243 headed 370 lq4 final dyno results
11-03-2012, 08:46 AM
#21
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Turn It to 6800-7000 rpms and you will et quicker. Especially important with only 3.23 gears so it don't drop back so low in the power band on shifts .
Good pass's , my lq4 in a 6 spd car with 4.10 gears shifting at 7000 with f14 cam 232/234 112lsa +4 and run 11.32@122.
Point is, run the rpms up some.
These lq4's are tough .
Good pass's , my lq4 in a 6 spd car with 4.10 gears shifting at 7000 with f14 cam 232/234 112lsa +4 and run 11.32@122.
Point is, run the rpms up some.
These lq4's are tough .
11-03-2012, 04:51 PM
#22
Turn It to 6800-7000 rpms and you will et quicker. Especially important with only 3.23 gears so it don't drop back so low in the power band on shifts .
Good pass's , my lq4 in a 6 spd car with 4.10 gears shifting at 7000 with f14 cam 232/234 112lsa +4 and run 11.32@122.
Point is, run the rpms up some.
These lq4's are tough .
Good pass's , my lq4 in a 6 spd car with 4.10 gears shifting at 7000 with f14 cam 232/234 112lsa +4 and run 11.32@122.
Point is, run the rpms up some.
These lq4's are tough .
11-03-2012, 11:23 PM
#23
1.65 60 ft and my heads are mildly ported 241's with 2.02 int. stock exh babes.
Exhaust side is ported nice and have good flow but the intake only flowed 257 CFM at .600.
These heads have made good power on my ls1 at 441/410 with an f13 and now 452/422 with f14 in lq4.
My car is full weight and with a 12 bolt and steel drive shaft weighs over 3800 with me .ill post a video of the 11.32 run
Exhaust side is ported nice and have good flow but the intake only flowed 257 CFM at .600.
These heads have made good power on my ls1 at 441/410 with an f13 and now 452/422 with f14 in lq4.
My car is full weight and with a 12 bolt and steel drive shaft weighs over 3800 with me .ill post a video of the 11.32 run
11-04-2012, 12:15 AM
#25
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Bwg_...e_gdata_player
And here is a thread about the heads
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...any-power.html
And here is a thread about the heads
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...any-power.html
i weighed my car yesterday, apperantly i'm at 3660, i'll double check again next friday..
It seems we're around the same power levels, with you making a little bit more than i am. I just gotta learn how to race my car right. I haven't been able to replicate my previous 1.64 60ft yet.. What's your suspension setup like?
11-04-2012, 09:06 PM
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Blasphemy i know, but i don't think i want to drop tire pressure anymore than i already have, and if i can dead hook at 25 psi on a 2k rpm launch im good lol
11-05-2012, 10:52 PM
#30
11-21-2012, 11:52 AM
#32
1.65 60 ft and my heads are mildly ported 241's with 2.02 int. stock exh babes.
Exhaust side is ported nice and have good flow but the intake only flowed 257 CFM at .600.
These heads have made good power on my ls1 at 441/410 with an f13 and now 452/422 with f14 in lq4.
My car is full weight and with a 12 bolt and steel drive shaft weighs over 3800 with me .ill post a video of the 11.32 run
Exhaust side is ported nice and have good flow but the intake only flowed 257 CFM at .600.
These heads have made good power on my ls1 at 441/410 with an f13 and now 452/422 with f14 in lq4.
My car is full weight and with a 12 bolt and steel drive shaft weighs over 3800 with me .ill post a video of the 11.32 run
11-23-2012, 09:41 AM
#34
I'm very glad you're enjoying the cam!
As others have said dyno's are no more than a tuning tool especially with a stalled automatic transmission. Your times at the track show that the car is getting the power to the ground, and if you could improve upon your short times you have a 10.99 pass in there for sure!
BTW I like the "a cup cam" comment LOL, that torque curve is very nice!
The cam specs are 231/238 .617"/.585" 113+3 which proves you don't need huge lift on the exhaust to run fast with stock heads.
