Torquer V3 and PRC Stage 2.5 LS6 heads on 2 different dynos
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Torquer V3 and PRC Stage 2.5 LS6 heads on 2 different dynos
Fbody car, full bolt ons, with V3 cam and PRC LS6 heads, LS6 intake, 1 7/8" headers with ORY and Corsa. M6 car with stock gearing. Originally tuned in 70* weather with low humidity on a dynojet and made 421hp/389tq. The tune is spot on. Perfect A/F ratio, perfect drivability.
I had the chance to strap in down at another shop and do a few pulls, also on a dynojet. On this day it was hot and humid. 97* and high humidity. The car with same mods put down 446hp/409tq.
The only problem at both shops is it started pulling vacuum as early as 3000rpm all the way to redline at 7000. They both said it was due to a restriction in the intake somewhere. Either the LS6 intake, the throttle body (ported stocker), stock MAF, SLP Lid or a combination of all of the above. I found this odd and I've never heard of this problem before. Both shops said with a better flowing intake system to expect even better numbers, and it would also stop pulling vacuum.
But I guess the bottom line is both shops are well known and it just shows how far off dyno numbers can be on any given dyno and day. If anything, my numbers should have been much lower on the hot and humid day. At this point I could give a **** about dyno numbers as long as the cars drives good and pulls hard, which is does.
And next time your bolt on, cam only car makes numbers like 440hp/410tq, take those readings with a grain of salt.
I had the chance to strap in down at another shop and do a few pulls, also on a dynojet. On this day it was hot and humid. 97* and high humidity. The car with same mods put down 446hp/409tq.
The only problem at both shops is it started pulling vacuum as early as 3000rpm all the way to redline at 7000. They both said it was due to a restriction in the intake somewhere. Either the LS6 intake, the throttle body (ported stocker), stock MAF, SLP Lid or a combination of all of the above. I found this odd and I've never heard of this problem before. Both shops said with a better flowing intake system to expect even better numbers, and it would also stop pulling vacuum.
But I guess the bottom line is both shops are well known and it just shows how far off dyno numbers can be on any given dyno and day. If anything, my numbers should have been much lower on the hot and humid day. At this point I could give a **** about dyno numbers as long as the cars drives good and pulls hard, which is does.
And next time your bolt on, cam only car makes numbers like 440hp/410tq, take those readings with a grain of salt.
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With you setup I think a Fast intake would benefit you, but it's up to you if it's worth it, sounds like the car is running healthy.
You could do a GM 85mm maf with no screen or the wider mesh aftermarket screen for cheap and see if it helps some but you are likely just at the limit of the stock intake, especially in the higher RPM range.
You could do a GM 85mm maf with no screen or the wider mesh aftermarket screen for cheap and see if it helps some but you are likely just at the limit of the stock intake, especially in the higher RPM range.
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I found this odd and I've never heard of this problem before.
Both shops said with a better flowing intake system to expect even better numbers
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Interesting results. My car was tuned on a pretty stingy dynojet, and I've wondered what it'd make on a different one. Dynos are just tools though, and track times are the ultimate barometer.
Jason
Jason
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I'm getting off point here. My main point was to show that different dyno's can read a wide range of numbers when running the same car with same mods, under different temp and humidity conditions.
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With you setup I think a Fast intake would benefit you, but it's up to you if it's worth it, sounds like the car is running healthy.
You could do a GM 85mm maf with no screen or the wider mesh aftermarket screen for cheap and see if it helps some but you are likely just at the limit of the stock intake, especially in the higher RPM range.
You could do a GM 85mm maf with no screen or the wider mesh aftermarket screen for cheap and see if it helps some but you are likely just at the limit of the stock intake, especially in the higher RPM range.
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You mentioned weather conditions during both dyno runs being different. Were the runs in Std or corrected configuration of the dyno's?.
If they were corrected runs then weather would have been factored & calculated, the runs would be comparable.
I always watch the torque numbers the dyno indicates, if you see inflated numbers that's a pretty good indicator.
If they were corrected runs then weather would have been factored & calculated, the runs would be comparable.
I always watch the torque numbers the dyno indicates, if you see inflated numbers that's a pretty good indicator.
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That seems odd that it's throwing codes with 3". IIRC mine was ~4 before the larger MAF and a bigger inlet air filter and the car ran fine. I haven't even checked it since then.
I might be confused on the measurement though. I compared the MAP reading with key on engine off to the reading at WOT. Started developing a discrepancy around 4k rpm.
I might be confused on the measurement though. I compared the MAP reading with key on engine off to the reading at WOT. Started developing a discrepancy around 4k rpm.
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Other than throwing the MAP code it runs fine. It will only throw the code if I drive it hard and repeatedly shift at around 6500rpm. If I shift at 6000-6200, it's fine and won't trigger the light.
#12
I just purchased same setup as you but have a fast 92 TB and ported 92 intake. Ill let you know when I get my car dynoed what the numbers are so maybe we can compare how much that LS6 is holding you back