VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I am keeping his name a secret because he is disappointed with his #'s. He went to a dyno day and with his car tuned via mail order he put down 421rwhp/383rwtq.. Another low # in our area compared to places like Texas and other places.. I think he has a stock 10 bolt with 3.42's. I think he is going to get more tuning to see if he could get those #'s up, but this is what we see from OUR dyno's as the norm.. I will try to find out who did his heads, but he is being very secretive. To add to it.. He sold his TEA 5.3L Stage I heads to a local guy because he did not think the heads were up to par.. That local guy put down 417rwhp/386rwtq with the TR230 cam..

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Still pretty good #s, none the less, tq is a little low but peak HP is good.

silverTA

a4 or m6

glhs379

iTrader: (1)

Like to know whos heads he used. With a stock 10 bolt his numbers should be alot higher.

Venkman

iTrader: (4)

If he has heads, then all he needs is tuning to get those numbers up a little. If he is cam only, then i dont see why he'd think those numbers are low

SNAXS

I dont know why people post Dyno #'s and say they are dissapointed. I dont understand. Maybe he expected to be in the 440 RWHP range? Most cars that are in that range are either Factory freaks or have many mods. My car for one went 14.0 stock so on a dyno(stock) it probably wouldnt make that much power. With most bolt ons MTI S2 Heads/X1 Cam it dynoed 393RWHP and 373 RWTQ. Im not posting why I have low dyno #'s, because I know my car was very weak out of the factory compared to other cars. My point: Theres probably many reasons why he does have low Dyno #'s. People expect because Car A made 440 RWHP and that Car B should make the same power. Not really.

I for one would be VERY happy if my car made 410 RWHP with the converter Unlocked but I also know my car wasnt as strong as others. When I has some bolt ons(converter, headers, gears etc.) I would lose to A4's with lids.


Also,Dyno #'s dont mean Jack Shi! Check sig. Full Race Weight. Take it to the track, it just might suprise you.

Just my .02

SNAXS

One more thing, Im running those times will every LS1 mod possible and engine work while some people can do that with just Boltons.

BTW: My G5X2 will be installed next week, so Ill let you know how it does over the X1(230/227 .591/.571 114)

Iv_z28

I personally don't think that if you have low #'s from the factory, your #'s should always be low. You replace old parts and put it better ones. If you are limited by manifolds and put in headers, then I assume you should make the same #'s as a factory car which did better stock because of better manifolds.. ...there is no magic about those #'s, so if you put all the possible bolt-ons and have your engine totally rebuilt and retuned, stock #'s should become irrelevant. JMO.

FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

There is alot of other factors that can make a difference on the dyno bewteen one persons G5X2 and another persons in a different city/state etc

What Dyno equipment?
What was the weather?
Did he have proper tuning done?
Air/Fuel Ratio #'s? WOT Timing #'s?

Also what year is his motor?
If his motor is old, does it have alot of miles? It could probably use a freshening up etc..

His dyno #'s are still very good for a 346 LS1.

Me personally, I only goto the dyno for tuning. I test **** out at the track. I don't care if a cam puts down 475 rwhp dyno, if it don't show better ET at the track its going in the trash.

I've always had nothing but success with the Thunder Racing cams and the MTI cams (stock cube and aftermarket heads). I would like to test out the G5X2 cam with my current setup to see the difference on the dyno as well as at the track. I'll have to buy one someday.

Lee

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Low factory numbers problem should "go away" when you do heads, cam, and a new tune. You are getting rid of any "bad" in the system.

Nickn20

lets get some track times!

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I have decide to not worry about dyno #s anymore. One of my combos had high 420s at the wheels and ended up going low 11s @ 124. You can't really compare dynos to dynos because they all say there is a 3% variance between models not including other variables. Take it to the track.
Phillip

CHRISPY

Not if you have a ring problem

J-Rod

Also, the tune was mail-order, and the heads are "unknown". They could be junk heads... There are several options, including a dyno that reads low. Like others have said... Track time.

jmX

What is wrong with 421rwhp? In Austin, that'd be like the 2nd or 3rd highest Heads/cam # I've ever seen on the local dyno.

If he wants 430, open headers or possibly tuning would get him there.

mike m

iTrader: (6)

Im sure its in the tune. He should contact LG.

Mike K.

Seems here in Florida atleast in the Tampa to
Orlando area that everyone dyno's lower than what many post on these boards. 420 hp is excellent for down here. Also Vince what other mods does he have. Cutout, UD pulley, Headers ETC.. these things may have something to do with his #'s but regardless he should be very happy with those numbers. He is higher than most down here.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

**Sigh**

Vince... Im going to say this one last time as Ive said it MANY... I sold the heads and cam because my *** was BROKE!! I needed money for bills.. I dont make the $$$ to dunp $10k into my car. Why do you think it sat on jackstands for 11 MONTHS untill I could get it to run?! I was almost homeless and lost everything.. Do you want my personal history too? Quit saying stuff you have NO clue about. Ask Dan (who bought the stuff) how broke I was. Hell, I sold the heads without a core just to sell them.

Yes, it was me that dynoed. I have ~1300 miles on my new motor with a terminal bottom end (bad oil pressure) and some SES codes (for rear O2s not there and AIR system not there.. dont know if that makes a difference). I dynoed 422/389 -- Graph here -- This is on a mail order tune, so its a safe tune. I dont know max timing because my laptop battery is DOA. I also have a FULL exhaust with 2 one chamber Flowmasters (no cutouts). The weather was 90*s and ~90% humidity (checked when I got home). There was a very small squirrl cage fan in the front of the car for cooling (not enough). The guy didnt know SQUAT about dynoing a car. He did the runs back to back with only 4 minutes of cool down.. He also couldnt get readings on the autos because he didnt know how to dyno them so I dont really know how accurate this dyno is.. hence why I wasnt telling anyone!!! I also have Comp R lifters and the preload is waaay too tight (stock) untill I can afford to get adjustable rockers. Also, look through my new motor album and check out my intake runners.. notice all the oil... I dont think that helps...

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Im also not disappointed with the numbers. It still has alot left in it with a dyno tune and some small changes.

My mods are...
new motor (~1300 miles)
6 speed
Kooks 1 3/4 headers
3" true duals with X pipe and 2 one chamber Flowmasters
TSP lid
Holley filter
ported MAF ends
Ported TB
SVO 30# injectors
Stock rear
tire pressure at 30 PSI
full belts
mail order tune
FTRA
ASP crank pulley
MSD wires
TR55 plugs

Now, Vince, you can tell everyone in Tampa

TA Dave

Carl for where you're at right now, The numbers are good.

Better Tune, weather and tweaking and you will be where you want to be.

Next time you're at the shop, talk to Keefer, we picked up more than you'd think going from Flowmasters to Dynomax's...