and they go right in.
you'll also have to drill the rotor holes bigger.
you'll also have to drill the rotor holes bigger.
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I am waiting on my buddy to bring me a welder, I would have had my car done in 2 or 3 days but I mostly walk around it and keep cutting off stuff and moving things around to get an extra 1/4" of clearance lol.
Plus a few beer breaks every 15 minutes or so.
But I have 16 3/4" of clearance from my fender lip to my 1 1/4" c-moly lower control arm, and 17" from the tub to fender lip.
Also figured out how I am going to make my LCA and shock mount use the same bracket =) top secret stuff shhhh!
I am going to borrow a digital camera and take a **** load of photos of what I have done so far. Plus I have a few other ideas of how to make the wolfe , bmr, madman and UMI style torque arms have 2x as many adjustments on the front
Plus a few beer breaks every 15 minutes or so.
But I have 16 3/4" of clearance from my fender lip to my 1 1/4" c-moly lower control arm, and 17" from the tub to fender lip.
Also figured out how I am going to make my LCA and shock mount use the same bracket =) top secret stuff shhhh!
I am going to borrow a digital camera and take a **** load of photos of what I have done so far. Plus I have a few other ideas of how to make the wolfe , bmr, madman and UMI style torque arms have 2x as many adjustments on the front
#14
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If you have Prostars that use the long lug nut, get the ARP-100-7713 (3.25"), but if you have Convo Pros or other wheels that have the short lug nut, go with the ARP-100-7708 (2.5"). I have the 3.25" with my Convo Pros, and they stick out WAY too far. I am throwing the 2.5" in tomorrow.
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I have 1/2 " on my car and after launching it at the track they are starting to bend. I can barely get my street wheels on them anymore. So on my other car i had the 5/8 ones installed and i dont think i will ever break these. If this is a track only car go with the 5/8 ones. If you still want to run street wheels go with the 1/2 ' ones but keep a check on them.
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I would go with 5/8" I doubt it would hurt any rim run on our cars to drill them out to fit 5/8 studs even if they didn't come to fit them, we're talking about 1/8" in diameter. which isn't much of an enlargement.