6 point bar cost?
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From: Carol Stream Il.
6 point bar cost? Looking to get a Wolfe 6 pt. chromoly with the swing outs. This adds about $470 to the price of a mild steel one with no swing outs. What would you do?
I've got the Wolfe 6pt in my car. When you look at cost vs. weight savings on mild steel vs. chromoly it a pretty costly few pounds.... I went mild steel. Mild steel also allows the typical shop guy to weld on it with a MIG, chromoly has to be TIG.
My vote is for mild steel. The low slung side bars aren't that hard to manage getting in and out, but for a DD swingouts may be the way to go.
Another thing to consider is over the back set rear bars or standard rear bars. If you go standard you can't mini-tub with that bar. But if you go over the rear seat you have to drop the gas tank to install a bolt-in.
My vote is for mild steel. The low slung side bars aren't that hard to manage getting in and out, but for a DD swingouts may be the way to go.
Another thing to consider is over the back set rear bars or standard rear bars. If you go standard you can't mini-tub with that bar. But if you go over the rear seat you have to drop the gas tank to install a bolt-in.
The price difference is 120 something dollars in material to basically save you 20 pounds or so in a 6 point. If you went with a full chassis, you'd save over 100 pounds moly vs. mild steel.
Is it worth it to spend 120.00 dollars more to save 20 pounds, compared to other weigh reduction pieces yes. Look how much a set of upper control arms cost and it doesn't even save 10 pounds.
If you care about having the lightest stuff and are serious about racing then moly is the way to go, if you're a guy that wants to be track legal and don't care about every pound and going as fast as possible, then mild steel is better and you can invest the difference in other performance parts.
Moly will always have a higher resale value. I like the wolfe stuff and a few other companies, but honestly with the prices of freight right now having a custom built roll bar would probably end up being close to the same price.
Is it worth it to spend 120.00 dollars more to save 20 pounds, compared to other weigh reduction pieces yes. Look how much a set of upper control arms cost and it doesn't even save 10 pounds.
If you care about having the lightest stuff and are serious about racing then moly is the way to go, if you're a guy that wants to be track legal and don't care about every pound and going as fast as possible, then mild steel is better and you can invest the difference in other performance parts.
Moly will always have a higher resale value. I like the wolfe stuff and a few other companies, but honestly with the prices of freight right now having a custom built roll bar would probably end up being close to the same price.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
I did mild steel to save the $$ for other things, but as mentioned if you have the cash and want the weight savings go moly. It adds up (both ways!) especially if you make the bar a cage later on.
Derek
Derek
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If you plan on ever wanting to upgrade, CM or Steel, talk to the guys at Wolfe about that before you order. There are some cans and cant's associated with their 6 pts and what you can do later on. They are real easy to deal with.
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From: Carol Stream Il.
I will be going with the CM. That wasn't really my point. Just looking for some options. The money, as mentioned, is well spent to not gain an extra 20lbs.
Over the seat that way you can mini tub later, depending on the size tire you want to run, 28" or under I would use a 36" mini tub, if you step up to a 29 or larger tire I would go to a 40" full tub so you can lower the car back down and tuck it some.