For comparison here is a LS2 GTO we just dyno'd Wednesday with the same cam. Mods on the GTO include:
-Stock heads and compression
-Ported LS2 intake
-Stock TB
-1x3/4" SLP headers
-Unsure on brand of intake, but it was an OTR type intake
-Spin Tech exhaust
-231/238 .617"/.585" 113+3 Tick Performance "Street Heat" Stage 2 for LS1 camshaft
Now remember the LS2 cam from the factory is 204/211 .525"/.525" 116 lsa so it's larger than a LS1 or a truck motor cam which will show smaller gains compared to those engines. Still none the less it makes for a fun power curve with the new cam. As you can see it lost NO power to the stock cam down low in the RPM range the pulls were in.
As others have said dyno's are no more than a tuning tool especially with a stalled automatic transmission. Your times at the track show that the car is getting the power to the ground, and if you could improve upon your short times you have a 10.99 pass in there for sure!
BTW I like the "a cup cam" comment LOL, that torque curve is very nice!
The cam specs are 231/238 .617"/.585" 113+3 which proves you don't need huge lift on the exhaust to run fast with stock heads.
For comparison here is a LS2 GTO we just dyno'd Wednesday with the same cam. Mods on the GTO include:
-Stock heads and compression
-Ported LS2 intake
-Stock TB
-1x3/4" SLP headers
-Unsure on brand of intake, but it was an OTR type intake
-Spin Tech exhaust
-231/238 .617"/.585" 113+3 Tick Performance "Street Heat" Stage 2 for LS1 camshaft
Now remember the LS2 cam from the factory is 204/211 .525"/.525" 116 lsa so it's larger than a LS1 or a truck motor cam which will show smaller gains compared to those engines. Still none the less it makes for a fun power curve with the new cam. As you can see it lost NO power to the stock cam down low in the RPM range the pulls were in.
05-05-2013, 11:06 AM
#35
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quick update, Car is on jackstands again,
Stall is at Yank getting a clean and cut from Dave, he advised me to stay with the 3600 stall since it will work better on nitrous
Transmission is at juans Trans in pasadena in queue to be torn down and see what we can do with it
FAST 92/92 and Martin's nitrous kit are on the car
TSP 1 7/8th stainless headers are here, already installed the driver side on my freetime
Still trying to figure out how to tune cold starts, car won't idle on its own until car warms up
Still waiting on my damn axle shaft from MWC. Still on stock rear end for now.
anything else i should look into while the car is up in the air? I've been wondering about milling the heads finally, I had a chance to last time but the car was still my daily. Is it even possible to remove the heads in the car?
i forget what my static compression ratio is.. i have 243 heads with unmilled 64.45 chambers on a -4cc mahle piston with a 4.030 bore
Stall is at Yank getting a clean and cut from Dave, he advised me to stay with the 3600 stall since it will work better on nitrous
Transmission is at juans Trans in pasadena in queue to be torn down and see what we can do with it
FAST 92/92 and Martin's nitrous kit are on the car
TSP 1 7/8th stainless headers are here, already installed the driver side on my freetime
Still trying to figure out how to tune cold starts, car won't idle on its own until car warms up
Still waiting on my damn axle shaft from MWC. Still on stock rear end for now.
anything else i should look into while the car is up in the air? I've been wondering about milling the heads finally, I had a chance to last time but the car was still my daily. Is it even possible to remove the heads in the car?
i forget what my static compression ratio is.. i have 243 heads with unmilled 64.45 chambers on a -4cc mahle piston with a 4.030 bore
05-05-2013, 08:18 PM
#36
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Just bought:
BMR adjustable panhard rod ( Last time we had the MWC 9" in the car, the driver side tire stuck out a bit)
Flowmaster 3" to 4" merge
4" QTP manual cutout
Will be buying a catch can next week along with an SFI flexplate from Dave@yank
BMR adjustable panhard rod ( Last time we had the MWC 9" in the car, the driver side tire stuck out a bit)
Flowmaster 3" to 4" merge
4" QTP manual cutout
Will be buying a catch can next week along with an SFI flexplate from Dave@yank
05-06-2013, 09:06 AM
#37
I believe when I calculated your compression a while back it was 10.7:1 Richard. You can improve greatly on that.
