02 Z06 H/C/FAST90 Results
04-17-2013, 08:43 AM
#1
02 Z06 H/C/FAST90 Results Figured I'd post my results up of my recent Heads/Cam/Fast90 update on my 2002 Z06.
Previous results: 380 RWHP / 350 FT-LBS on a Mustang Dyno
Mods were bolt ons and 228/228 112 comp cam.
Felt like updating so went through everything but the short block and added:
TEA Stage 2.5 243's. Fully CNC'd. Freshly gone through by Smithberg Racing here in Omaha with new turned down LS3 2.055 intake and Ferrea 1.575 exhaust valves.
Milled down to 60.5 CC. GM MLS headgasket. Puts me at 11.23 SCR and 8.59 DCR.
Brian Tooley Racing .650 dual springs. Titanium locks and retainers.
Stock rockers with COMP trunion upgrade.
BTR spec'd cam. 227/234 113+2. LSL intake and LXL exhaust lobes.
Home ported (light) FAST 90mm intake with ported and polished LS2 90mm TB.
Bosch 42# green top injectors.
ATI 10% under drive balancer.
LG pro headers and 3" catless X. GHL Bullet exhaust.
New LS7 lifters and LS2 trays.
All new gaskets etc etc.
Just got it dyno tuned by The Shop, Inc. in Lincoln NE on their Mustang dyno and here are the results:
Any thoughts on the wavyness up top? I talked with the tuner and he played with the timing a bit to see if it would smooth out but he said it didn't. He said he has some cars that just act like that on his dyno.
Is this a problem or just something that happens?
Either way the car made right around 440/390 on a Mustang dyno which I'm very happy with! Should put me in the 470 rwhp range on a Dynojet which was my goal.
Biggest part is that the car drives great!
Huge thanks to Brian Tooley for spec'ing the cam and helping with the springs!
Previous results: 380 RWHP / 350 FT-LBS on a Mustang Dyno
Mods were bolt ons and 228/228 112 comp cam.
Felt like updating so went through everything but the short block and added:
TEA Stage 2.5 243's. Fully CNC'd. Freshly gone through by Smithberg Racing here in Omaha with new turned down LS3 2.055 intake and Ferrea 1.575 exhaust valves.
Milled down to 60.5 CC. GM MLS headgasket. Puts me at 11.23 SCR and 8.59 DCR.
Brian Tooley Racing .650 dual springs. Titanium locks and retainers.
Stock rockers with COMP trunion upgrade.
BTR spec'd cam. 227/234 113+2. LSL intake and LXL exhaust lobes.
Home ported (light) FAST 90mm intake with ported and polished LS2 90mm TB.
Bosch 42# green top injectors.
ATI 10% under drive balancer.
LG pro headers and 3" catless X. GHL Bullet exhaust.
New LS7 lifters and LS2 trays.
All new gaskets etc etc.
Just got it dyno tuned by The Shop, Inc. in Lincoln NE on their Mustang dyno and here are the results:
Any thoughts on the wavyness up top? I talked with the tuner and he played with the timing a bit to see if it would smooth out but he said it didn't. He said he has some cars that just act like that on his dyno.
Is this a problem or just something that happens?
Either way the car made right around 440/390 on a Mustang dyno which I'm very happy with! Should put me in the 470 rwhp range on a Dynojet which was my goal.
Biggest part is that the car drives great!
Huge thanks to Brian Tooley for spec'ing the cam and helping with the springs!
04-18-2013, 04:02 PM
#4
Upper end waviness is usually a sign of valve control or fueling issues. Your injector size is appropriate so I'd rule that out. I would suspect valve control. You have LS3 valves, sufficient spring pressure (I'm assuming) and other lightweight components with your titanium retainers and stock rockers which will help a lot. The LSL lobes aren't the most aggressive lobes but they're not mild either. What pushrods are you using? I'm guessing you might be having some net lift losses at higher rpm if your lifters are bleeding down too quickly or your pushrods are deflecting slightly. Either that or you're floating / lofting the valves as a result of spring bounce / surge.
