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BIG THANKS TO GREG OVER AT FIT CONVERTERS. BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE U COULD EVER ASK FOR
So greg over at FTI sent me out a new converter .. i installed the 9' SST 5k stall.. took car to the track.. i was able to pick up .5 seconts and drop my 60 ft to a 1.6xx running off the footbrak. only got two time runs but i was able to pick up a best time of 11.5xx @ 118 mph. so i saw a trap speed increase of 4 mph shifting at 6400 passing the traps at 5900/6000 rpm. Converter slip was only 1.5 percent as opposed the 15 percent i was seeing on the other converter!!!!
afterwards i took it back over to efx to do a quick dyno pull to do a data log. this time i was able to pull the car all the way to 6900 rpm as opposed to 6500. dont have a graph but we saw the car was starting to pull vaccuum at around 6000 rpm..
so my next step is to upgrade to a fast 102 to at least fix the problem we are able to see on the date log that combined with fixing the restriction in the y pipe im more then positive we can fix this early hp peak and fix the power loss
THE CONVERTER SWAP WAS DEF A BIG CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM. i bet if i was able to get a few more test runs i could of improved my 11.5 timeslip. im just glad were seeing progress in the right direction.cant wait to launch this bad boy off the tbrake during a test and tune. this is my first stall converter so i was still learning how to launch off the footbrake. I entered a footbrake class so i was unable to use the trans brake.
so plan is fix intake and exhaust flow and more then confident with some testing i will be able to dip into the 10's on motor.. THEN ITS TIME TO DIAL IN THE NITROUS AND SHOOT FOR 9'S
also i think im going to go to a 4.30 gear . that should really wake this car up as well as tighten up the converter a tad bit..
Last edited by bnastystuntz; 07-08-2018 at 02:45 PM.
Good deal. You ever run it on the 150 shot before? I run a NX wet kit on a 150 shot as well. You have the shark nozzle setup?
i have the shark nozzle with the 150 jets in it. i want to get the car dialed in on motor before i start adding the juice.... i want to see a 10.9xx pass n/a
i have the shark nozzle with the 150 jets in it. i want to get the car dialed in on motor before i start adding the juice.... i want to see a 10.9xx pass n/a
What's the raceweight? 10.9 at full weight n/a would be pretty damn good for a basic HCI LS1
What gears are in it now? I wouldn't put 4.30's in it if your planning on spraying through the 1/4. I also have a fit converter and I can't make it through the 1/4 on 28's spraying a 150 with my 4.11's
What's the raceweight? 10.9 at full weight n/a would be pretty damn good for a basic HCI LS1
3569 with me in it... still got some more wieght reduction to do.. its getting a cage and lexan windshield in oct . i still got alot of things i can do to get the wieght down. including me goin on a diet lmao
Last edited by bnastystuntz; 07-08-2018 at 05:33 PM.
What gears are in it now? I wouldn't put 4.30's in it if your planning on spraying through the 1/4. I also have a fit converter and I can't make it through the 1/4 on 28's spraying a 150 with my 4.11's
3;73... im really not wanting to spray it that much considering the 8 dollars/lb..this setup is going to be mostly n/a with occasional run s on the spray... on the dyno at 6900 rpm i was at 156 mph.... u dont think il have enough gear with the 4.30 on spray... i mean im sure i can spin this motor to 7200 with some arp 2000 rod bolts.....
Last edited by bnastystuntz; 07-08-2018 at 05:36 PM.
Nice improvement with the new converter. Your plans on the intake & exhaust work also sounds good. I actually thought the same as Jtm on the 150 shot. If the converter may be a bit loose? The 4:30 gear maybe too much? Have to try it out.
Nice improvement with the new converter. Your plans on the intake & exhaust work also sounds good. I actually thought the same as Jtm on the 150 shot. If the converter may be a bit loose? The 4:30 gear maybe too much? Have to try it out.
well i still got a ways before i do the gear swap. just something to think about u know.. il have a better idea of what gear im goin to run once i make a few passes on the spray.... not too sure how the high stall and spray are going to work.... only thing you can do to find out is send it and like TRUMP says " We'll C WHAT HAPPENS" LOL... goin to take it step by step.. get car running good on motor, then dial in the spray, then adjust converter if needed and then swap gear if things go good and looks like i willl have gear..
well i still got a ways before i do the gear swap. just something to think about u know.. il have a better idea of what gear im goin to run once i make a few passes on the spray.... not too sure how the high stall and spray are going to work.... only thing you can do to find out is send it and like TRUMP says " We'll C WHAT HAPPENS" LOL... goin to take it step by step.. get car running good on motor, then dial in the spray, then adjust converter if needed and then swap gear if things go good and looks like i willl have gear..
That thing should hit really hard on a 150 shot, 5k stall and 4.30 gear. Mine with a M6 and 4.10's is pretty crazy on a 150 shot. On a 26" tire I'm done at about 127-129 at 7 grand
Congrats on the new numbers and times! Imo, spray it. Leave gears as is. Going to a higher numeric gear will most likely tighten your converter further. Being you are already at 1.5% slip (that's what you indicated in the post) which is on the too tight side. I would shoot for 5-8% slip at most through the traps. Staying NA, I might loosen it some and do the 4.30s.
