Rear suspension for 8's??
 

I have a 98 Firebird and have a few peices but not sure about a couple.. I have the Moser M9 rear end with full length torque arm Burkhart LCA and PHB going with strange DA shocks . Still not sure on using the Wolfe spring perches. I got the moser housing with the BMR Extreme Drag Bar mounts but all these guys running real street do not use this .. Do you guys think that bar will be enough?

Look on the cover of every Mag that covered the LSx shoot out ;) Its enough ask Bob ;)

http://image.gmhightechperformance.c...x-shootout.jpg

8 what?

Big difference between 8.90 and 8.00.

I ran 8.90s with a bolt in random tech torque arm with a TH400 trans relocation crossmember (poly T/A bushing as well), 50.00 CE shocks, single adjustable Strange front shocks and LCA reloction brackets. Thats a consistent 1.25-4.29 60 foot setup with a 3400lb car.

So anything thats better than what I have should 60 foot as good or better ;)

Don't forget years of experience :lol: :lol:

That's worth more than the best suspension parts on the market. You're proof of that.

Hell, i wonder what you could do with some better parts on there.

I dunno, I dont worry much about the suspension parts really, they do their job. I wonder what I could do with 300 more HP and weighing 300lbs less though ;)

Get it done :)

There's 100 lbs that can probably go easy, rest is gonna take some effort $, another 300 hp, not sure if the belt will hold it, but a gear drive unit, offset radiator and an air to water intercooler will do it.

Or go to alcohol and ditch the intercooler all together. Alot less plumbing, ad alot less weight and boost loss

well the bbc that im planning on using next year will not be faster than high 8's. but once i get the other motor together i plan on low 8's high 7's. What about the Wolfe Spring perches, do you think that would be a waste of time? Just use a stock spring?

i'm no expert or anything,but i will tell you one secrect,having as much adjustability as possible is very very important,that includes-lower control arms and mounting points,torque arm frt mounting points,sway bar,ride height,pinion angle.Having the correct parts is 1/4 the battle,how you put them to use is the real difference

i hear ya man .. sucks you guys didnt make it to the track friday.. i went anyway and there wasnt that many guys there. the Viper was there , that thing is a pretty bad looking ride as well.

I did suck we couldnt make it,but there were alot of issues that needed addressed before racing again.I'm coming up next weekend and we are going to do some testing on sun and mon on my car and Phil's,trying to get ready for 1320x.Sal's car is pretty impressive.

But i'm lazy, so it will stay the way it is lol.

Honestly I spend some time on 60 foots because my car makes little power.

But naturally you need solid parts that dont break mainly, as far as adjustability, if things are adjustable that dont really matter (or the car isnt consistent enough power-wise to make proper adjustments) then its a waste of time and money. Sometimes less things to adjust is less things to screw up..

Anyhow, I would do the adjustable spring perches, its well worth it if you are going to be moving weight around for both preload and ride height adjustment.

KP so how much power did u have to make to go 8's?

737rwhp corrected dynojet @ 3350lbs.

Probably closer to 800rw when it did it, weather was pretty good.

hmmm,so adjustability isnt important-maybe you're right,they just put that stuff on there so they can charge more.Well if i were to waste my time and money that's where i would waste it.And less things to adjust is less things to screw up but it also separates the men from the boys-and first and last place

some true but tough words there shawn!! :engarde:

I didnt say it want important, just for some people more adjustments = more confusion. Just because you have 100 holes doesnt mean 98 of them wont ever be used by most people.

you are exactly right there-the complexity is certainly more-but if it were easy everybody would go fast:D