What are you spring rates? And have your springs been shimmed?
It might be a bit of a costly experiment especially if you like how it performs, but I'd try 1) shimming your valvesprings, 2) installing beefier pushrods, and 3) installing some limited travel lifters that are machined to tighter tolerances. That last 10-15 hp is expensive to extract.
What are you spring rates? And have your springs been shimmed?
It might be a bit of a costly experiment especially if you like how it performs, but I'd try 1) shimming your valvesprings, 2) installing beefier pushrods, and 3) installing some limited travel lifters that are machined to tighter tolerances. That last 10-15 hp is expensive to extract.
Last edited by ckpitt55; 04-18-2013 at 04:15 PM.
04-18-2013, 06:32 PM
#5
Thanks for the input! I'm using a 7.375 BTR pushrod. I believe they are 5/16". I'm wondering if it might be too short. Brian originally sent me 7.400 but after checking pre-load I thought it was too high. Do you think .025 would have that big of an impact?
Not sure what the spring rates are, but I'm pretty sure they are the BTR Platinums.
The springs are not shimmed at all but the guy who went through the heads set them at 1.770 installed height vs. brians recommended 1.780 so they are now a .650 lift spring as opposed to a .660 lift spring but I don't think that really would affect anything.
It drives fine but I don't want to risk ruining those lifters and sending parts into the motor if they are being lofted off the cam.
Any additional ideas outside of tearing parts off the motor?
Not sure what the spring rates are, but I'm pretty sure they are the BTR Platinums.
The springs are not shimmed at all but the guy who went through the heads set them at 1.770 installed height vs. brians recommended 1.780 so they are now a .650 lift spring as opposed to a .660 lift spring but I don't think that really would affect anything.
It drives fine but I don't want to risk ruining those lifters and sending parts into the motor if they are being lofted off the cam.
Any additional ideas outside of tearing parts off the motor?
04-19-2013, 07:53 AM
#6
If that dyno is calibrated as Mustang suggests your combination is very strong!
Were you there when they were setting up the dyno & first running the car? One of the procedures is checking for stable Tach pick up.
You could go back to your tuner & get him to bring the run & click on "Graph by MPH" & see how it looks Or you could send me the data from your runs & I will play around with software a little for you.
Were you there when they were setting up the dyno & first running the car? One of the procedures is checking for stable Tach pick up.
You could go back to your tuner & get him to bring the run & click on "Graph by MPH" & see how it looks Or you could send me the data from your runs & I will play around with software a little for you.
04-19-2013, 12:56 PM
#7
I was not there when they dyno tuned the car. I wanted to be but my schedule just wouldn't allow it.
I'll check into the "graph by MPH" and the data log from the runs. If I can get it (pretty sure I'll be able to) I'll PM you. Thanks for the help!!!!
I'll check into the "graph by MPH" and the data log from the runs. If I can get it (pretty sure I'll be able to) I'll PM you. Thanks for the help!!!!
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04-19-2013, 01:19 PM
#9
Thanks! Yeah your setup is similar. Definitely post up what it makes. What kinda dyno are you going to get it tuned on?
Oh a few things I wanted to add to be realistic that definitely helped out the numbers:
This was done in like 45 degree weather. Been a crazy spring here in NE.
This was also done with a 17x11.5 ccw classic w/ the extra swissing and a 315 tire. Not sure what it weighs but I think it may be a little lighter than a factory 18x10.5.
Oh a few things I wanted to add to be realistic that definitely helped out the numbers:
This was done in like 45 degree weather. Been a crazy spring here in NE.
This was also done with a 17x11.5 ccw classic w/ the extra swissing and a 315 tire. Not sure what it weighs but I think it may be a little lighter than a factory 18x10.5.
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06-26-2013, 03:34 PM
#18