By milling your heads .032" and running a .040" gasket you'd be at 11.86:1 SCR and 8.97:1 DCR. If you have 93 octane locally to you, that's what I would do. If you want a little more room for error you can take the heads down .028" with a .040" gasket to put you at 11.79:1 SCR and 8.92:1 DCR.
That would IMO wake the engine up a lot. Compression and quench are too majorly overlooked aspects to an engine build. I bet you'd pick up 20rwhp just upping the compression and tightening up the quench.
With the compression/quench upgrades, Fast 92/92, 1x7/8" headers and new exhaust I see you picking up 35-40rwhp easily on the conservative side. 15rwhp from the full point of added compression and quench, 15rwhp from the Fast 92/92, 10rwhp from the headers/exhaust. That said, it will probably be more like 18-20rwhp on the CR/quench, 20rwhp from the Fast 92/92, and 15rwhp from the headers and exhaust/cut-out...maybe 20rwhp when you un-cork the cut-out.
And then there's that nitrous kit.....
I would like to think just on motor you'll wind up in the 11.0-11.2 range@120-122mph. On nitrous....it will all depend on how brave you are and how confident you are in your tune-up. That nitrous system I sold you will put every bit of 500rwhp worth of nitrous through it without a hiccup. On one stage out of two stages that plate was good for 260rwhp. You could easily split that up into a 100 off the starting line and time delay the 2nd stage at 1-1.5 seconds to kick a second 150 and put that thing in the 9's. It will do it and that cam will love the nitrous as well.
By milling your heads .032" and running a .040" gasket you'd be at 11.86:1 SCR and 8.97:1 DCR. If you have 93 octane locally to you, that's what I would do. If you want a little more room for error you can take the heads down .028" with a .040" gasket to put you at 11.79:1 SCR and 8.92:1 DCR.
That would IMO wake the engine up a lot. Compression and quench are too majorly overlooked aspects to an engine build. I bet you'd pick up 20rwhp just upping the compression and tightening up the quench.
With the compression/quench upgrades, Fast 92/92, 1x7/8" headers and new exhaust I see you picking up 35-40rwhp easily on the conservative side. 15rwhp from the full point of added compression and quench, 15rwhp from the Fast 92/92, 10rwhp from the headers/exhaust. That said, it will probably be more like 18-20rwhp on the CR/quench, 20rwhp from the Fast 92/92, and 15rwhp from the headers and exhaust/cut-out...maybe 20rwhp when you un-cork the cut-out.
And then there's that nitrous kit.....
I would like to think just on motor you'll wind up in the 11.0-11.2 range@120-122mph. On nitrous....it will all depend on how brave you are and how confident you are in your tune-up. That nitrous system I sold you will put every bit of 500rwhp worth of nitrous through it without a hiccup. On one stage out of two stages that plate was good for 260rwhp. You could easily split that up into a 100 off the starting line and time delay the 2nd stage at 1-1.5 seconds to kick a second 150 and put that thing in the 9's. It will do it and that cam will love the nitrous as well.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 05-06-2013 at 09:15 AM.
05-08-2013, 10:18 PM
#38
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I believe when I calculated your compression a while back it was 10.7:1 Richard. You can improve greatly on that.
By milling your heads .032" and running a .040" gasket you'd be at 11.86:1 SCR and 8.97:1 DCR. If you have 93 octane locally to you, that's what I would do. If you want a little more room for error you can take the heads down .028" with a .040" gasket to put you at 11.79:1 SCR and 8.92:1 DCR.
That would IMO wake the engine up a lot. Compression and quench are too majorly overlooked aspects to an engine build. I bet you'd pick up 20rwhp just upping the compression and tightening up the quench.
With the compression/quench upgrades, Fast 92/92, 1x7/8" headers and new exhaust I see you picking up 35-40rwhp easily on the conservative side. 15rwhp from the full point of added compression and quench, 15rwhp from the Fast 92/92, 10rwhp from the headers/exhaust. That said, it will probably be more like 18-20rwhp on the CR/quench, 20rwhp from the Fast 92/92, and 15rwhp from the headers and exhaust/cut-out...maybe 20rwhp when you un-cork the cut-out.
And then there's that nitrous kit.....
