As cast TFS 220/Stock LS6/Stock TB/1 x 3/4"/custom cam
09-23-2012, 07:01 PM
#61
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Engine- Idle, RPM tab, too the right of that window you will see Update Err Time. In the middle of the same window is Proportional subsection Enable RPM, Just below it will be Integral subsection Enable RPM error
The reason I was stating to leave the 5200rpm reason a little bit fatter is it is prone to KR on a Eddy Current Dyno or Road testing in the Real world.. but some combos due different things.. Post back with a scan log when you get a chance.
The reason I was stating to leave the 5200rpm reason a little bit fatter is it is prone to KR on a Eddy Current Dyno or Road testing in the Real world.. but some combos due different things.. Post back with a scan log when you get a chance.
09-23-2012, 08:29 PM
#62
Here is a scan log from a little bit ago. And I still cant find those tables you are talking about...Either im retarded or something. The biggest thing with the car now is like the "cruise control" feeling im getting. I let off the clutch coasting down a hill and it pops down to 1100 for a milisecond and then hangs up at 2100 rpm for as long as im rolling. I was going like 45. You can see around 7min on this scan what its doing. I attached a screen shot of HP since I cant find the window to adjust those values.
09-23-2012, 08:57 PM
#63
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Youll have to have HPTuners in Advanced Mode, to view the other tables and get the updated BETA version over on the hptuners forum..
As for the Cruise feeling try bringing your throttle cracker down. Multiply the whole table by .70
Havent had a chance to look at the scan log yet as Im packing for work... will look asap
As for the Cruise feeling try bringing your throttle cracker down. Multiply the whole table by .70
Havent had a chance to look at the scan log yet as Im packing for work... will look asap
09-23-2012, 10:57 PM
#64
I got it into advanced mode and made the changes. It still likes hanging up around 1600-2000rpm. I left 7/11 earlier and pulled out like 50 feet to a stop sign (whole time going no more than 5-10mph) and it hung up on high rpm too. I doubt i have a vacuum leak but would my IAC counts and TPS voltage affect that at all?
09-24-2012, 09:15 AM
#65
Again I thank you for your help with my customer.
I got it into advanced mode and made the changes. It still likes hanging up around 1600-2000rpm. I left 7/11 earlier and pulled out like 50 feet to a stop sign (whole time going no more than 5-10mph) and it hung up on high rpm too. I doubt i have a vacuum leak but would my IAC counts and TPS voltage affect that at all?
09-24-2012, 04:51 PM
#66
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Been working since 2:30am last night. So i appologize for the delay, but will try to take a look at your scan log in the next hour or 2 when i get back to my computer.
09-24-2012, 07:37 PM
#67
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Your IAC counts look a little bit on the low side (I shoot for 35-60) so the base idle airflow could be off a bit. But lets try toying with the Throttle Cracker/Follower..
First, SAVE the original tune file for your car.
Now onto,
Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower (LOCATION: HPT > Engine > Idle > Idle Airflow > Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower) adjustments are for off idle transitions (exp. coming to a stop). As a guideline, zero out your throttle cracker table from columns 400-1000rpm and through rows 0-32mph. Set the 1600rpm column from 0-12MPH to ZERO also. Highlight the 400 to 2800RPM columns inclusive and click on the smooth selection icon. Again, smoothing is a good idea for proper transitions. These changes should let your car return to idle quicker and prevent the “cruise control” feeling when you take your foot off the throttle.
The “Cruise Control” feeling is normally from too much Base Running Airflow however since your IAC look a little on the low, more than likely your Throttle Cracker Airflow table is to blame. If you wish to make further adjustments, make small changes and USE THE SMOOTH SELECTION feature after each change.
BEFORE YOU UPLOAD THE TUNE SAVE THE FILE AS A NEW NAME, I.E. (IDLE_CRUISE_TEST)!!
Let us know how the car reacts to those changes
If the car looses the "cruise control" feeling but tends to surge idle post back and I will walk you through the Follower table.
First, SAVE the original tune file for your car.
