TS6

iTrader: (41)

Are slicks more forgiving if you break traction? I was told that if you lose traction with a slick it only spins for a second and will re-hook, whereas with a DR once it spins you have to lift to regain traction. Now that I make enough power to have traction problems, which tire is better? I don't care about tire life or DOT laws, just want the best hooking tire bar none. Before DR's worked real well I ran ET drags on the street all the time, I don't mind doing it again.

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I know anytime I have ever run dr`s when they start to spin there is no stopping them but with the et dargs I have yet to lose any traction so I dont know.
I am sure your power level is higher than mine so it might be different for you.However I run the little 26 inchers and still get 1.47 on a untunned suspention

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

once you hop or spin a drag radial, its not going to recover like a slick. on my car i could spin and hop to a 1.45 60' but on the radials, if they spin, **** - i would be glad to pull a 1.5x.

bdas70

If it spins or loses traction with either type of tire the race is over when I here recover I thinking of not hitting the wall , we went from a slick to a drag radial a couple years ago and after learning how the car was reponding to the m/t drag radials I woudn't have anything else but I also know there are so many different setups and track conditions to deal with, but we seen that the drag radils are much more stable top end and not to mention how well they hook at 17- 18 psi and as far as recovery after having to lift I haven't seen any issues but I feel that during a need to recover the car or etc I fell the drag radials are better. less side wall flex I'll try to attach a clip after a lauch with a broken roll control.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

top fuel when they spin they spin...
and if you can hook a radial youll go faster than a slick

kp

iTrader: (34)

I wish I could run faster on radials, I have switched them right at the track a half dozen times and never picked any significant ET or MPH.

For general use I'll take the ET drags + tubes, I only run the radials if I have to.

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

Just put a set of 28x10.5s on my wheels, what a wieght diff. The rim with the slick on it is MUCH lighter than the MT DR I had on there.

Edit: Slicks with no tubes

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Slicks are so much more forgiving than a dot et street or a drag radial. if i spin on some 28x10.5 et drags then i know there's something really wrong with track prep.

kp

iTrader: (34)

325/50 DRs on prostars are 15lbs per side heavier than new 10.5x28s ET drags with M/T tubes on Bogarts. The wheels weigh the same.

But i'll accept the radial tire advantage with less rolling resistance to make up for the weight difference.

It really depends how your car is set up, at 13-14psi cols in stiff sidewall slicks with tubes my car doesnt sway at all, i can drive it 150mph with two fingers on the wheel. But a higher up car with 10psi and no tubes, stock rear swaybar and VW radials in the front is going to be a handful.

I can set my car up to run very well with the radials, but I do a lot of bracket/index racing and a consistent hook is way more important than saying I run a *cough* street tire. I have nothing against the radials, they work fine, but anyone who is seriously making some passes is going to go through at least 2-3 sets of tires a season so why not try them both and draw your own conclusions. If one pair of tires lasts you a season or two I doubt either one will be a big advantage or disadvantage if thats what you set your car up for..

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

+1 on radials burning up faster than a set of stiff sidewall et drags!

Caveman

iTrader: (2)

I have run my red Formula with 325/50 MT radials for many runs, on a well prepped track they work great(1.31 60') but if the track prep is not good they would spin right at the hit of the gas(1.80 60') and not recover unless you get completely out of the throttle and back into it. I recently switched to MT 28/10.5 W tires and they hook much more consistantly even on a poorly prepped track(OSW), if they spin they only rotate for 10 -15 feet and grab, the worst 60' on the 10.5 W's has been 1.49 but it normally goes 1.32 - 1.36. So if you always run at NHRA events either tire will work great, if you sometimes race at unprepped tracks use a full slick!

I run 13psi in the 28/10.5 W's and the car drives straight as an arrow.