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Torque curves, Tires & Traction . . . Looking for advice
03-23-2008, 12:14 PM
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Torque curves, Tires & Traction . . . Looking for advice Alright, details:
2001 Z M6 w/bolt-ons, Hooker LTs, true duals, CAI & SLP lid, Lakewood Boxed LCAs & Spohn LCA brackets (welded), BMR single-adjustable PHR, Random Tech adjustable Torque Arm set to -2.5', stock springs front and rear w/stock shocks front & rear.
I've run this setup at the track (except the LCA brackets) on ET Drags w/51 pound weight each rear wheel (bad for starting momentum) and netted a 1.96 with a 2500 rpm dump. I need to practice my feathering on the clutch admittedly, but with the high rpm, my pedal floats (need LS7 or something).
I'm running 3360ish weight at the track w/me in the car and 1/4 tank.
Now I've got good tires (M/T ET Streets - 28x11.5x15) on 15x9 Convo Pros so I should be around 30 pounds per wheel. What else is reasonable I should do to improve traction AND at what point here should I be shifting?
Thank you.
2001 Z M6 w/bolt-ons, Hooker LTs, true duals, CAI & SLP lid, Lakewood Boxed LCAs & Spohn LCA brackets (welded), BMR single-adjustable PHR, Random Tech adjustable Torque Arm set to -2.5', stock springs front and rear w/stock shocks front & rear.
I've run this setup at the track (except the LCA brackets) on ET Drags w/51 pound weight each rear wheel (bad for starting momentum) and netted a 1.96 with a 2500 rpm dump. I need to practice my feathering on the clutch admittedly, but with the high rpm, my pedal floats (need LS7 or something).
I'm running 3360ish weight at the track w/me in the car and 1/4 tank.
Now I've got good tires (M/T ET Streets - 28x11.5x15) on 15x9 Convo Pros so I should be around 30 pounds per wheel. What else is reasonable I should do to improve traction AND at what point here should I be shifting?
Thank you.
12-15-2008, 01:04 PM
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This thread is def like 9 months old and don't listen to this guy when it comes to a stock cammed car.
Everyone's setup responds different so just play with the shift points. But on a stock cammed car it won't do anything but make you go slower to shift that high IF you can even get it to go that high without floating the valves.
Everyone's setup responds different so just play with the shift points. But on a stock cammed car it won't do anything but make you go slower to shift that high IF you can even get it to go that high without floating the valves.
12-15-2008, 01:20 PM
#6
This thread is def like 9 months old and don't listen to this guy when it comes to a stock cammed car.
Everyone's setup responds different so just play with the shift points. But on a stock cammed car it won't do anything but make you go slower to shift that high IF you can even get it to go that high without floating the valves.
Everyone's setup responds different so just play with the shift points. But on a stock cammed car it won't do anything but make you go slower to shift that high IF you can even get it to go that high without floating the valves.
12-24-2008, 07:56 PM
#7
This thread is def like 9 months old and don't listen to this guy when it comes to a stock cammed car.
Everyone's setup responds different so just play with the shift points. But on a stock cammed car it won't do anything but make you go slower to shift that high IF you can even get it to go that high without floating the valves.
Everyone's setup responds different so just play with the shift points. But on a stock cammed car it won't do anything but make you go slower to shift that high IF you can even get it to go that high without floating the valves.
I tried out some different shift points my last outing at the track, and my stock cammed 142,000 mile automatic car ran faster at shifting 6200 than the stock 6000 shift points. I only have a lid, ram air kit, catback, tune and EWP.
I didn't make enough runs before it started raining to really make some solid conclusions, but my preliminary results say that more is more.
There's really only one way to know for sure what works best.
Last edited by JonCR96Z; 12-24-2008 at 08:04 PM.