I would like to think just on motor you'll wind up in the 11.0-11.2 range@120-122mph. On nitrous....it will all depend on how brave you are and how confident you are in your tune-up. That nitrous system I sold you will put every bit of 500rwhp worth of nitrous through it without a hiccup. On one stage out of two stages that plate was good for 260rwhp. You could easily split that up into a 100 off the starting line and time delay the 2nd stage at 1-1.5 seconds to kick a second 150 and put that thing in the 9's. It will do it and that cam will love the nitrous as well.
By milling your heads .032" and running a .040" gasket you'd be at 11.86:1 SCR and 8.97:1 DCR. If you have 93 octane locally to you, that's what I would do. If you want a little more room for error you can take the heads down .028" with a .040" gasket to put you at 11.79:1 SCR and 8.92:1 DCR.
That would IMO wake the engine up a lot. Compression and quench are too majorly overlooked aspects to an engine build. I bet you'd pick up 20rwhp just upping the compression and tightening up the quench.
With the compression/quench upgrades, Fast 92/92, 1x7/8" headers and new exhaust I see you picking up 35-40rwhp easily on the conservative side. 15rwhp from the full point of added compression and quench, 15rwhp from the Fast 92/92, 10rwhp from the headers/exhaust. That said, it will probably be more like 18-20rwhp on the CR/quench, 20rwhp from the Fast 92/92, and 15rwhp from the headers and exhaust/cut-out...maybe 20rwhp when you un-cork the cut-out.
And then there's that nitrous kit.....
I would like to think just on motor you'll wind up in the 11.0-11.2 range@120-122mph. On nitrous....it will all depend on how brave you are and how confident you are in your tune-up. That nitrous system I sold you will put every bit of 500rwhp worth of nitrous through it without a hiccup. On one stage out of two stages that plate was good for 260rwhp. You could easily split that up into a 100 off the starting line and time delay the 2nd stage at 1-1.5 seconds to kick a second 150 and put that thing in the 9's. It will do it and that cam will love the nitrous as well.
What Part number gasket do you recommend exactly? 4.030 bore
and I plan on running a standalone tank/pump for the second stage later on as well.
BTW guys FM merge and 4" QTP cutout and BMR Panhard rod are here.. will post pics in a bit
Still waiting on Dave@yank, Eric@MWC, and Juan to tear down the Tranny and see wtf happened to it.
Anyone know a good way to clean out a trans cooler and the lines?
05-08-2013, 10:31 PM
#39
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Mods that are in queue to be installed.. minus the nitrous stuff
MWC short tq arm with safety hoop, PST Steel Driveshaft, Passenger side axle shaft, Car wash soap in the back
FM merge, 4" cutout, the sock I was looking for this morning, passenger side TSP stainless 1 7/8th header, my new BMR adjustable TQ arm and my two nx tanks
The engine bay the night before I messed up the tranny, Martin@tick did a good job with bending that brake line for the purge, fit like a glove, everything went on easy, hardest part was finding a way to run the wiring through the firewall
MWC short tq arm with safety hoop, PST Steel Driveshaft, Passenger side axle shaft, Car wash soap in the back
FM merge, 4" cutout, the sock I was looking for this morning, passenger side TSP stainless 1 7/8th header, my new BMR adjustable TQ arm and my two nx tanks
The engine bay the night before I messed up the tranny, Martin@tick did a good job with bending that brake line for the purge, fit like a glove
, everything went on easy, hardest part was finding a way to run the wiring through the firewall Last edited by greenvortec97; 05-08-2013 at 10:41 PM.
05-09-2013, 10:59 AM
#40
You like that brake line purge job don't ya! 
So you're only using the one stage for now correct? Whenever you want to use the second stage, all you have to do is jump 12v act. and power off the leash electronics box you're using for the 1st stage and time however much delay you want to put in the second stage. That way you can go 100 off the line or less if you need to and 150-200 1.0 second out and really get that thing moving out.
I'll get that part number for you soon. Text me.
So you're only using the one stage for now correct? Whenever you want to use the second stage, all you have to do is jump 12v act. and power off the leash electronics box you're using for the 1st stage and time however much delay you want to put in the second stage. That way you can go 100 off the line or less if you need to and 150-200 1.0 second out and really get that thing moving out. I'll get that part number for you soon. Text me.