Now onto,
Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower (LOCATION: HPT > Engine > Idle > Idle Airflow > Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower) adjustments are for off idle transitions (exp. coming to a stop). As a guideline, zero out your throttle cracker table from columns 400-1000rpm and through rows 0-32mph. Set the 1600rpm column from 0-12MPH to ZERO also. Highlight the 400 to 2800RPM columns inclusive and click on the smooth selection icon. Again, smoothing is a good idea for proper transitions. These changes should let your car return to idle quicker and prevent the “cruise control” feeling when you take your foot off the throttle.
The “Cruise Control” feeling is normally from too much Base Running Airflow however since your IAC look a little on the low, more than likely your Throttle Cracker Airflow table is to blame. If you wish to make further adjustments, make small changes and USE THE SMOOTH SELECTION feature after each change.
BEFORE YOU UPLOAD THE TUNE SAVE THE FILE AS A NEW NAME, I.E. (IDLE_CRUISE_TEST)!!
Let us know how the car reacts to those changes
If the car looses the "cruise control" feeling but tends to surge idle post back and I will walk you through the Follower table.
09-25-2012, 09:16 AM
#69
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Thanks for the kind words martin. But Ive been in the same situation as the OP, so Im just "paying it foward" you could say. Be greatful to a forum where information like this can be shared by knowledgable beings, and look beyond the haters and chain yankers (although some of them are mods here, somehow). A well informed community will keep the LSx strong and I hope the tips/tricks/ideas are payed foward. In the end it helps all of us, vendors/calibrators/builders/enthusiast.
Heck, I might be the next one posting for ideas in the suspension tech!
This forum is a great tool, I hope the OP uses it to its potential and keeps us updated with his cars progress. Hope to see it in the multimedia section soon with some impressive times/kills!
Heck, I might be the next one posting for ideas in the suspension tech!
This forum is a great tool, I hope the OP uses it to its potential and keeps us updated with his cars progress. Hope to see it in the multimedia section soon with some impressive times/kills!
09-25-2012, 09:39 AM
#70
Thanks for the kind words martin. But Ive been in the same situation as the OP, so Im just "paying it foward" you could say. Be greatful to a forum where information like this can be shared by knowledgable beings, and look beyond the haters and chain yankers (although some of them are mods here, somehow). A well informed community will keep the LSx strong and I hope the tips/tricks/ideas are payed foward. In the end it helps all of us, vendors/calibrators/builders/enthusiast.
Heck, I might be the next one posting for ideas in the suspension tech!
This forum is a great tool, I hope the OP uses it to its potential and keeps us updated with his cars progress. Hope to see it in the multimedia section soon with some impressive times/kills!
Heck, I might be the next one posting for ideas in the suspension tech!
This forum is a great tool, I hope the OP uses it to its potential and keeps us updated with his cars progress. Hope to see it in the multimedia section soon with some impressive times/kills!
Again thank you for all your help.
09-25-2012, 07:04 PM
#71
I tried getting my IAC counts up yesterday to around 60 and did a tps reset and it put my voltage at .54 or somewhere along those lines. Well the car would start and instantly die. It wouldn't idle at all. The hanging RPM's I shouldve said before but it is really bad when the A/C is on and no near as bad when it is off. I will adjust the throttle cracker later today and see if I can get my IAC counts to at least 30. Should I up my TPS voltage after I get the IAC counts where they need to be to keep it running?
Another thing ive noticed is my STFT are around -10% around idle and the car does smell a little rich. What is the best way to pull fuel out or should i just leave it? Via the VE table or adjusting the MAF? Sorry for all the dumb questions.
Again thank you sooooo much for all of the help and wisdom. Words can't describe how thankful I'm for the help I've been getting on this forum.
Another thing ive noticed is my STFT are around -10% around idle and the car does smell a little rich. What is the best way to pull fuel out or should i just leave it? Via the VE table or adjusting the MAF? Sorry for all the dumb questions.
Again thank you sooooo much for all of the help and wisdom. Words can't describe how thankful I'm for the help I've been getting on this forum.
