"What do I need for.." Safety Requirements for NHRA (Rollbar, Rollcage, harness, etc)
 

** RULES ARE 2009 CURRENT, 2010 COMING A.S.A.P. **

Since this has been asked plenty of times, I've constructed this thread to try and answer the questions on safety equipment needed on stuff like helmets, roll bar / roll cage, driveshaft loops, 5-point harnesses, etc. Keep in mind these are NHRA rules overall, and your track may enforce stricter rules than these (unfortunately some tracks enforce much less, but BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY in my opinion), so check before you head to the track. If you plan to race frequently, get an NHRA rulebook (www.nhra.com) and read up on everything so you'll be well versed before hitting the track. Also check out the NHRA website for a list of tracks near you and your local division director and tech director if you have further questions the rulebook can't answer.

If you have constructive information to add, please post up with rulebook page and/or SFI spec's so I can add it on (late at night writing this and I know I'll forget things)!

Also, first timers and drag racing novices may want to read this sticky: www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699837


Some general rules:

-All cars must have a catch can for radiator overflow of at least 1 pint. These must be securely fastened (bolted or clamped). Factory overflow in most late-models is fine.

-Neutral safety switch (again, if using a factory shifter, this should be already installed. Aftermarket shifters will require wiring this in).

-If battery is in the back/trunk (regardless of ET), a secured tray and cutoff switch is required. The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off (including alternator); see here for pictures and a wiring diagram: www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/733951-battery-disconnect-switch.html

-If using Nitrous oxide, the bottle must be securely mounted (no plastic brackets), bottle must be stamped with 1800-lb DOT rating and identified as nitrous oxide. If bottle is located in driver's compartment, it must be equipped with a relief valve and vented outside the compartment. Commercially available thermostatically controlled bottle-type warmers are permitted, all other heating of bottles prohibited (i.e. blow torches).

-Any vehicle using a spool center section requires aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators).

-NHRA national and divisional races require clear glass around the vehicle, subject to check. Local races vary, check with your division or track.

-Tires/Wheels/Studs and lugs/spacers:

Tires may be checked for condition, pressure, defects, etc. by a tech inspector before allowing runs. All street tires must have a minimum of 1/16 inch tread depth. Temporary spares, space saver spares or trailer tires prohibited.

Thread engagement on the lug must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud or bolt. Length of the stud/bolt doesn't determine permissability (example: a 7/16 inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16 inch.

Spacers are allowed and can be either hub centric or lug centric. Spacer can not reduce the minimum permitted thread engagement below the standards listed above. No stacking of wheel spacers allowed.


13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.

-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.

11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.

-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.

-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)

-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)

-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)

9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:

-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.

-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division).

-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required. For NHRA license form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/licenseapp.pdf, for NHRA physical form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/physical01.pdf

-Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)

-Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off; see here for pictures and a wiring diagram: www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/733951-battery-disconnect-switch.html

-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.

-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.

Parachutes:

-Required at 150 mph no et restriction

Roll bar Diagram:

http://www.nhra.org/images/rollbar.gif


Roll Cage Diagram (good to 8.50 1/4-mile elapsed times):
http://www.nhra.org/images/rollcage.gif

Villian have you seen any info on the 25.3 spec that's coming out?

NHRA rule book didn't have anything I saw. If I find any info I'll post it.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Thanks for the recent update. Someone just asked a question and this came in handy.

Okay, the NHRA division 2 tech inspector who just certified my car said he believes the new spec will cover 7.49-7.00 at 3400-3600 lbs. He wasn't 100% sure on it, but thinks the full specs will be ready by mid summer.

But after seeing David Hance go 6.93 and then 223 mph, makes me wonder who will have to die before they reel in drag radial. These things are becoming deadly projectiles IMHO.

Derek

how fast will a 8 point be acceptable? 9.99? unacceptable at 9.49?

An 8 point roll cage that is certified by a NHRA tech will be good from 9.99 to 8.50.
An 8 point roll bar will fall under the roll bar rules posted in post #1 and #2.

Derek

Cage Question
 

I've got a 2000 Camaro that I'm thinking about putting a cage in soon. I was told by a local racer that because it's a T-top car that I would have to put a net over the T-top glass along with the window net for the drivers door. Does anyone have any input on this? I'd really like to make it so the car certs to 8.50 just so I have some room for improvement (car runs 9.70's now...getting thrown out of the track). I called my local chassis builder and he had no idea about what a T-top car would need. I also looked it up in the NHRA rule book and found nothing on the subject. Thanks in advance for the help.

Hal

A full cage certified to 8.50 does require a window net on the drive door side (or the use of arm restraints, your choice), but you do not need a net between the top hoop and the t-top glass. T-tops count as a coupe under NHRA rules when the tops are in place. Take them out, and now you must follow convertible rules.

Thanks for the help...I knew about the window net but nobody I talked with knew about the T tops....

fixed the links to the rollbar and rollcage diagrams

This is a great wealth of knowledge.

Like said, it is better to be safe, then sorry. A racer has a responsibility not only to himself, but his fellow racer next to him.

Brian,

Thanks for the help!

Derek

Does the dash have to come out for a 6 pt roll bar?i am hoping for some high 10's next season on my new set up

No, but you will want to pull the carpet, center console, interior panels (just the sides, not the dash) and seats before welding.
Put it all back in when you are done.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6923jpg.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6920jpg.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6926jpg.jpg
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...mg_6928jpg.jpg

Cool.Thanks alot

As mentioned, the 6-point bar wouldn't have anything that would require a dash removal. But if you think the car will be running in the 9s or over 135 mph in the near future, you might want to consider a full cage all at once instead of a two-step deal.

Derek

Best advise anyone can give, and being that I have gone the 6 pt to 10 pt and now looking at the 25.5 point... build to what the MAX you ever think you will go.

I could have done the 25.5 back when I did the 6 pt, but didn't.. wish I had from the start.