front suspension theories
front suspension theories i've recently talked a little with madman (steve at the shop being the middle man) and it seems like i've ran into 2 different theories both seem to work.
madman has tuned on some of the top street cars
and back in late 90's ealry 2000 my friend (mitch) was a top runner EZ car in a mustang
now these 2 setups may only work on these 2 types of cars... im not real sure
here's just a basic run down of what tad bit i've gathered.
these are BBC cars
(friend)- foxbody mustang- likes to set the front up with long soft springs (14" long 180lb )that at ride height are very close to coil bind... storing lots of energy on the starting line and keeping lots of travel in the shocks for extension. keep spanner nut as far down as possilbe
madman- 4th gen fbody- long stiff springs (14" 325lb) seems like he doesnt want much if any motion in the shock and doesnt mind if the spanner nut is high on the shock.
i've talked to my friend extensively so i can speak for him pretty confidently however i didnt get to have a long drawn out conversation brian.
keep in mind my friend ran when there werent any programmable boxes. he used a clutch to keep the car hooked. This could have a huge playing part in why he chose to keep his stuff as loose as he did. and why madman runs his stuff so tight because we can now tip-toe down shitty tracks by a tune up...
i hope brian gets in here to explain a little.
thanks,
tyler
madman has tuned on some of the top street cars
and back in late 90's ealry 2000 my friend (mitch) was a top runner EZ car in a mustang
now these 2 setups may only work on these 2 types of cars... im not real sure
here's just a basic run down of what tad bit i've gathered.
these are BBC cars
(friend)- foxbody mustang- likes to set the front up with long soft springs (14" long 180lb )that at ride height are very close to coil bind... storing lots of energy on the starting line and keeping lots of travel in the shocks for extension. keep spanner nut as far down as possilbe
madman- 4th gen fbody- long stiff springs (14" 325lb) seems like he doesnt want much if any motion in the shock and doesnt mind if the spanner nut is high on the shock.
i've talked to my friend extensively so i can speak for him pretty confidently however i didnt get to have a long drawn out conversation brian.
keep in mind my friend ran when there werent any programmable boxes. he used a clutch to keep the car hooked. This could have a huge playing part in why he chose to keep his stuff as loose as he did. and why madman runs his stuff so tight because we can now tip-toe down shitty tracks by a tune up...
i hope brian gets in here to explain a little.
thanks,
tyler
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
I would agree with Madman.
I have ran the QA1 15FB275's and the 15FB325's on my Camaro (~3400# BBC car) and found that the 15" 275# springs did not perform as well as the 325# springs.
Talking to QA1, they said I could actually go heavier than the 325# to help control the landing and ease the "slamming" from the excessive BBC nose weight, however they do not make it so I would have to source the spring elsewhere.
I have ran the QA1 15FB275's and the 15FB325's on my Camaro (~3400# BBC car) and found that the 15" 275# springs did not perform as well as the 325# springs.
Talking to QA1, they said I could actually go heavier than the 325# to help control the landing and ease the "slamming" from the excessive BBC nose weight, however they do not make it so I would have to source the spring elsewhere.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Huntertown, IN
I was wondering the same thing. When I see Jim Filipowskis car run, his front is way high, even down track. I know his is a LSX, and we are talking big blocks here. I wonder if he agrees with your friends theory? Is the idea that a loose spring keeps the weight on the back tires all the way down the track?
you have to have initial lift for any small tire car... it may not be much but you do have to have some...
there will be no slamming the front cause you set the ride height just above complete coil bind... meaning if it slams down the spring will compress all the way and stop not slam the rad support or oil pan *hopefully*
there will be no slamming the front cause you set the ride height just above complete coil bind... meaning if it slams down the spring will compress all the way and stop not slam the rad support or oil pan *hopefully*
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11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
I use 14" 150lb springs on my 2960lb car (no driver). My springs are almost to the point of bind so alot of energy is stored. I need dramatic nose lift cause its a stick car leaving at 7000rpms. Even though my nose is loose I don't get the hook and spin (unload) after the initial hit. The car carries it I guess cause of I have removed a lot of weight on the nose (tubular front end). If the car is being put on the bumper can't you just put in some travel limiters rather than run a stiffer spring?
-Mark
-Mark
The typical drag race convention over the last 30 plus years has been to have the front end rise quickly and get the weight on the back tires. A lighter spring up front fits this profile. Ive had 10 and 11 second cars that this works well on, and most super street and bracket cars fit this case. Some vehicles don't need a lot of lift on the front to get weight transfer to the back. My 4 link cars have fit the latter. Prostocks a good example of little front end travel compared to a bracket car.
when i watch brady's car leave it leaves like a chassis car it has hardly any movement in the whole car at all and it hauls the mail on stock suspension.... my only question is can it still hook decent on a sub par track in poor conditions?
even on exotic performances car who cant keep it off the bumper run 325lb springs.... hmmmm i guess ill give the 325lb springs a shot since they are next to my desk....