09-25-2012, 07:55 PM
#72
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No need to play with STFTs, you need to run a BASE Idle airflow scan...
If you want you can adjust the STFT's at idle using the MAF select 2800hz-0hz and X .95. But a -10% fuel trim is pretty decent for a cammed car... Most of the time with large amount of overlap you get a + fuel trim which overfuels the car and causes all sorts of problems..
In the end the car is still target stoich (14.68:1 AFR in your case) so in closed loop its not going to make much of a difference.
As for the AC:
First off set your AC Torque Max Retard to zero across the board (HPT > Engine > Torque Management > Engine Torque > AC Torque > Max Retard). If you have issues with a bad stutter when the AC engages, up your “Idle RPMs with the A/C on” (both in gear and in P/N) only by 50RPMs across the board. If you still have issues, run a log and look at the spark advance histogram on the scanner when the A/C engages. Find what g/cyl is referenced at that moment and increase your spark tables in that area to improve stall/surge (don’t go crazy with the timing though a few degrees may be the fix).
Sometimes with the AC you have to lower the A/C Torque TPS Max. (HPT > Engine > Torque Management > Engine Torque > AC Torque > ETC Max) in increments of 10% (Multiply .90) starting with the stock value, but do not go lower than 2.5%
Do you know how to run a Base Idle Airflow Scan???
If you want you can adjust the STFT's at idle using the MAF select 2800hz-0hz and X .95. But a -10% fuel trim is pretty decent for a cammed car... Most of the time with large amount of overlap you get a + fuel trim which overfuels the car and causes all sorts of problems..
In the end the car is still target stoich (14.68:1 AFR in your case) so in closed loop its not going to make much of a difference.
As for the AC:
First off set your AC Torque Max Retard to zero across the board (HPT > Engine > Torque Management > Engine Torque > AC Torque > Max Retard). If you have issues with a bad stutter when the AC engages, up your “Idle RPMs with the A/C on” (both in gear and in P/N) only by 50RPMs across the board. If you still have issues, run a log and look at the spark advance histogram on the scanner when the A/C engages. Find what g/cyl is referenced at that moment and increase your spark tables in that area to improve stall/surge (don’t go crazy with the timing though a few degrees may be the fix).
Sometimes with the AC you have to lower the A/C Torque TPS Max. (HPT > Engine > Torque Management > Engine Torque > AC Torque > ETC Max) in increments of 10% (Multiply .90) starting with the stock value, but do not go lower than 2.5%
Do you know how to run a Base Idle Airflow Scan???
09-25-2012, 08:38 PM
#75
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give those changes a try and chime back... I will post how to run a base idle Airflow scan... let me know how its acting and if its still not making a difference perform the Base Idle Airflow scan and try again..
BASE IDLE AIRFLOW:
Since your car has the LTFT's disabled we are fine with those settings, heres what you need to do.
THIS IS DONE BEST WITH A COLD ENGINE!!
ZERO out Adaptive Idle Parameters by going to HPT > Idle > Idle Airflow > Adaptive Idle Airflow and ZERO out the Max In-Gear AC Off, Min In-Gear AC Off, Max P/N AC off and the Min P/N AC off tables. If you have electric fans, turn them off by setting the “on” temps to something like 250*F (or use the bi-directional controls on the VCM scanner to kill them). Save this tune file with a file name you can remember (i.e. Idle Airflow Tuning) and flash the PCM with these new changes.
Open the Scanner BEFORE STARTING THE CAR.....
click the Histogram table> Locate the "Idle Airflow - Desired Airflow" number tab. (normally 4)...
Connect the Scanner, with the key in RUN position and start scanning.
Next, start the car and do not touch anything such as the throttle, Air Conditioner, Defrost (A/C MUST be OFF) or the gear shifter. As the car is idling, click on Histogram (Idle Airflow-Desired Airflow) and watch as the scanner populates the base running airflow numbers vs ECT. Don’t be afraid to let go over 200*F in order to get a good amount of data.