Congrats on the new numbers and times! Imo, spray it. Leave gears as is. Going to a higher numeric gear will most likely tighten your converter further. Being you are already at 1.5% slip (that's what you indicated in the post) which is on the too tight side. I would shoot for 5-8% slip at most through the traps. Staying NA, I might loosen it some and do the 4.30s.
well converter flashes to 5200 and my peak tq is at 5k so thought the higher gear might help get it closer to my peak tq.. im no expert on tq converters tho so im just assuming ...i couldnt tell if i crossed the traps at 5900 or 6000 so i went with 5900 to calc the converter slip. 5k stall and it might be too tight??? is that even possible...
how much slip do people usually c with the nos
Last edited by bnastystuntz; 07-08-2018 at 07:42 PM.
3;73... im really not wanting to spray it that much considering the 8 dollars/lb..this setup is going to be mostly n/a with occasional run s on the spray... on the dyno at 6900 rpm i was at 156 mph.... u dont think il have enough gear with the 4.30 on spray... i mean im sure i can spin this motor to 7200 with some arp 2000 rod bolts.....
You may be fine. I'm just saying I cross the stripe on the 7k limiter, and nitrous turns off at 6800...the trap was 133.
Looks like Strip performance improvement was due better 60' time due to going to "Higher Stall" converter, Vs the your old one. That Stall improvement is a given.
Now that you have seen that improvement why not remove the "Y" pipe, check tune, then go to the track again to see if ET improves by doing that, before making any more changes. 1 step at a time, rather than multiples so you can see how each changes effects performance.
What that would do is help both you and others with similar problems, so as to avoid them.
I'm not a real drag racer, but due to background back when I was younger (74 yrs old now), know better than to do what I did on my current car build. It was build for "Looks/Show" not go, so to fit a looks intake over a performance one I choked down intake air form the needed 4.0"s of air to at best 3 1/2" but most likely 3.0" - 3 1/4", reducing HP of GM's 480 HP LS3 Hot Cam engine, to 360 HP on a Mustang Dyno/ 407 on a Dyno Jet. Hot cam engine is a TQ engine. Makes peak crank 480 HP at 5800 RPM.
Because of the way car's body was modified car is grossly overweight. With me an about 4 gallons of fuel race weight is about the same as you and your car, 3565 LB. Because I drive and race with same 300 TW 28.3" tires, to keep from spinning tires so badly on street at 45 mph in 4th gear, chassis is setup is adjustment is 48% on Front, 52% on rear. At strip can't even spin the rear tires coming off the line to help 60' time, so it' in the 1.97 - 2.09 sec range depending on track and conditions (Note: only run 3 major 1/4 mi tracks within 4 hours drive for me.)
Notice in below graph how TQ ramps up then peaks and start to fall due in my case to lack of enough intake air to support engines needs.
Reminds me of your graph...
Also there is a lack of 4.0" of straight air flow before MAF sensor, that's almost sitting at throttle body plate. Not good for power or tuning.
Engine Looks got me best engine award at 2013 LS Fest.
Trans shifting, Listen for RPM lost Vs standard auto trans shifts lost between shifts. This is why car has MPH times of 117-120 MPH. Only need to be in 5700-5800 RPM to turn those MPH. Car Traps in 4th gear. It's not because car has more power potential than ET shows, it's just gearing and ability of trans and converter to complete shifts quickly.
I know what I do wrong before I do it. 1/4 mile ET/MPH was not considered when building car. Below car I'm building, is. Build to meet all the safety requirements of NHRA/IHRA so I do not get blacked flagged at their Major events.
Plan for it was to get in 10's with 400 or less HP, but because I want engine to look more custom car wise, Tony Mamo's Stealth MSD Air Force manifold ruined that as He would only sale it to me Ported...LOL Had an LS7 Chocked down to 399 HP. Just hoped all I needed from it was it's ability to it's ability to turn 6500+RPMs so I could make better use of builds gearing, with TCI 6x trans and 3.50 rear gear ratio.
Note: The reason my current car can run in 11s with at 117 to 120 MP is due to Trans, Rear gear and triple disc converter with very efficient STR ratio yet with almost stock stall RPMs. Use Gearing and TQ to move the cars weight like Tractor Trailer trucks do. There is almost no RPM lost between shifts like you get with other automatic Trans, high stalled converters. Millie second shifts so engine doesn't have so many RPM to pull back too for Trap MPH. Hurts 60's foot but I could improve that by shifting weight off rear to front for more like 49%-51% so rear tires could spin some before hooking up. Dead hook as is.
Goal weight on below car is 2800 - 2900 LBS curb weight Vs Original car's listed curb weight of 3119 LBS. Ls engine swap to a stock car reduces weight to 2800-2816 lbs even with a GM 6L80 trans.
Hoped to get in 10s just like you, just with a difference approach, where you are going with HP to Weight, I'm trying to do it with Weight to HP.
Results should be the about the same....
Last edited by poorhousenext; 07-09-2018 at 10:47 AM.
07-08-2018, 01:53 PM
UPDATE on my dissapointed dyno results 