When you have all of the data, simply copy and paste the data collected in the Histogram to your current tune file you just flashed. The data will be pasted into the Base Running Airflow table (HPT > Engine > Idle > Idle Airflow > Base Running Airflow) into the Gear section. Make sure the values are the same before pasting.. (Imperial/Metric) you will know if you are in one or the other, as the values will look WAAAYYYY off.
Obviously you didn’t get all of the cells logged since the table goes from -40 to 284*F. You can see the pattern of the logged numbers so just interpolate linear the values you didn’t hit.
Once you have the Base Idle Airflow values in... Open a compare file... Select your last driving tune (NOT the IDLE AIRFLOW Tune) and re-enter the Adaptive Idle values you previously zero'd out.... SAVE A NEW TUNE FILE (i.e. Idle_Testing2) and upload the tune with the new changes..
BASE IDLE AIRFLOW:
Since your car has the LTFT's disabled we are fine with those settings, heres what you need to do.
THIS IS DONE BEST WITH A COLD ENGINE!!
ZERO out Adaptive Idle Parameters by going to HPT > Idle > Idle Airflow > Adaptive Idle Airflow and ZERO out the Max In-Gear AC Off, Min In-Gear AC Off, Max P/N AC off and the Min P/N AC off tables. If you have electric fans, turn them off by setting the “on” temps to something like 250*F (or use the bi-directional controls on the VCM scanner to kill them). Save this tune file with a file name you can remember (i.e. Idle Airflow Tuning) and flash the PCM with these new changes.
Open the Scanner BEFORE STARTING THE CAR.....
click the Histogram table> Locate the "Idle Airflow - Desired Airflow" number tab. (normally 4)...
Connect the Scanner, with the key in RUN position and start scanning.
Next, start the car and do not touch anything such as the throttle, Air Conditioner, Defrost (A/C MUST be OFF) or the gear shifter. As the car is idling, click on Histogram (Idle Airflow-Desired Airflow) and watch as the scanner populates the base running airflow numbers vs ECT. Don’t be afraid to let go over 200*F in order to get a good amount of data.
When you have all of the data, simply copy and paste the data collected in the Histogram to your current tune file you just flashed. The data will be pasted into the Base Running Airflow table (HPT > Engine > Idle > Idle Airflow > Base Running Airflow) into the Gear section. Make sure the values are the same before pasting.. (Imperial/Metric) you will know if you are in one or the other, as the values will look WAAAYYYY off.
Obviously you didn’t get all of the cells logged since the table goes from -40 to 284*F. You can see the pattern of the logged numbers so just interpolate linear the values you didn’t hit.
Once you have the Base Idle Airflow values in... Open a compare file... Select your last driving tune (NOT the IDLE AIRFLOW Tune) and re-enter the Adaptive Idle values you previously zero'd out.... SAVE A NEW TUNE FILE (i.e. Idle_Testing2) and upload the tune with the new changes..
09-26-2012, 01:49 PM
#77
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Not familar with it martin... ive always used the config on HPtuners vcm scanner. Going off some of the instructions and notes i have joted down from "the tuning school" advanced edition, and institutional knowledge that i have gained playing around on other LSx vehicles.
Post the config tho if you can attach it... Im always open to use something different or better than what i have
Post the config tho if you can attach it... Im always open to use something different or better than what i have
09-27-2012, 02:24 PM
#78
Hey guys been super busy lately. Got a daily driver car so I can leave my camaro in the garage and not put so many miles on it. I will update the changes and run the scan and post up results. I should be able to get that done today. Thanks again for all of the help.
09-29-2012, 12:33 PM
#80
MArtin@Tick,
How is the valvetrain noise with this build? No "sewing machine noise" alot of people get with cam setups?
I really like how you reply to all questions. Very imformative!!!! So. Thanks. LOL
Jim
How is the valvetrain noise with this build? No "sewing machine noise" alot of people get with cam setups?
I really like how you reply to all questions. Very imformative!!!! So. Thanks. LOL
Jim
